Beechcraft From Germany, joined Nov 2003, 811 posts, RR: 52 Posted (3 years 9 months 2 days ago) and read 1198 times:
AIRLINERS.NET CREW PHOTO SCREENER
Hi all,
i think this Masterclass thing was a good idea really and i decided to kick of another "lesson" before we forget this thing ever existed.
Dustspot are an issue these days with DSLR being available for a broad public and we often have to reject otherwise fine pictures for having visible dirt in them.
Let´s all reduce this kind of rejections by sharing our methods to get rid of dirt in our photos.
Ok, let´s go. To make it simple, i use a method real close to the one Fergul describes in his manual on the upload page. I´ll quote it here:
1. Create a duplicate layer, Layer> Duplicate layer, it may help to call this new layer by another name, say USM
2. Press F7 to bring up the layers window, this will appear to the right of your screen
3. Select the new "Background Copy" (USM) layer (just click on the name)
4. Now equalize, (3.0) Filter> Adjustments>Equalise,
(2.0) Image>Adjustments>Equalize
5. Select the "Background layer” Not the ‘Background Copy, (USM). You will still see the equalised image, but all editing you do is done on the original layer.
6. Select heal tool, you will need to set the heal tool so press ‘Alt’ and click, (left click) near the spot in question, do this for each spot.
7. Heal the dust spots on the image. You will not see the spots disappear, but they do disappear on the original image. Remember which ones you did already. If you healed all dust spots, -> step 8.
8. Now delete the Background Copy" Select the Background Copy (USM) by
clicking on it and then delete, Layer>Delete Layer
9. You should now have the original image with the spots removed and the Equalized gone as well.
I personally created a Photoshop action for this, in connection with a hot key, so by pressing F3 this layer will be created to check my photo and i can delet it afterwards by pressing F4. Saves some time...
So how do you do it?
As Eduard said in the sharpening class:
Lets take it from here and everyone can add his/her own experiences or difficulties, but try to keep it neat and informative. Don't repeat things that have been mentioned in a previous post and no replies with "I do that too" or such.
best regards,
Denis
That's it! You people have stood in my way long enough. I'm going to clown college!
Chris78cpr From United Kingdom (England), joined Feb 2004, 2707 posts, RR: 57 Reply 2, posted (3 years 9 months 1 day 22 hours ago) and read 1145 times:
Thanks Dennis! I'm editing some shots right now and it looks like the sahara on my sensor! With your method i have manged to get rid of them all pretty quickly!
Cheers!
Chris
Canon 5D2 + 1D2 with other bodies and lots of L glass.
Wallace From United Kingdom (Scotland), joined Jan 2005, 67 posts, RR: 0 Reply 3, posted (3 years 9 months 1 day 22 hours ago) and read 1141 times:
Layers is definitely the way to go. Denis's technique can also be done with the clone brush although remember to select a big enough brush, a low opacity and remember to clone from several sections around the spot to blend together and remove the spot.
For Photoshop you can click on the eye symbol on the layer palate to hide the equalised layer to check to see if the spot has been removed.
I tend to zoom in to a quarter of the frame and scan the whole image at high magnification. Holding the space bar down will temporarily transform the cursor to the hand tool
It is also worth while deleting the equalised layer and making a new one to check if the spots really have disappeared completely.
Of course the real thing is not to have the spots on the sensor in the first place!
"..... for beauty is written on the eye of the screener."
JohnJ From United States, joined Jun 2000, 1292 posts, RR: 4 Reply 4, posted (3 years 9 months 1 day 20 hours ago) and read 1113 times:
Thank you, Beechcraft et al. This is really an effective method.
Now for an additional question. I saw in another thread recently that "hot pixels" are now considered by Airliners.net to be "digital dirt" and should be removed from photos before submission. To my knowledge hot pixels don't show up in the same manner as dust spots by using the equalize feature. Any tips on how to quickly spot these? I have the hot pixel detector program but I'd like to be able to quickly spot the hot pixels on an individual image if they exist.
Codeshare From Poland, joined Sep 2002, 1614 posts, RR: 2 Reply 5, posted (3 years 9 months 1 day 20 hours ago) and read 1105 times:
Beechcraft that is exactly how I do it. I sometimes. however, use the heal tool on the visible spots before the layer/equalize actions.
Occasionally I also darken the image a bit more to see the sopts come out.
KS/codeshare
How much A is there is Airliners Net ? 0 or nothing ?
VasanthD From India, joined May 2005, 450 posts, RR: 15 Reply 6, posted (3 years 9 months 19 hours ago) and read 1003 times:
Quoting Wallace (Reply 3): Denis's technique can also be done with the clone brush
After using the clone tool, I use the healing brush around the cloned circumference to ease with with the surrounding areas... Makes it a lot smoother feel...
DLKAPA From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 8, posted (3 years 9 months 12 hours ago) and read 949 times:
Personally, after I resize my images down to display size (1200 pixels wide by 800 tall usually), the very next thing I do is pop the contrast slightly using an unsharp mask technique where I set the amount to 20%, the radius to about 10-20 pixels, and the threshold to zero. This ensures that every pixel edge in the image will slightly increase in contrast between the pixels next to it. not only does it make the entire image pop, but it also makes dustspots somewhat easier to pick out. Then, I create a brightness/contrast layer and lower the brightness while at the same time increase the contrast. At that point, it's pretty dang hard to miss the dustspots, so I select the bottom layer to work with and I go to filter > Noise > Dust and Scratches. I select all the dustspots, and adjust the threshold and radius of the filter accordingly to effectively remove the dustspots. I prefer this method over the clone tool because the clone tool is an exact replica of pixels that aren't really in the same general location as the spots to be removed, whereas the dust and scratches filter does it's work by comparing the dustspots to the pixels immediately surrounding the dustspot, and blends accordingly.
DLKAPA From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 10, posted (3 years 9 months 9 hours ago) and read 916 times:
Yeah, the hicks here decided they wanted to be a completely different country, so everywhere from County Road 7 to Highway 160 on the north, over to 143 on the west and the La Plata river on the east is now officially the independant communist republic of Eritrea. But don't tell that to Governor Owens.
Q330 From Australia, joined Dec 2003, 1460 posts, RR: 34 Reply 11, posted (3 years 9 months 5 hours ago) and read 891 times:
Quoting Beechcraft (Thread starter): Lets take it from here and everyone can add his/her own experiences or difficulties, but try to keep it neat and informative.
Quoting CYEGsTankers (Reply 9): Hey Eric, when did the state of Colorado accept this flag?
Eritrea? New hick town?
Please try to keep the thread on topic. There's a nice private message feature you can use for stuff like this.
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