Just_Plane_Mad From New Zealand, joined Mar 2002, 22 posts, RR: 0 Posted (9 years 4 months 1 week 3 days 5 hours ago) and read 1870 times:
Hi guys just not long bought me a Canon Eos 300D DSLR was wondering and am interested in motion blur and how to get good motion blur at that , is anyone able to assist me with some tips at all ?
Like these? Just set the shutter to somewhere near 1/25th of a second and follow the subject with a nice smooth pan. Should come out nice with a bit of practice. For best results do this at dawn/dusk. That gives the best images.
LGW From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 3, posted (9 years 4 months 1 week 3 days 5 hours ago) and read 1823 times:
As I don't have to humor of William I think I shall answer a little differently.
Basically when panning an aircraft for example coming into land, set the camera to Tv mode and lower the shutter speed to as low as you think you can physically coupe with and still get a good image.
Then pan the aircraft well, hold the camera very steady, remembering to contunie to pan after the shot for a bit to make sure you dont mees the shot up and then view the resuls on your LCD.
Its a little trial and error to start with but its not too hard once you get better at it.
Ckw From UK - England, joined Aug 2010, 530 posts, RR: 18 Reply 4, posted (9 years 4 months 1 week 3 days 4 hours ago) and read 1812 times:
As above, but just to emphasise that the secret is a smooth motion before, during and after shutter release. Most people seem to instinctively freeze the camera when they press the shutter, or jerk the camera up/down a little. If you've ever played golf, its a little similar - you need to pan through the shutter release like you're supposed to swing through the golf ball.
Make sure the plane it not coming at you as the angle of the plane changes while the shutter is open. The nose or tail will go blurry, as they have a different relative speed towards the camera. Side-on works the best, as the angle of the plane hardly changes during the shot. Keep the motion fluent as Colin said and use a slow shutterspeed (<1/125th).
Rotor1 From Tajikistan, joined Mar 2003, 230 posts, RR: 3 Reply 6, posted (9 years 4 months 1 week 2 days 10 hours ago) and read 1695 times:
They all make it sound so easy... and therein forget the most important step...
Set camera to drive mode. Hold down the shutter button and take lots and lots and lots and lots of pictures. If you take at least 1,000 photos, you should have 1-2 good ones
I've found good pan-action hovers around 1/125 to 1/80th. Leave the lens as wide (backed out) as you can and still get the shot, which helps decrease blur from camera shake.
The best I've done has been 1/80th at about 400mm... it was a miracle the shot came out as well as it did:
Ckw From UK - England, joined Aug 2010, 530 posts, RR: 18 Reply 7, posted (9 years 4 months 1 week 2 days 8 hours ago) and read 1683 times:
Hold down the shutter button and take lots and lots and lots and lots of pictures
Something I've never done - an article I read a long time ago prejudiced me (probably irrationally ) against motor drives. It put forward the arguement that even if you shot 10 frames/sec at, say, 1/100th, you still only have a 1 in 10 chance of catching the critical moment. For example, on an aircraft landing, relying on continous drive makes capturing the exact moment those tires touch the tarmac pretty remote.
Of course most aircraft shots are not quite so time critical, and Mike's advice makes perfect sense - I sometimes wonder after the fact why I didn't keep my finger on the shutter. Old habits die hard.
I set the speed to 1/80th and held the camera as steady as possible. I had to shoot 6 frames before getting a decent shot. And yes, the camera used was the EOS300D.
Kempa From Brazil, joined Aug 2003, 372 posts, RR: 0 Reply 10, posted (9 years 4 months 1 week 2 days 4 hours ago) and read 1631 times:
Do not use the camera LCD display. Use the eye viewer, and follow the plane with your head and your body. Keep the camera on drive and the button pressed. Do not use autofocus or any other automatic function, manually set the focus to the distance you want to shoot. You don't want your camera to delay your shots because it is metering the shots before the shutter starts operating.
