Pascuzzi From United States of America, joined Dec 1999, 20 posts, RR: 0
Reply 1, posted (14 years 2 months 3 weeks 3 days 2 hours ago) and read 1710 times:
Just wanted to reply to your posting on foils. Though some modellers claim that they can cleanly and realistically apply foils to very odd compound curves, I don't believe this to be the case at all, as the foil is highly delicate and rips easily when burnished. So, I only use it in very limited quantities. For example, I apply it to leading edge slats by cutting it w/ a very sharp xacto knife, a little larger than the area to be covered. Then, I carefully lie it down flat at one end of where it is going, then gradually push it down (I am using self-adhesive foils, called Bare Metal Foils), then burnish it w/ a burnishing tool or blunt toothpick, and very carefully so to avoid rips! Then, carefully cut the surrounding foil that will be discarded (i.e. using the groove that makes the slat on the wing). I also have used it on the inner metal ring of the #2 MD11 engine on the Hasegawa kit (see www.internetmodeller.com for my 1/200 MD11 AA kit).
As far as doing an entire kit in foil, honestly, I would forget it. There is no way to avoid seams and the unrealistic shine, which really should be covered w/ a clear coat after decalling to create a realistic look. For the entire kit, I use a mix of SnJ powders and Floquil Bright Silver, which produces a superb metallic finish. Once covered w/ a polyeurethane coat it resembles a true oxidized surface.
Oxygen From Hong Kong, joined Sep 1999, 674 posts, RR: 1
Reply 2, posted (14 years 2 months 2 weeks 5 days 10 hours ago) and read 1692 times:
Thank you very much.
But the problem with me is that the back side ( which is black in colour) doesn't stick, while the silver side sticks, resulting a black finish. Is anything needed to get rid of the black colour, such as some liquid or sand paper?