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User currently offlineFelipe E. From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Posted (10 years 11 months 3 weeks ago) and read 762 times:

Hi I´m from Panama City, and I brought a few weeks ago a Canon 500N, Rebel in US.

I´m using a AGFA 200 and Kodak 200 what you guys recommend for Color prints?

Anyone have a Canon 500N? I´m planning to buy a Canon 75-300mm lens.. Do you think is a good idea?

Thanks,



8 replies: All unread, jump to last
 
User currently offlineJwenting From Netherlands, joined Apr 2001, 10213 posts, RR: 25
Reply 1, posted (10 years 11 months 3 weeks ago) and read 703 times:

For colour prints, get Fuji Superia 100 or 200 (depending on available light) or NPS 160 (great film, but pricy).
Better grain than Kodak or Agfa, and (IMO, but opinions differ) better colour balance (less emphasis on red, more balanced towards blue which I tend to like).


I wish I were flying
User currently offlinePlanenut From United Kingdom, joined Apr 2001, 107 posts, RR: 0
Reply 2, posted (10 years 11 months 3 weeks ago) and read 699 times:

I use Fuji Reala 100 and get some great results! I also use a 75-300mm lens that is just about perfect.

Steve.

GB

User currently offlineDutchAir From Netherlands, joined Oct 2000, 105 posts, RR: 27
Reply 3, posted (10 years 11 months 3 weeks ago) and read 693 times:

I had used the EOS 500n for almost three years. It’s a nice camera to start with. I have a Canon 75-300mm lens and I think it's a good range for aviation photography.
I also have a 28-80mm lens from Canon.

The film I use is Fuji Reala 100 ISO. It’s less grainy and gives really nice and sharp results.

Best regards,

Miguel Snoep



"People are assholes when flying"
User currently offlineCYKA From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 4, posted (10 years 11 months 2 weeks 6 days 19 hours ago) and read 678 times:

200-speed films are crap for this hobby. Instead use Fuji Reala(a most excelent print film), as others have suggested. Also instead of scanning prints, scan your negatives instead......the quality is higher.

User currently offlineSonic99 From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 5, posted (10 years 11 months 2 weeks 6 days 17 hours ago) and read 674 times:


CYKA,

Once you scan a colour negative, then what?
Any tips on colour conversion and the whole process? Seems scanning prints is the faster way to do it...

Sonic99

User currently offlineCYKA From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 6, posted (10 years 11 months 2 weeks 6 days 17 hours ago) and read 672 times:

I dont have a film scanner myself(can't afford one right now), I have the scannig done at the developers. I think that there's a command in the pull-down menu of the softwere that comes with the scanner that coverts the negative scan to a positive image in a matter of a mouse click. I think you can also do it with programs like Paint Shop.

User currently offlineJwenting From Netherlands, joined Apr 2001, 10213 posts, RR: 25
Reply 7, posted (10 years 11 months 2 weeks 6 days 16 hours ago) and read 661 times:

Good scanners should be able to do the conversion either in the Twain driver or in hardware (for the more expensive ones). Some may even be able to detect whether you are using slide or negative (pro devices can read DX coding, why shouldn't top amateur/semi-pro ones).

200 ASA are not crap for this hobby, they may not get your shots accepted as much here but they (at least the fine-grained Fuji) are great film.



I wish I were flying
User currently offlineCkw From UK - England, joined Aug 2010, 324 posts, RR: 19
Reply 8, posted (10 years 11 months 2 weeks 6 days 13 hours ago) and read 653 times:

Sonic99 - any decent film scanner will handle colour balance etc. for you - you can even set up profiles for particular types of film. Yes, scanning a print is faster (but not much!), but the quality is much better from film. The biggest plus is that you are working from the original - not a processed version. In many cases it is possible to improve significantly on the image produced by the photo-lab by scanning from film, esp. things like washed out skies or blocked out shadows.

Cheers,

Colin


Colin K. Work, Pixstel
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