Kindjordan From United States of America, joined Nov 2004, 59 posts, RR: 0 Reply 2, posted (8 years 7 months 1 week 4 days 17 hours ago) and read 3201 times:
Hi simon...thanks for the response......
first, I have a fuji 6 megapixel camera....so i dont know if you would consider that Hi-spec..but im certian its good enough to be able to take quality pictures (my camera skills are clearly in question).
I dont have a great lens on it..so theres usually movement when im taking my pictures. Im working on a telephoto lens for it right now.
I didnt think I was "wasting" the screeners time by sending in pictures like this...and hearing that makes me consider weather I will ever upload a picture to this site ever again. I have no intention of wasting anyones time here...I just love taking pictures of planes and furthermore would love them to be included in this database!.
The size of the picture that i uploaded was 1024x768....and that was resized from the 2142x..(i forget) which was the res that my 6mp picture came out.
I'm clearly a novice at taking great plane pictures...or pictures in general and Im seeking any real ADVICe i can get...thanks-Jordan
Airplanepics From United Kingdom, joined Jun 2003, 2726 posts, RR: 45 Reply 4, posted (8 years 7 months 1 week 4 days 17 hours ago) and read 3193 times:
I didn't mean to sound harsh.
Yes, ive just realised it was 1024x768.......Im on the laptop at the moment which has a lower resoloution, so I got confused. Sorry.
Regarding screeners time, Im not saying that you should stop uploading, im just advising you to ask other photographers first to get there opinion and to show you how to better your pictures and editing. We all started in the same boat, and know how it feels. We don't bite - well, some of them do!
Your camera - what model is it, im sure it would take some nice photos. It's just about getting the right settings, and the right editing.
Manzoori From UK - England, joined Sep 2002, 1516 posts, RR: 37 Reply 5, posted (8 years 7 months 1 week 4 days 17 hours ago) and read 3174 times:
The linked image is 1600x 1217 on my computer... strange!
Now then, to the camera, yes it's a 6mp Fuji but which one? Is it by any chance an S602 / S7000 type model?
What Simon meant by wasting screeners time is that rather than upload and have it rejected, if your new to this stuff then why not take your shot, make your edit and then upload it to a webspace and link it here so that we can take a look and critique it for you before you put it into the queue.
Here are a couple of shots of the same type, same colours that have been accepted... always useful to see what has been accepted and then try to understand what the differences are and what you'll need to do to get the acceptance for your images.
Kindjordan From United States of America, joined Nov 2004, 59 posts, RR: 0 Reply 6, posted (8 years 7 months 1 week 4 days 16 hours ago) and read 3138 times:
Well i want to thank everyone for your replys. I definilty feel more informed now and will try different methods for getting a better photos.
Simon....no offense taken at all...and i apreicate you clearin it up!...i just was trying to make sure that i wasnt sooo horrible of a photographer that i wasnt welcomed here due to quality.
Erwin, I've had photoshop for years...and im pretty good at using it...although i dont know how to make my cruddy pic look anet quality!!.......and I think your right...im so focused on getting the planes coming in on final, im probally selling my self short cause alli have right now is 10x zoom..which i belivie is something like 55mm.??? I will try taking shots of DORMANT aircraft....although clearly not as exciting
Very werid REZ ....I definilty uploaded that pic at the 1024 rez...but for some reason, i think your right...its really big. I will have to look into it.
I do own the fuji7000. I bought it cause i thought camera wise it would be hight quality enough for me to get some shots on anet....now i have towork on my quality!
Im thinking I need to take a photograhy class....Id really love to understand my camera modes and when and why to use them........keep the advise rollin!-J
Kindjordan From United States of America, joined Nov 2004, 59 posts, RR: 0 Reply 8, posted (8 years 7 months 1 week 4 days 15 hours ago) and read 3120 times:
Well its my love for planes.....and this website thats reintrouduced my interest for photography...but you might have took it wrong. I photograph for myself! I just want everyone to be able to share this with me!
