Cfalk From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 1, posted (12 years 7 months 3 weeks 22 hours ago) and read 2729 times:
It's a cool shot. Good job.
This looks like print film. Did you scan a negative or a print? What kind of film was it? Did you use the flatbed or the Minolta?
Last night I scanned a bunch of negatives, and I could not get them to look anywhere near as sharp as I can with slide film, is spite of the film being Royal Gold 100, which should be pretty fine. Maybe someone can tell us why (I use a Coolscan III).
Cfalk From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 4, posted (12 years 7 months 3 weeks 18 hours ago) and read 2700 times:
I previously used a Minolta Scan Duel, which I found returned somewhat grainy results like this.
Try this. Scan it so that you get a file 1800 or so across, sharpen, then resize it to around 1200 pixels across, sharpen again, and then do a final resize down to submission size, 950 or 1000 across. You might do a final sharpening again at the end.
I use Corel Photopaint 8, and find that resizing smooths out some details (including grain). Doing it like this might give better results.
Try it, and tell us how it worked.
Try some good, 100 ASA slide film. Fuji Sensia II and Provia are good, as is Kodak Elitechrome 100. You might be pleased with the results. I have no idea why negatives seem to give a harder time scanning.
BO__einG From Canada, joined Apr 2000, 2765 posts, RR: 19 Reply 6, posted (12 years 7 months 3 weeks 10 hours ago) and read 2654 times:
Nagavites are tough!
Slides I find are also Tough to scan at good quality.
Unfortuneatly I have many negatives that lookg good on pritns but opposite on scans.
prolly willl keep trying thou.
Expanding my global domination one spotter at a time..
Cfalk From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 9, posted (12 years 7 months 2 weeks 5 days 2 hours ago) and read 2598 times:
Fuju 400 Priva film? I hope it was Fuji 400 Provia Instead.
Without being able to see the slides, from your description it sounds to me that either your developer screwed up badly (most probable), your camera is letting some light in, or the film was messed up to begin with. Get an expert opinion if you can.
Do you have an automatic camera? or did you actually shoot every pic at 1/250 and f/8?
Ckw From UK - England, joined Aug 2010, 660 posts, RR: 17 Reply 12, posted (12 years 7 months 2 weeks 4 days 15 hours ago) and read 2580 times:
It seems to me that the nose of the aircraft isn't quite in focus - but I also think that the grain pattern on the side of the image is not as sharp as the rest either. I think it might be your scanner hasn't focused properly at that edge of the image - I know this is a real problem with Nikon scanner if the film has any curl at all.
What can you try?
1) if your scanner allows it, use a strip film holder to keep the negs absolutely flat.
2) if you can, adjust the focus point of the scanner to the nose of the aircraft
3) if all else fails, try scanning the neg upside down - I think the grain is sharper on the left hand margin of the image.
Fox1 From United Kingdom, joined Apr 2001, 126 posts, RR: 0 Reply 14, posted (12 years 7 months 2 weeks 3 days 13 hours ago) and read 2568 times:
A friend sent me this:
1) Using Photoshop open an image of your choice. Do whatever other
enhancements you will be doing first- colour correction, contrast and
brightness, rotation, and resizing.
2) Be sure the "Layers/Channels/Paths" window is open. If not,
choose "Show Channels" in the Photoshop "Windows" menu.
3) Now go into "Image" and choose "Mode" and change the mode of the
image to "Lab Color."
4) Back on the "Channels" tab. Select the "Lightness" channel by
clicking on it. The image should now appear as a grayscale image.
This is the channel we want to sharpen. The reason is that this
is the part of the image that contains the most detail. If you don't
believe it, click on the other two channels and see what is there.
They look quite blurry.
5) Be sure that the image is shown at 100% or larger. Magnify it
(zoom in) if necessary. (Magnifying glass on tool bar).
6) Apply the amount of Unsharp Mask that you feel looks correct (in
the "Filter/Sharpen/Unsharp Mask"). Start with 50% amount, 1 pixel
radius and threshold at 2 or 3. (Don't generally use radius above 2
pixels or you will start to get halos.) If 50% is too sharp, back
down. If not sharp enough, go up. It takes more for printed photos than for viewing on a monitor.
7) Now go back and convert the image to RGB.
That's it. Using this method you can sharpen images yet prevent
them from looking "radioactive" from excessive JPEG glow.
If it looks too sharp or not sharp enough, go to Edit and Undo and