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What Can I Do To Get My Photos Accepted  
User currently offlineKindjordan From United States of America, joined Nov 2004, 59 posts, RR: 0
Posted (9 years 5 months 1 week 22 hours ago) and read 4940 times:

Ive been trying despratly for some time to get my photos accepted to this database. I know the standards are WAYYY high. But with shots like this

http://www.airliners.net/procphotos/rejphoto.main?filename=Ba1461.jpg

do i ever even have a chance???

[Edited 2004-11-11 19:05:13]

16 replies: All unread, jump to last
 
User currently offlineAirplanepics From United Kingdom, joined Jun 2003, 2729 posts, RR: 42
Reply 1, posted (9 years 5 months 1 week 22 hours ago) and read 4927 times:

Hi there,

Firstly, why upload at such a large size - its obvious that you dont have a high spec camera - so if you do decide to upload, make sure it is at a smaller size, such as 1024*682.

The picture has a lot of grain in it. The picture also looks a bit blurry.

The picture is not centererd in the frame.

Before uploading in future, ask for assistance here - that way you wont be wasteing screeners time by uploading pictures like that. People in here will help you out as much as they can.

Simon Nicholls



Simon - London-Aviation.com
User currently offlineKindjordan From United States of America, joined Nov 2004, 59 posts, RR: 0
Reply 2, posted (9 years 5 months 1 week 21 hours ago) and read 4922 times:

Hi simon...thanks for the response......

first, I have a fuji 6 megapixel camera....so i dont know if you would consider that Hi-spec..but im certian its good enough to be able to take quality pictures (my camera skills are clearly in question).

I dont have a great lens on it..so theres usually movement when im taking my pictures. Im working on a telephoto lens for it right now.

I didnt think I was "wasting" the screeners time by sending in pictures like this...and hearing that makes me consider weather I will ever upload a picture to this site ever again. I have no intention of wasting anyones time here...I just love taking pictures of planes and furthermore would love them to be included in this database!.

The size of the picture that i uploaded was 1024x768....and that was resized from the 2142x..(i forget) which was the res that my 6mp picture came out.

I'm clearly a novice at taking great plane pictures...or pictures in general and Im seeking any real ADVICe i can get...thanks-Jordan


User currently offlineErwin972 From Netherlands, joined May 2004, 500 posts, RR: 45
Reply 3, posted (9 years 5 months 1 week 21 hours ago) and read 4915 times:


Jordan,

Some advice: start shooting some simple aircraft subjects, during daytime or morning, not fast moving, closeby, viewer terrace.

Second advice: invest some time and money in Photoshop to get some basic post-processing skills. You will need them to make your photos meet the a.net quality.

Third: compare your pictures with those already on the database.

Kind regards,
Erwin



My gear: Nikon, Sony, Red, Sachtler etc.
User currently offlineAirplanepics From United Kingdom, joined Jun 2003, 2729 posts, RR: 42
Reply 4, posted (9 years 5 months 1 week 21 hours ago) and read 4914 times:

Hi there,

I didn't mean to sound harsh.

Yes, ive just realised it was 1024x768.......Im on the laptop at the moment which has a lower resoloution, so I got confused. Sorry.

Regarding screeners time, Im not saying that you should stop uploading, im just advising you to ask other photographers first to get there opinion and to show you how to better your pictures and editing. We all started in the same boat, and know how it feels. We don't bite - well, some of them do!  Big grin

Your camera - what model is it, im sure it would take some nice photos. It's just about getting the right settings, and the right editing.

Again, im sorry for sounding harsh.
Simon



Simon - London-Aviation.com
User currently offlineManzoori From UK - England, joined Sep 2002, 1516 posts, RR: 34
Reply 5, posted (9 years 5 months 1 week 21 hours ago) and read 4895 times:

Jordan,

The linked image is 1600x 1217 on my computer... strange!

Now then, to the camera, yes it's a 6mp Fuji but which one? Is it by any chance an S602 / S7000 type model?

What Simon meant by wasting screeners time is that rather than upload and have it rejected, if your new to this stuff then why not take your shot, make your edit and then upload it to a webspace and link it here so that we can take a look and critique it for you before you put it into the queue.

Here are a couple of shots of the same type, same colours that have been accepted... always useful to see what has been accepted and then try to understand what the differences are and what you'll need to do to get the acceptance for your images.


