Cptkrell From United States of America, joined Sep 2001, 2606 posts, RR: 13 Reply 2, posted (10 years 3 days 13 hours ago) and read 3805 times:
Dear SwissA330; sorry for the late reply. I am assuming (maybe wrongly?) that this project may be one of your early ventures into a model so large. If you are committed to this endeavor, I might suggest that you also purchase or borrow one of the commercially available, smaller scale, prebuilt examples of the aircraft to three dimensionally assist you in interpreting the measurements and drawings mentioned above by DC10 Levo.
Also, modern airliners typically have very smooth, finished surfaces. Balsa by nature is pretty easy to work with, especially in the larger 1:50 scale you are addressing, however, it is also very difficult to seal and finish-coat to an endurable "class-a" surface I think you would desire. I would suggest you inquire of local patternmaker and tooling supply shops in your area about the types of lightweight structural modeling foam (available in blocks of varying sizes, densities, etc) available for your project. The three dimensional surface development should progress a bit easier than using balsa, and after you are satisfied with your model shapes, a couple of applications of primer-surfacer and maybe a bit of spot/filler and putty will get you in the position to think about final paint, livery, etc. Structural modeling foam is quite stable and will not eventually telegraph surface deviations so common in balsa and even in properly cured mahogany. Furthermore, even thin parts such as wings and fins will not warp as wood will. Abscence of abuse, these items should remain relatively sound.
There is, of course, the option of using epoxy or polyester reinforced fiber, however, I personally feel that is quite a bit more labor intensive irrespective of whether you develop and cast a mold from a master model or simple coat a "core" model.
The professionals you talk to regarding these modeling supplies and finishes will
also supply you with health/safety guidelines...take their recommendations seriously, as even though working with such materials is not difficult, there are, indeed, (mostly) inhalation precautions that should be respected. Kind regards...Jack
L-188 From United States of America, joined Jul 1999, 29367 posts, RR: 61 Reply 4, posted (9 years 12 months 4 days 21 hours ago) and read 3771 times:
the types of lightweight structural modeling foam (available in blocks of varying sizes, densities, etc
I don't know if they sell that blue insulation foam over there like they do in the states, but that is pretty easy to work with. You glue them together and then whittle it down. You can also hot wire the stuff.
Common name for the stuff here is Blueboard, go into any home improvement store here and they will know exactly what you are talking about.
OBAMA-WORST PRESIDENT EVER....Even SKOORB would be better.
Cptkrell From United States of America, joined Sep 2001, 2606 posts, RR: 13 Reply 5, posted (9 years 12 months 4 days 18 hours ago) and read 3763 times:
I am thinking that the blue foam that L188 refered to might not be compatable with laquer-based fillers, paints, etc., if you plan on using such (the foam may "melt"). However, it is relatively inexpensive and a simple trial experiment with this material would be a good idea.
The modeling foam I referred to is a very dense, closed cell material that I found compatible with any and all other finishing materials. If you can't find it, or you have success with the blue foam L188 talked of, I believe enamels, epoxies and water base acrylics will give you a good finish if laquers cannot be used. Let us know how your project progresses! Kind regards...Jack