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Theoretically, This Shutterspeed Would Work. Or...  
User currently offlineThom@s From Norway, joined Oct 2000, 11955 posts, RR: 46
Posted (13 years 4 months 20 hours ago) and read 1180 times:

Hi there.

A thought crossed my mind the other day. When I'm out taking pics of stationary aircraft, I normally use 250 or 500 as my selected shutterspeed. I normally don't use a tripod for this, as I don't find it to be necessary.

But, would I get a desent picture if I used a tripod and took a pic of a stationary aircraft with 3-4 sec as the shutterspeed? Naturally I would make sure too much light wouldn't pass through the lens, so that it wouldn't go white.

Would the pic be ruined, or would it turn out nice and clear?

Thom@s


"If guns don't kill people, people kill people - does that mean toasters don't toast toast, toast toast toast?"
9 replies: All unread, jump to last
 
User currently offlineJan Mogren From Sweden, joined Dec 2000, 2043 posts, RR: 50
Reply 1, posted (13 years 4 months 20 hours ago) and read 1160 times:

As long as the camera isn't moving one tiny fraction of a bit during exposure... yes.
/JM



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User currently offlineJwenting From Netherlands, joined Apr 2001, 10213 posts, RR: 18
Reply 2, posted (13 years 4 months 20 hours ago) and read 1158 times:

many landscape photographers use exposures of about 5 seconds.
At those times, reciprocity failure of the film may start to have an effect on the exposure. This can lead to underexposure and/or colourcast depending on the film (some are better suited than others).
I suggest you read http://www.usefilm.com/articles/selectcolorfilm/index.php for a good intro in filmbehaveour.



I wish I were flying
User currently offlineCkw From UK - England, joined Aug 2010, 769 posts, RR: 16
Reply 3, posted (13 years 4 months 20 hours ago) and read 1149 times:

Possible, but your tripod best be rock solid and

a) you should use a cable/remote release to fire the shutter. Failing that, use your camera's delayed exposure feature

b) if your camera has this feature, use the "mirror lock up" as this significantly reduces any vibration caused by the camera itself.

Cheers,

Colin



Colin K. Work, Pixstel
User currently offlineCYKA From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 4, posted (13 years 4 months 20 hours ago) and read 1148 times:

3-4 seconds seems really long for daytime shooting, I get pin-point star images with my 50mm with exposures of 25 sec +, but I assume the heat distortion present during the daytime would blur the image more in a longer exposure then it would in a shorter one....especially with a long lens.

I think 1/60th or 1/125 would be more practical with a tripod, altough I don't think slower shutter speeds would make the exposure noticebly sharper.

One more thing, I also dont think you could stop down the lens enough to acheive the proper exposure with 3-4 sec, especially in sunny condtions.


User currently offlineThom@s From Norway, joined Oct 2000, 11955 posts, RR: 46
Reply 5, posted (13 years 4 months 20 hours ago) and read 1140 times:

Thanks for the fast replies everyone.

So, it would work then. When you guys say the tripod must be rock solid, do you mean more solid than when useing the same shutterspeeds while taking night pics?

Thanks for that link there Jwenting, that'll be very usefull.

Erm, I don't have a cable, but I took this pic with about 4 sec shutterspeed.


Click for large version
Click here for full size photo!

Photo © Thomas Andre Hjelmen



If that is stabile enough for nightpics, wouldn't it do for photos taken in daylight?

Thom@s



"If guns don't kill people, people kill people - does that mean toasters don't toast toast, toast toast toast?"
User currently offlineThom@s From Norway, joined Oct 2000, 11955 posts, RR: 46
Reply 6, posted (13 years 4 months 20 hours ago) and read 1141 times:

CYKA, I know 4 sec is a long time at daytime, but it's just experimental. I normally use a tripod for anything below 1/125 myself.

I could always try to get the lens down to the proper exposure.  Smile Worth a try anyway.

Thom@s



"If guns don't kill people, people kill people - does that mean toasters don't toast toast, toast toast toast?"
User currently offlineJwenting From Netherlands, joined Apr 2001, 10213 posts, RR: 18
Reply 7, posted (13 years 4 months 17 hours ago) and read 1125 times:

Good filters to get long times in daylight are ND4 and ND8 (blocking 3/4 and 7/8 of incoming light).
Using Velvia (ISO 50) also helps.

I've done nightshots (not of aircraft) with exposure of several minutes. With such times, the emulsion really starts to break down with many films, leading to weird colours (but not unpleasant).



I wish I were flying
User currently offlineCkw From UK - England, joined Aug 2010, 769 posts, RR: 16
Reply 8, posted (13 years 4 months 16 hours ago) and read 1122 times:

If you can do long exposures at night, then you should be able to do it in daytime as well. But anything you can do to minimise the risk of vibration is worthwhile - better to get results based on preparation than luck!

If you don't have any ND filters to cut the light, you can use a polariser to knock a couple of stops off the exposure - even if the light is non-polarised.



Colin K. Work, Pixstel
User currently offlineMikephotos From United States of America, joined Oct 2000, 2923 posts, RR: 54
Reply 9, posted (13 years 4 months 12 hours ago) and read 1111 times:

Thom@s,

For the sharpest picture, think aperture rather than shutter speed when it comes to non-moving aircraft. Most lenses are sharpest at f8 or f11 rather than f22 or f32 (or f2.8/5.6). Check test-reports on your lens and find out. My lens test showed that f11 resulted in the sharpest slides from edge to center and 90% of my ramp shooting is done at f11. I shoot in sunny conditions most of the time so f11 works perfectly.

Michael


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