View Large View Medium

Photo © Timothy Hannan
View Large View Medium

Photo © Andrew Conville



Hope that helps!

Cheers!

Rez
 Big thumbs up

[Edited 2004-11-11 19:49:29]


Flightlineimages DOT Com Photographer & Web Editor. RR Turbines Specialist
User currently offlineKindjordan From United States of America, joined Nov 2004, 59 posts, RR: 0
Reply 6, posted (9 years 5 months 1 week 20 hours ago) and read 4859 times:

Well i want to thank everyone for your replys. I definilty feel more informed now and will try different methods for getting a better photos.

Simon....no offense taken at all...and i apreicate you clearin it up!...i just was trying to make sure that i wasnt sooo horrible of a photographer that i wasnt welcomed here due to quality.

Erwin, I've had photoshop for years...and im pretty good at using it...although i dont know how to make my cruddy pic look anet quality!!.......and I think your right...im so focused on getting the planes coming in on final, im probally selling my self short cause alli have right now is 10x zoom..which i belivie is something like 55mm.??? I will try taking shots of DORMANT aircraft....although clearly not as exciting Big grin

Very werid REZ ....I definilty uploaded that pic at the 1024 rez...but for some reason, i think your right...its really big. I will have to look into it.
I do own the fuji7000. I bought it cause i thought camera wise it would be hight quality enough for me to get some shots on anet....now i have towork on my quality!

Im thinking I need to take a photograhy class....Id really love to understand my camera modes and when and why to use them........keep the advise rollin!-J





User currently offlineAirplanepics From United Kingdom, joined Jun 2003, 2729 posts, RR: 42
Reply 7, posted (9 years 5 months 1 week 20 hours ago) and read 4846 times:

I do own the fuji7000. I bought it cause i thought camera wise it would be hight quality enough for me to get some shots on anet....now i have towork on my quality!

First rule of photography, dont shoot for airliners.net, shoot for yourself!



Simon - London-Aviation.com
User currently offlineKindjordan From United States of America, joined Nov 2004, 59 posts, RR: 0
Reply 8, posted (9 years 5 months 1 week 20 hours ago) and read 4841 times:

Well its my love for planes.....and this website thats reintrouduced my interest for photography...but you might have took it wrong. I photograph for myself! I just want everyone to be able to share this with me!

User currently offlinePaulinbna From United States of America, joined Feb 2003, 1114 posts, RR: 5
Reply 9, posted (9 years 5 months 1 week 11 hours ago) and read 4786 times:
Support Airliners.net - become a First Class Member!

let me striaghtend some thing out 7x is 200MM so 10x is more then that it is late and I can't think right now.
Just thought I would let you know.



Canon 50D user; 100-400 MM L IS 10-22 MM, 60MM Macro
User currently offlineLeviticus From New Zealand, joined Oct 2007, 0 posts, RR: 0
Reply 10, posted (9 years 5 months 1 week 9 hours ago) and read 4771 times:

10x optical is actually equal to 380mm with a 35mm SLR camera.

User currently offlineCrank From Canada, joined May 2001, 1558 posts, RR: 2
Reply 11, posted (9 years 5 months 1 week 9 hours ago) and read 4771 times:

10x is actually the zoom range, could be 38-380mm or even 50-500mm.

User currently offlineLHRSIMON From United Kingdom, joined Apr 2002, 1343 posts, RR: 23
Reply 12, posted (9 years 5 months 1 week 5 hours ago) and read 4739 times:

Point 1 : Right first of all lets get one thing straight. The Fuji S7000 is good enough to get A.Net quality photo's. Trust me, i have currently 224 photo's accepted this year and they are all from the S7000.

Point 2 : The S7000 is not a DSLR so you realy do need to have post edit software inplace to kick the photo's up to A.Net level. I use photoshop 7.0. You will find it almost impossible to get a photo accepted into A.Net with a S7000 unless you do some work to it.

Point 3 : The best thing you have done is come here for help. This is what i did 8 months ago. The people here are very helpfull and will improve your photo's no end. They can be critical but i think the saying is "cruel to be kind".

Just a couple of examples to prove that the S7000 does cut it and im not talking bs  Smile


View Large View Medium
Click here for bigger photo!

Photo © Simon Curtis
View Large View Medium
Click here for bigger photo!