LHRSIMON From United Kingdom, joined Apr 2002, 1342 posts, RR: 25 Reply 12, posted (8 years 7 months 1 week 4 days 1 hour ago) and read 3018 times:
Point 1 : Right first of all lets get one thing straight. The Fuji S7000 is good enough to get A.Net quality photo's. Trust me, i have currently 224 photo's accepted this year and they are all from the S7000.
Point 2 : The S7000 is not a DSLR so you realy do need to have post edit software inplace to kick the photo's up to A.Net level. I use photoshop 7.0. You will find it almost impossible to get a photo accepted into A.Net with a S7000 unless you do some work to it.
Point 3 : The best thing you have done is come here for help. This is what i did 8 months ago. The people here are very helpfull and will improve your photo's no end. They can be critical but i think the saying is "cruel to be kind".
Just a couple of examples to prove that the S7000 does cut it and im not talking bs
Kindjordan From United States of America, joined Nov 2004, 59 posts, RR: 0 Reply 13, posted (8 years 7 months 1 week 3 days 22 hours ago) and read 2984 times:
Hi Simon...thanks for the advice....I do apreicate it. My big question now lies with photoshop. I own PS version 7.0 and have used this program for many years now....mostly for cropping and resizing. Could you give me an idea what finishing processes i need to apply to an image (not cropping) that would make a photo acceptable?. Or is it just cropping?.....most people here speak of photoshop like theres an "ANET FILTER"....haa...that would be great huh?...again any advice would be apreicated-J
Sulman From United States of America, joined Mar 2004, 2029 posts, RR: 35 Reply 14, posted (8 years 7 months 1 week 3 days 21 hours ago) and read 2974 times:
1) Open image.
2) Rotate if unlevel (usually is!)
3) Crop to 1024 x 680, I use 768 tall if the composition warrants it.
4) Adjust levels* by hand, each channel - Red, green, and blue. You can use the 'master' or 'luminosity' channel, and it does work as well, but some images respond better to adjusting each channel at a time.
5) Adjust curves. In PS elements this function is replaced by an applet that uses buttons and an incremental slider. Both are very, very powerful tools, and personally as important to me as....
6)...Sharpening**. Hardest of all to get used to. Canon (in one source) recommend 300% and a radius of 0.3 as a 'starting point'. Try this on a well focused, non-blurry 1024x680 image, and you will get the jaggies, however at larger resolutions it is a great setting. Leave the radius as is, and play around with the percentage setting. Anything between 80 and 300 can work. Alternatively, if the image is good out of the camera, and you're at 1024 wide, try a radius of 0.2, and a percentage of 400-500. This results in very fine, surprisingly subtle detail sharpening and works very well.
None of this is set in stone. Alot of it has been acquired from experimentation, even more from friends, this forum, and even a screener or two have lent their expertise. At work I also sit opposite a graphic design class, and have picked up loads of little tricks.
*Learn the histogram. I won't go into detail here - use the help function in photoshop - it explains it well.
**USM works by creating a duplicate image in memory (you won't see it), and applying a gaussian blur to that duplicate. How much blurring is dictated by the 'radius' setting. It then compares the two images and, where it detects a difference in the brightness level of individual pixels at the same location in the images, PS treats this as an 'edge'. The 'percentage' setting exaggurates this difference, thus giving the illusion of sharpness.
Nubbins From Canada, joined Oct 2004, 26 posts, RR: 0 Reply 16, posted (8 years 7 months 1 week 3 days 20 hours ago) and read 2954 times:
Additionally, with respect to sharpening--picked up a very useful tip here: Sharpen incrementally, in layers. I've discovered, as I learn this game, that not every element of an aircraft benefits from equal amounts of sharpening.
Example: In shooting GA and bizjets, you often run into pain schemes that involve pinstriping. All things being equal, those thin stripes, closely spaced, were driving me nuts--they start showing jaggies before anything else does.
Layering makes it possible to sharpen (reg #, etc) to your desired objective, for the moment ignoring stripes. After, using the eraser tool at about 50%, you can carefully brush over the stripes--removing the jaggies to an acceptable level, etc.