Beechcraft From Germany, joined Nov 2003, 828 posts, RR: 51 Posted (5 years 3 months 1 week 3 days 11 hours ago) and read 6931 times:
Hi all, time to bring back the Masterclass.
Instead of focusing on a specific items of the post processing, let´s have a look a the Process itself. Tell us which programs (maybe even your Hardware setup) you are using and share your workflows with us.
Both JPG and RAW workflows are welcome, also with explanations of he differences between the both.
Once again, consider this to be a learning environment and be nice to each other.
have fun,
Denis
That's it! You people have stood in my way long enough. I'm going to clown college!
1 WakeTurbulence: I shoot JPEG with the 300D + Sigma 50-500, Canon 70-200 f/4L, Canon 18-55 kit, or Sigma 10-20mm. The workflow changes a little with each lens due to t
2 JeffM: Open, Level, Crop, Resize, Check for dust, smart sharpen mask, Save as..... If the image is exposed properly, the above steps take about 2 minutes, th
3 JohnJ: Interesting - I normally just use the PS crop tool set to 1024x693. Is there really that much difference in cropping then resizing as a separate step
4 StealthZ: My workflow is similar to Jeff's Although I will often start with a RAW file. My sharpen routine is either Jeff's Smart Sharpen Mask action( maybe Jef
5 Brett: Very interesting......at the moment while learning how to do things I can easily spend an hour or so on a pic and then come back to it again the foll
6 JeffM: Sure, it's on Eric's site... http://rockymountainavphotos.com/Kyl...kflows/JMactionsmaskstutorial.html Best thing to do would be just to re-run the a
7 NIKV69: Well I am far from Masterclass but I keep it simple. In raw I fool with the exposure and shadows then open in PS. 1.Level 2.Crop (I use Fergul's #) 3.
Dlednicer From United States of America, joined May 2005, 426 posts, RR: 8 Reply 8, posted (5 years 3 months 1 week 2 days 17 hours ago) and read 6753 times:
AIRLINERS.NET CREW DATABASE EDITOR
My workflow looks much like those already mentioned, but I do two additional things. Often, particularly for indoor photos in low light, I will first use Helicon Filter on the "Standard" setting to reduce noise:
In some cases, I will make the filtered image one layer in Photoshop and the unfiltered another layer. Then, by using the eraser on the filtered image, I select what of unfiltered image gets preserved. This is really handy for reducing the noise in pavement in long range shots and the noise in the sky for upwards shots:
The second technique is similar. I'll make copies of the image on multiple layers and use the eraser to break the image up into components. Then, I can work the curves on the different layers to get the image I'm after. In the image below, I had to lighten the black helicopter a lot to get some range on it. However, if I used the curves on the whole image, it bleached. If I remember right, the pavement and sky was a layer that had been filtered, the other helicopters were a layer and the subject helicopter was another layer.
In this image, the problem was I was shooting early in the morning, before the sun was really up. Everything in the foreground was a little dark, while the sky was a little too light. I made the sky a layer and everything else was another layer. By doing this, I was able to improve the levels in the each layer without killing everything in the other layer.
Bigbrokerbo From Germany, joined May 2005, 20 posts, RR: 0 Reply 9, posted (5 years 3 months 1 week 2 days 15 hours ago) and read 6721 times:
Hello,
first of all I'd like to say that think that I'm far away from reaching
the masterclass in photo editing. But I'm always trying to get better.
My Equipment is a 300D. Mostly i use the Canon 70-300 IS USM for aviation photography.
So here is my current workflow.
I shot in RAW. I use CaptureOne to edit the RAW files.