Photo © Simon Curtis



View Large View Medium
Click here for bigger photo!

Photo © Simon Curtis
View Large View Medium
Click here for bigger photo!

Photo © Simon Curtis



Good luck , and keep at it  Smile/happy/getting dizzy
Simon



Canon 1D Mk III,Canon 20D+17-40 L f4.0,70-200 L IS USM f2.8,400 L USM f5.6,135 mm L f2.0, 50 mm f1.8,1.4 x II extender
User currently offlineKindjordan From United States of America, joined Nov 2004, 59 posts, RR: 0
Reply 13, posted (9 years 5 months 1 week 2 hours ago) and read 4705 times:

Hi Simon...thanks for the advice....I do apreicate it. My big question now lies with photoshop. I own PS version 7.0 and have used this program for many years now....mostly for cropping and resizing. Could you give me an idea what finishing processes i need to apply to an image (not cropping) that would make a photo acceptable?. Or is it just cropping?.....most people here speak of photoshop like theres an "ANET FILTER"....haa...that would be great huh?...again any advice would be apreicated-J

User currently offlineSulman From United States of America, joined Mar 2004, 2035 posts, RR: 33
Reply 14, posted (9 years 5 months 1 week 1 hour ago) and read 4695 times:

1) Open image.
2) Rotate if unlevel (usually is!)
3) Crop to 1024 x 680, I use 768 tall if the composition warrants it.
4) Adjust levels* by hand, each channel - Red, green, and blue. You can use the 'master' or 'luminosity' channel, and it does work as well, but some images respond better to adjusting each channel at a time.
5) Adjust curves. In PS elements this function is replaced by an applet that uses buttons and an incremental slider. Both are very, very powerful tools, and personally as important to me as....
6)...Sharpening**. Hardest of all to get used to. Canon (in one source) recommend 300% and a radius of 0.3 as a 'starting point'. Try this on a well focused, non-blurry 1024x680 image, and you will get the jaggies, however at larger resolutions it is a great setting. Leave the radius as is, and play around with the percentage setting. Anything between 80 and 300 can work. Alternatively, if the image is good out of the camera, and you're at 1024 wide, try a radius of 0.2, and a percentage of 400-500. This results in very fine, surprisingly subtle detail sharpening and works very well.

None of this is set in stone. Alot of it has been acquired from experimentation, even more from friends, this forum, and even a screener or two have lent their expertise. At work I also sit opposite a graphic design class, and have picked up loads of little tricks.

Cheers


James

*Learn the histogram. I won't go into detail here - use the help function in photoshop - it explains it well.

**USM works by creating a duplicate image in memory (you won't see it), and applying a gaussian blur to that duplicate. How much blurring is dictated by the 'radius' setting. It then compares the two images and, where it detects a difference in the brightness level of individual pixels at the same location in the images, PS treats this as an 'edge'. The 'percentage' setting exaggurates this difference, thus giving the illusion of sharpness.

[Edited 2004-11-12 15:45:47]


It takes a big man to admit they are wrong, and I am not a big man.
User currently offlineLHRSIMON From United Kingdom, joined Apr 2002, 1343 posts, RR: 23
Reply 15, posted (9 years 5 months 1 week ago) and read 4666 times:

saved me the trouble.... Thanks James  Big thumbs up


Canon 1D Mk III,Canon 20D+17-40 L f4.0,70-200 L IS USM f2.8,400 L USM f5.6,135 mm L f2.0, 50 mm f1.8,1.4 x II extender
User currently offlineNubbins From Canada, joined Oct 2004, 26 posts, RR: 0
Reply 16, posted (9 years 5 months 1 week ago) and read 4675 times:

Additionally, with respect to sharpening--picked up a very useful tip here: Sharpen incrementally, in layers. I've discovered, as I learn this game, that not every element of an aircraft benefits from equal amounts of sharpening.

Example: In shooting GA and bizjets, you often run into pain schemes that involve pinstriping. All things being equal, those thin stripes, closely spaced, were driving me nuts--they start showing jaggies before anything else does.

Layering makes it possible to sharpen (reg #, etc) to your desired objective, for the moment ignoring stripes. After, using the eraser tool at about 50%, you can carefully brush over the stripes--removing the jaggies to an acceptable level, etc.

Layer everything!



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