JeffM From United States of America, joined May 2005, 3266 posts, RR: 52 Reply 4, posted (10 years 1 month 4 days 13 hours ago) and read 2348 times:
You also need to figure in your distance from the a/c and the focal length of the lens, as those two factors combined along with your aperature will determine the area in focus. So, f8 might be good, or it might not depending on the above.
Lower F number (i.e. f2.8) = larger opening = Less in focus = faster shutter possible.
Higher F number (i.e. f22) = smaller opening = more in focus = slower shutter more likely.
Boieng747-400 From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 5, posted (10 years 1 month 4 days 11 hours ago) and read 2321 times:
I try to use both from time to time and have to admit I prefer using aperture. I usually try to shoot at f/8-10 in good weather. In sloppy weather I either shoot at f/4 or try to use shutter priority. I've also recently started to try out P which is working pretty well. I guess it's really up to your own preference.
I'm sure Colin K. Work will be posting on this thread, so a little question I have for him: why do you shoot sometimes around f/14-16?
Ckw From UK - England, joined Aug 2010, 660 posts, RR: 17 Reply 6, posted (10 years 1 month 4 days 10 hours ago) and read 2307 times:
Shutter speed & aperture can be considered both from a technical and aesthetic point of view. The "best" mode is the one that gives you the result you want
Some general points: most lenses perform at their best (sharpest, least distortion) at around f8 - f11. With a cheap lens, the difference between f8 and, say f4, can be remarkable. More expensive lenses tend to have a more consistent performance, so this need not be such a consideration. Note that some people are under the impression that if f8 is good, f16 is better. Not so - lens performance tends to drop off a bit beyond f11.
DOF is not a "quality" issue - its an aesthetic one. You decide how far you want the zone of acceptable sharpness to extend behind and in front of the subject.
Shutter speed: you need to make sure you can hold the camera still enough to get a crisp image - Anders' rule of thumb is a good guide, but again, there is an aesthetic element - if you want motion blur, you will have to select a suitable shutter speed to acheive this.
Personally, I tend to shoot TV mode for moving subjects, AV mode for static. The reason is mostly aesthetic - I like a bit of motion in my pics (whirling props, motion-blurred background), so on any "action" pic, I will select the slowest shutter speed I think I can handle and let the aperture fall where it may - this is one of the reasons I invested in L lenses ... I know they will produce good results wide open or at f22.
For static stuff, shutter speed doesn't much matter (within reason) so here I will select AV mode to ensure I have control of my DoF - I may for instance want to shoot from a wingtip and get the whole aircraft sharp, or I may want to put a messy background out of focus.
why do you shoot sometimes around f/14-16?
This would normally be in the case of an action shot - because I've chosen a slow shutter speed to get some motion blur, the aperture will tend to be quite high in decent light.
A note on P mode - while this mode will usually find a balance between shutter and aperture which will ensure a technically good result, basically you're handing creative control over to the camera. For instance, P mode deosn't know you are panning a shot to blur the background, and will probably select a higher shutter speed than you would want to use for the effect.
Zoomer From Netherlands, joined Dec 2000, 211 posts, RR: 0 Reply 7, posted (10 years 1 month 3 days 22 hours ago) and read 2233 times:
Using a Nikon 75-300mm lens, I tend to favour f8-f11 with a minimum Speed of 100 for landing shots. Below that I put the camera away. Of course, with stationary aircraft I'll drop the speed right down if light is poor but still aim for f8 minimum. Anything below and I don't bother to shoot.
Dazultra From United Kingdom, joined Nov 2003, 689 posts, RR: 45 Reply 9, posted (10 years 1 month 3 days 9 hours ago) and read 2207 times:
i usually use the M setting and play with the shutter and aperture using the thumb and top mounted wheels. if u watch the exposure meter in the viewfinder whilst aiming at what u want to shoot and adjust as neccessary (until the meter is reasonably in the middle) i find its ok. also iso speed is an important thing to watch - iso 400 and higher u will see noticable noise on the images.
Ckw From UK - England, joined Aug 2010, 660 posts, RR: 17 Reply 10, posted (10 years 1 month 3 days 8 hours ago) and read 2198 times:
i usually use the M setting and play with the shutter and aperture using the thumb and top mounted wheels
A perfectly reasonable approach, and one many of us older photographers will find familiar. Total control. The only down side is that automated systems can respond faster to changes in light - for example, an AA 777 catching the sun just as you press the shutter.
I do all my flash shots on manual as my preferred settings then determine how much light the flash should provide.