Fergulmcc From Ireland, joined Oct 2004, 1916 posts, RR: 54 Reply 1, posted (8 years 2 weeks 5 days 20 hours ago) and read 2238 times:
Are you processing them through photoshop. All digital images are soft, the degree of softness depends on you wallet, i.e. What lenses you can afford. You should still be able to get good photos with the lens that you have but maybe stick to the days with good light.
All photos need to be processed in photoshop and if you want you can send me an e-mail and I will forward you on my workflow on how I process my shots.
With the first photo try to avoid the fence getting in the way, get a small step ladder to get above the fence.
JumboJim747 From Australia, joined Oct 2004, 2462 posts, RR: 50 Reply 5, posted (8 years 2 weeks 5 days 20 hours ago) and read 2224 times:
Hey PHIL the best advice i got from everyone here was to stick to AV mode in the camera and stay around the F8 area.
I now just leave my camera on F8 in av mode and let the camera worry about the shutter speed.
And also you say your shooting at 200 ISO try to go down to 100 and if the light is bad then go up to 200 if you have too.
The 300D has also got settings for sharpening you can change the sharpening on it but dont go down below the middle setting.
Quoting Fergulmcc (Reply 1): All photos need to be processed in photoshop and if you want you can send me an e-mail and I will forward you on my workflow on how I process my shots.
And a great workflow at that im using it as i speak and finding it very helpful indeed.
Jid From Barbados, joined Dec 2004, 960 posts, RR: 35 Reply 6, posted (8 years 2 weeks 5 days 20 hours ago) and read 2200 times:
Wilco, it looks like you have been using the Auto setting on your 300D. First shot was ISO200, F5.6, 1/1000sec - second shot was ISO200, F6.3, 1/1250sec. No Exposure Bias was applied. For fairly static shots of aircraft like that in good light try using you 300D in AV mode, ISO100 and set the aperture to around F8 - F9. Normally most lens are at their sharpest when they are stopped down to that size.
Always check the histogram after you have taken a shot and try and get the main peak in the most central part of the graph. If it is all bunched to the left then if is slightly underexposing so increase the exposure bias slightly. If the graph is all to the right then knock the bias down slightly. This is a simplistic explaination of how these functions work but should point you in the right direction.
Cheers .. Jid
G7EPN is back after 15 years! Operating all Bands 80mtrs -> 70cms QRZ DX
Erwin972 From Netherlands, joined May 2004, 499 posts, RR: 49 Reply 9, posted (8 years 2 weeks 5 days 18 hours ago) and read 2168 times:
To look at the settings - also called EXIF data - go to windows explorer, right click on the file, go to properties and search for advanced on one of the tabs.
You can also look at them in Photoshop.
I looked at both shots: first shot might also be soft because of the distance: the influence of the atmosphere at work here. The second one is very dark because of the metering that is looking at the very bright landing lights, and thus underexposing the shot.
Other things already mentioned, when there is enough light:
- Av mode
- Iso 100
- work with some exposure bias, underexpose with complete white liveries in the bright sun, overexpose when head-ons with bright lamps shining at you...
- explorer the possibilities of shooting RAW - leaves you more options during post-processing to save the shot.
Next time I am at FRA it is time for a crash course ?
Fergulmcc From Ireland, joined Oct 2004, 1916 posts, RR: 54 Reply 10, posted (8 years 2 weeks 5 days 18 hours ago) and read 2164 times:
Quoting WILCO737 (Reply 7): I used the Av funcion and set f5.6 and let the camera do the rest of the stuff!
Wilco, like the others have said, change the apperture to f8-f11. Thers is no need to select f5.6 on a sunny day. Also you may have problems with your depth of field when using this apperture. Keep the ISO low and use Large and fine JPEG.