ArmitageShanks From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Posted (9 years 2 months 2 weeks 2 days 4 hours ago) and read 8550 times:
I just got a Minolta X-370 with a 50mm f1.7 lens and I want to mess around with slide film. I really have no clue how it differs from regular print film. I was wondering if any of you can point me in the right direction where I can find some advice on what to do.
Of you slide shooters, what should I do to get the basics down? I don't want to do any aviation photography, btw.
MartinairYYZ From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 2, posted (9 years 2 months 2 weeks 2 days 3 hours ago) and read 8541 times:
Quoting N101AA (Reply 1): Then why post in an Aviation Photography forum? There are plenty of other places on the 'net to get photography advice...
I thought people int he photography forum had respect! Bah!
Weel Armitageshanks, the best slide film to really show off the colours is undoubtedly Fuji Velvia...... try it, or Fuji Provia out to get the most amazing colours (with correct exposure ofcourse) that you will see..... especially great for landscapes! Other than that, Kodak Ektachrome (spelling?) and Kodachrome are the best general-use colour slide films.... off to be dnow, but if you need more help,. just ask!
StealthZ From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 6, posted (9 years 2 months 2 weeks 1 day 20 hours ago) and read 8470 times:
Yes bracketing is important... wish I had done it more often when shooting slide film. Biggest thing to remember is it does not have the latitude of negative film... but when you get everything right.. you will be blown away by the image!!
N949WP From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 7, posted (9 years 2 months 2 weeks 1 day 19 hours ago) and read 8464 times:
With regard to slide film, it's better to err on the side of underexposure. A good deal of details can be retrieved from the dark areas of an underexposed slide when you put it through a scanner and make the right adjustments. Whereas for an over-exposed slide, the details lost in the overblown highlights tend to be irrecoverable. That's just my experience.
Oh BTW, avoid Velvia if you're photographing people. The intense colors and contrast of Velvia will make your subjects look weird and unnatural.
Velvia 100 ? thought Velvia comes in 50 only..... in my days as slide shooter for sure.
Most common for aviation is Kodak K64 though although I never liked it.
Personally I have always been in favor of Velvia which I used with an ISO setting of 40 but I would recommend it to you as a first time user because they are expensive.
My advice would be to go for Provia 100 and/or 400F both are very good and a bit more allround.
TimdeGroot From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 14, posted (9 years 2 months 2 weeks 1 day 11 hours ago) and read 8352 times:
From what I've heard the current Ektachrome is pretty good. Never tried it myself though.
Provia is the best allrounder I think, and you can push to 200 without much problems. Personally I don't like Provia's color and find it somewhat softer in the edges than K64, which is still my film of choice.
Plan to do more slideshooting myself this summer, there's just something magical to it that you don't get with digital
Key From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 16, posted (9 years 2 months 2 weeks 1 day 11 hours ago) and read 8351 times:
Being a slides-only guy, I agree with the others. Velvia can be great for nature, especially flowers, but my main film is Provia 100F. It has the sharpness and cost of KR64 (or even a bit lower) but the speed and easiness of development of Sensia - in Europe, that is. For test purposes, shoot away with Sensia at half the price, and expect to adapt only to its quality when changing to Provia.
Exposure generally is equal to negative film, with the already made very important remark that if being a bit off you should be on the dark side. I hardly ever bracket, only when in real doubt. With your typical aircraft against a bright grey sky-situation a +.7 correction usually does the trick. Spot metering is tricky and has to be used really well, but center-weighted metering can do magic for moving aircraft.
StealthZ From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 17, posted (9 years 2 months 2 weeks 22 hours ago) and read 8316 times:
Quoting Aviopic (Reply 11): Personally I have always been in favor of Velvia which I used with an ISO setting of 40
Never quite understood this, Always been told, and had great success with slide film like EK100 etc by underexposing a bit ie setting EK100 at ISO125. Setting Velvia50 at ISO40 would result in overexposure.. at least in my understanding.
Timz From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 18, posted (9 years 2 months 2 weeks 11 hours ago) and read 8288 times:
"Thanks. I would be using it for people photography more than anything..."
Get somebody to loan you an 85 or 105 mm lens. When you try it you'll probably prefer it to the 50 mm.
I think you'll eventually find bracketing isn't as vital as guys make it sound. Shoot a scene twice, a half-stop apart, and many times you won't be able to decide which one you like better. In other words, "correct" exposure isn't always obvious. If you're out in the sun you'll eventually learn what exposure works there and then you can just stick with that, maybe making slight adjustments for the sun's altitude above the horizon.