Ckw From UK - England, joined Aug 2010, 530 posts, RR: 18 Reply 11, posted (9 years 4 months 1 week 2 days 3 hours ago) and read 1623 times:
Kempa, you've probably managed to highlight in a single paragraph the key differences between shooting with a DSLR and a digicam.
In the case of the 300D as used by Will (and other DSLRs), you don't have the option of using an LCD to compose and shoot - the point of the SLR design being to look through the lens itself via the viewfinder. As far as metering goes, this is performed continously and instantaneously right up to the moment the shutter opens (unless of course you choose to lock the exposure) - this can be a real plus in continuous shooting, particularly with intermittent sun.
Again with AF - as far as I know, all DSLRs have a servo mode which allows moving objects to be continuously tracked by the AF system right up to the point of the shutter opening.
Certainly your comments are useful and valid for digicams - but do perhaps illustrate what DSLR users are paying for
Mia777 From United States of America, joined Sep 2002, 1165 posts, RR: 6 Reply 13, posted (9 years 4 months 1 week 1 day 23 hours ago) and read 1559 times:
Something I've never done - an article I read a long time ago prejudiced me (probably irrationally ) against motor drives. It put forward the arguement that even if you shot 10 frames/sec at, say, 1/100th, you still only have a 1 in 10 chance of catching the critical moment. For example, on an aircraft landing, relying on continous drive makes capturing the exact moment those tires touch the tarmac pretty remote.
Funny you mention that. I read the same thing in a book yesterday and it basically said that many times the real action you want capture is in between each exposure and its better to stay away from continious mode. (I know that's exactly what you are saying). However wouldn't "pressing" cause slight camera shake which would potentially ruin the photo?
Moving your finger 0.5mm won't create very much shaking. Not more shaking than from an SLR mirror going up and down like crazy when keeping it pressed during the shoot...
Wietse From Netherlands, joined Oct 2001, 3809 posts, RR: 57 Reply 15, posted (9 years 4 months 1 week 1 day 22 hours ago) and read 1542 times:
I dont think he means the actual click, more the force your finger has on the shutter. When pushing it, you slightly tilt the body, so either be very carefull with your shutter, or fire a sequence to prevent this from happening.
IL76 From Netherlands, joined Jan 2004, 2235 posts, RR: 51 Reply 16, posted (9 years 4 months 1 week 1 day 22 hours ago) and read 1537 times:
Ok... I see. I haven't experienced that though. The shutter requires very little force and moving only the last 2 joints of the index finger... But, true, it is a point of attention with panning shots: Keep cool and click gently.
Maiznblu_757 From United States of America, joined Mar 2002, 5112 posts, RR: 52 Reply 17, posted (9 years 4 months 1 week 1 day 19 hours ago) and read 1513 times:
SHAMELESS PLUG ALERT!
I messed with the aperture for this shot. I cannot remember the settings right off, it was taken with my Minolta 700SI with Fuji Sensia film scanned with the Dimage Dual Scan II. I am going to work on a better scan, I have new software.. Anyways, just experiment.
Marco_polo From United States of America, joined Jul 2001, 324 posts, RR: 19 Reply 21, posted (9 years 4 months 1 week 1 day 8 hours ago) and read 1444 times:
Will:
Clovis and Paul Paulsen from LAX they both seems to be pro at motion blur images. Here are some of their sample works. You might want to shoot e-mail over their way just to get some detail from them. I believe they use TV mode (Shutter Piority Mode) and setting it between 1/60th to 1/125th of sec. Aperature setting are automatically calculate and set by the camera.
ExitRow From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 24, posted (9 years 4 months 1 week 13 hours ago) and read 1358 times:
Click for bigger version
A 3,000 lbs. Gitzo tripod helps a great deal too...
William
25 Paulinbna: In my experience with this like some else said before the best seem to come out better when you shoot from the side of the aircraft. Like this: The se
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I think I shall answer a little differently.
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) against motor drives. It put forward the arguement that even if you shot 10 frames/sec at, say, 1/100th, you still only have a 1 in 10 chance of catching the critical moment. For example, on an aircraft landing, relying on continous drive makes capturing the exact moment those tires touch the tarmac pretty remote. 
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