Mr Spaceman From Canada, joined Mar 2001, 2787 posts, RR: 9 Posted (9 years 10 months 3 weeks 5 days 10 hours ago) and read 22479 times:
Last night I was glueing on the front windscreen for an F4J Phantom II model that I've almost finished and have done a pretty good job on. It's a 1:48 scale.
Unfortunately I accidently got a small spot of glue on the lower right section of the front windscreen. I was using a toothpick to carefully apply the glue (obviously not carefully enough ) and somehow managed to make this mistake.
So, if anyone has any ideas, or you know of a product that I can use to safely remove this spot of glue which is about 3 square milimeters big, I'd really appreciate it.
I realize that I might be screwed here, and just have to pretend it's a birdstrike!
Doug_Or From United States of America, joined Mar 2000, 3348 posts, RR: 3
Reply 1, posted (9 years 10 months 3 weeks 5 days 8 hours ago) and read 22452 times:
welllllllll, the plastic glue chemicaly alters the plastic to bond pieces together. For clear plastic this means it will get cloudy/translucent, so it doesn't look good. if it was just a little bit it may be possible to sand and polish the blemish away. IF at all possible, a replacment part will probably be your best bet.
DeltaMD11 From United States of America, joined Dec 2002, 1701 posts, RR: 36
Reply 2, posted (9 years 10 months 3 weeks 5 days 6 hours ago) and read 22447 times:
Lightly sand the affected area, and dip the area in floor polish (thats the best case scenario---I frequently lightly sand entire clear pieces and dip them in floor polish so that they come out like real clear glass). For future reference--don't use modeling glue (aka plastic cement) to glue clear parts on. Use wood glue. Wood glue dries clear and has no effect on clear parts.
Too often we ... enjoy the comfort of opinion without the discomfort of thought. - John Fitzgerald Kennedy
Mr Spaceman From Canada, joined Mar 2001, 2787 posts, RR: 9
Reply 3, posted (9 years 10 months 3 weeks 5 days 5 hours ago) and read 22444 times:
OK, Thank You very much for your recomendations & for the tip about using wood glue in the future instead of the usual plastic cement glue when working with clear parts. I will definetely start using wood because any mistakes won't be permanent and I'll be glueing a lot of windows into an Eastern Airlines L-1011 really soon.
I'll try the sanding technique and hope for the best as it will be the first time I've ever had to sand a clear part. Also, I guess I'll need to apply the floor polish with a brush instead of just dipping the area because when I glued the windscreen on, it was already painted.
I forgot to add that I'll practice first on some scrap clear parts and that if all fails - which it shouldn't, I'm pretty detailed - I do have another windscreen that I was already thinking of using originally, and it is smoked in colour.
Backfire From Germany, joined Oct 2006, 0 posts, RR: 0
Reply 6, posted (9 years 10 months 3 weeks 4 days 20 hours ago) and read 22425 times:
It's a little extreme but you might want to consider painting the clear plastic - although windows are transparent, there are a lot of models around (particularly snap-fit) which do not have transparent windows; the grey/black paintwork simply gives the illusion of transparency.
Love the wood-glue and floor-polish suggestions, though. That'll help me in future.
JMChladek From United States of America, joined Aug 2003, 331 posts, RR: 0
Reply 8, posted (9 years 10 months 3 weeks 3 days 4 hours ago) and read 22408 times:
BTW, the floor polish in question is a product called Future in the US. It is an acrylic floor polish. In other countries, it is known by other names, such as Johnson's Kleer, but it is essentially the same product. I know many modelers that use the stuff for clearcoating models with an airbrush, but I just use it for dipping canopies and use other products for clearcoating since Future can be removed by cleaners with ammonia in them, such as Windex (keep windex handy to strip the Future off if you make a mistake in applying it).
For sanding the area out, I start with about 320 grit and then go with progressively finer grits to bring back the luster before Future coating the part. The highest that 3M sandpapers go is 600 grit, but many shops that carry model cars also carry a set of polishing cloths that start at about 1200 grit and go up to 14000 grit. These were originally intended for polishing optics, but they work great for polishing paintjobs (which car modelers use them for) and polishing canopies. If you don't have access to those, then after polishing the area with 600 grit, use some toothpaste as the final plastic polish before dipping the part in Future.
BTW, the clear side windows found on many 1/144 airliner kits are pretty thick and a lot of modelers I know either fill the windows completely and use aftermarket window decals or they fill the window ports with a product called Microscale Krystal Klear (no relation to Future). This is a white glue product that can be stretched over small open areas with a toothpick and when it dries it takes on the appearance of a window. If it doesn't work, it can be stripped off easily and done again. Most every good hobby shop in North America (and some in Europe) tends to stock this product and it also works well for attaching canopies as it is essentially a white glue product.
For models that are 1/100 and larger scale, clear windows look better then decals.