Thom@s From Norway, joined Oct 2000, 11953 posts, RR: 46 Posted (13 years 1 day 20 hours ago) and read 1151 times:
A thought crossed my mind the other day. When I'm out taking pics of stationary aircraft, I normally use 250 or 500 as my selected shutterspeed. I normally don't use a tripod for this, as I don't find it to be necessary.
But, would I get a desent picture if I used a tripod and took a pic of a stationary aircraft with 3-4 sec as the shutterspeed? Naturally I would make sure too much light wouldn't pass through the lens, so that it wouldn't go white.
Would the pic be ruined, or would it turn out nice and clear?
"If guns don't kill people, people kill people - does that mean toasters don't toast toast, toast toast toast?"
Jwenting From Netherlands, joined Apr 2001, 10213 posts, RR: 18
Reply 2, posted (13 years 1 day 20 hours ago) and read 1129 times:
many landscape photographers use exposures of about 5 seconds.
At those times, reciprocity failure of the film may start to have an effect on the exposure. This can lead to underexposure and/or colourcast depending on the film (some are better suited than others).
I suggest you read http://www.usefilm.com/articles/selectcolorfilm/index.php for a good intro in filmbehaveour.
CYKA From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 4, posted (13 years 1 day 20 hours ago) and read 1119 times:
3-4 seconds seems really long for daytime shooting, I get pin-point star images with my 50mm with exposures of 25 sec +, but I assume the heat distortion present during the daytime would blur the image more in a longer exposure then it would in a shorter one....especially with a long lens.
I think 1/60th or 1/125 would be more practical with a tripod, altough I don't think slower shutter speeds would make the exposure noticebly sharper.
One more thing, I also dont think you could stop down the lens enough to acheive the proper exposure with 3-4 sec, especially in sunny condtions.
Ckw From UK - England, joined Aug 2010, 732 posts, RR: 16
Reply 8, posted (13 years 1 day 16 hours ago) and read 1093 times:
If you can do long exposures at night, then you should be able to do it in daytime as well. But anything you can do to minimise the risk of vibration is worthwhile - better to get results based on preparation than luck!
If you don't have any ND filters to cut the light, you can use a polariser to knock a couple of stops off the exposure - even if the light is non-polarised.
Mikephotos From United States of America, joined Oct 2000, 2923 posts, RR: 54
Reply 9, posted (13 years 1 day 12 hours ago) and read 1082 times:
For the sharpest picture, think aperture rather than shutter speed when it comes to non-moving aircraft. Most lenses are sharpest at f8 or f11 rather than f22 or f32 (or f2.8/5.6). Check test-reports on your lens and find out. My lens test showed that f11 resulted in the sharpest slides from edge to center and 90% of my ramp shooting is done at f11. I shoot in sunny conditions most of the time so f11 works perfectly.