Mirage From Portugal, joined May 1999, 3120 posts, RR: 16 Reply 1, posted (11 years 8 months 2 weeks 5 days ago) and read 1534 times:
I have that Sigma 100-300 4.5-6.7 UC. I don't have that kind of problems, you can see my photos here to see the results of that lens with a Minolta 500Si.
The AF is a disaster, now I shoot always in MF.
Turbophan From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 2, posted (11 years 8 months 2 weeks 4 days 22 hours ago) and read 1528 times:
I used to own that lens. (notice the choice of words). No more. Instead I bought the new Sigma 100-300 4.0 APO - it's great. color rendition is very good and its sharp too. its not all that expensive either which was surprising. the only drawback with it is the zoom control - its a bit stiff (but all Sigma lenses have stiff zoom control).
CYKA From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 3, posted (11 years 8 months 2 weeks 4 days 21 hours ago) and read 1527 times:
Use reala or sensia 100 and dump the 200 kodak iso film. Use 1/500(action) or 1/350 for static for all your shots and you should have no more problems. If nothing has changed, exchange the lens. It might be bad one, but that highly unlikely.
Victor Alpha From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 4, posted (11 years 8 months 2 weeks 4 days 20 hours ago) and read 1522 times:
I'm currently using 1/1000 or 1/500 depending on the light... the shots I took this morning (8 Sep) were very bad, even worse than my Jakarta shots. Not only were they blurred, but they were quite overlighted as well. I made measurements on my light meter before snapping, and it was in the "just right" range, so I really dont know the problem.
Kodak 200 hasnt given me any problems previously. I dont want to change to slides cos i dont have a slide projector, neither do i have a slide scanner.
I'll try to get a few scans of the bad and good shots for you guys.
CYKA From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 5, posted (11 years 8 months 2 weeks 4 days 20 hours ago) and read 1517 times:
Sounds like the camera is giving you bad light readings. It could be due to the lens not being 100% compatible with your camera body. I have the same problem because the meter battery is old and I dont have the $15 to replace it. What f/stops did you use when shooting in sunlight? f8 at 1/500 or f5.6 at 1/1000 should be about right.
Victor Alpha From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 7, posted (11 years 8 months 2 weeks 4 days 1 hour ago) and read 1499 times:
The lens has a max aperture of 22... dont ask me why it says 4.5 - 6.7 but I try to usually use for 1/500 around F6.7 but unfortunately it gives me shots that are overlighted.. will try again with higher appertures..
Mirage From Portugal, joined May 1999, 3120 posts, RR: 16 Reply 10, posted (11 years 8 months 2 weeks 3 days 23 hours ago) and read 1484 times:
I'm not an expert in technique but I think 8 should be used only in perfect light conditions. Personally I don't give priority to aperture, I prefer to give priority to shutter speed and keep it at least higher than 1/250.
Once I made 1500Km to Madrid by car, only to photograph planes. There I gave priority to aperture keeping it all the time at 8. I caught bad weather, cloudy days, the result were lots of blurried photos so I learn the lesson in the worst way.
Now I use all the time high shutter speeds, when the light doesn't permit me to use high speeds it's time to go home and be a "bad" guy at the Airliners.net photography forum
CYKA From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 11, posted (11 years 8 months 2 weeks 3 days 19 hours ago) and read 1478 times:
My camera dosen't have shutter or aperture priority modes so I have to set everything manualy according to the condtions. If its a sunny or even slightly hazy day, I always leave the shutter at 1/500 and aperature at f8 and the photos always turn out nicely exposed. For evening shots I usually drop the f/stop to 5.6 or so. If a heavy cloud covers the sun then f4 is usally suitable but then I avoid shooting in such condtions.
Da fwog From United Kingdom, joined Aug 1999, 867 posts, RR: 9 Reply 12, posted (11 years 8 months 2 weeks 3 days 15 hours ago) and read 1474 times:
If you are using ISO 100 film, then on a bright sunny day and with the sun shining full on your subject, you can use an aperture of F8 (which should give you better results quality-wise than using the lens wide open) with a shutter speed of between 1/250-1/500 sec. (if your camera goes in 1/2 or 1/3 stops, you should get around 1/350, 1/400 mostly I would expect - closer to the 1/500 than the 1/250). using ISO 200 film will give you double the shutter speed (1/800-1/1000 maybe) for the same aperture, or alternatively, allow you to close the lens down to F11 for the same shutter speed. If your camera is giving you exposure readings that are a lot different to this there are several possibilites: the metering is broken; the metering is not doing a good job on your subject; the metering is set in the wrong mode (maybe you are spotmetering off a part of the subject that is very dark or very light); there is a problem with the electrical contacts between the camera and lens (so the camera and lens are not communicating correctly); your battery is running flat; you have exposure compensation accidentally turned on (so you are deliberatly under or overexposing the image); your camera is either detecting the speed of your film wrongly, or else you have the wrong film speed selected. (And that's about all I can think of at the moment)