1. Adjusting the exposure with the automatic tool.
2. Adjusting the white balance with the automatic tool.
3. Sharpening a little bit (Standard look, about 50-90).
4. Converting to TIFF.
5. Open the image with Photoshop CS2
6. Leveling
7. Croping
8. Erasing the dustspots with a dublicate layer wich is equalized. Using the clone stamp tool.
9. Checking the histogram and adjusting the light levels.
10. Adjusting Brightness/Contrast (about 2-10 digits each)
11. Resizing to 1200*xxx or 1024*xxx
12. Sharpening using the USM tool.
13. Save as JPEG, highest quality (level 12)
14. Looking at the picture which is ready for upload. And when I'm satisfied with the result i upload it to a.net
Normally it takes me 5-10 minutes for each picture. Most time i spent for leveling and searching for dustspots.
The pictures i get rejected are mostly for quality or oversharpend reasons. So I have to improve this. What i've learned in the past is: If the weather is dull while shooting pictures all your editing skills with PS are useless. The pictures have a lack of quality which can't be repaired.
Bubbles From Canada, joined Apr 2005, 1193 posts, RR: 55 Reply 10, posted (5 years 3 months 1 week 2 days 15 hours ago) and read 6714 times:
This is an interesting topic!
I am using very similar steps as Matt mentioned in Reply 1. But, I still have a question about multiple layers. What's the difference among 'Merge Down', 'Merge Visible' and 'Flatten Image'. Which option should I use if I want to have the best quality in the final JPG file. I am using Photoshop CS2 v9.0.2.
PUnmuth@VIE From Austria, joined Aug 2000, 4161 posts, RR: 59 Reply 11, posted (5 years 3 months 1 week 2 days 15 hours ago) and read 6709 times:
1.) Exposure correction if needed (RAW in Nikon Capture)
2.) Levels correction if needed (RAW in Nikon Capture)
3.) Save as jpeg and continue in Photoshop
4.) Adjust angle
5.) Crop
6.) Cloning out dust using layers
7.) resize
8.) Sharpen with USM (no fiddling around wtih layers)
Save with max qual as jpg.
EDDL From Germany, joined Dec 2002, 737 posts, RR: 22 Reply 12, posted (5 years 3 months 1 week 2 days 14 hours ago) and read 6691 times:
Quoting PUnmuth@VIE (Reply 11): 1.) Exposure correction if needed (RAW in Nikon Capture)
2.) Levels correction if needed (RAW in Nikon Capture)
3.) Save as jpeg and continue in Photoshop
4.) Adjust angle
5.) Crop
6.) Cloning out dust using layers
7.) resize
8.) Sharpen with USM (no fiddling around wtih layers)
Save with max qual as jpg.
Double compression? I hope you meant TIFF in point 3 ...
StealthZ From Australia, joined Feb 2005, 4977 posts, RR: 52 Reply 14, posted (5 years 3 months 1 week 2 days 12 hours ago) and read 6652 times:
Quoting EDDL (Reply 12): Double compression? I hope you meant TIFF in point 3 ...
Remember Phil, the majority of photographers do this anyway by shooting jpg in camera.
I would put money on the fact that by exercising a little control over Nikon Capture, Peter is getting better quality JPG than most.
Cheers
Chris
If your camera sends text messages, that could explain why your photos are rubbish!
EDDL From Germany, joined Dec 2002, 737 posts, RR: 22 Reply 15, posted (5 years 3 months 1 week 2 days 1 hour ago) and read 6589 times:
Quoting StealthZ (Reply 14): Remember Phil, the majority of photographers do this anyway by shooting jpg in camera.
I would put money on the fact that by exercising a little control over Nikon Capture, Peter is getting better quality JPG than most.
This is true Chris, however we are in a masterclass here and unexperienced uploaders should learn how to do it. But this is not the way to maximize quality. Certain cameras (esp the Nikons ... ) tend to have more noise than others and JPEG double compression will make it much worse. With todays powerful computers in mind which handle large files easily I don't see a reason to go the RAW/NEF=>JPEG=>JPEG way.
Q330 From Australia, joined Dec 2003, 1460 posts, RR: 30 Reply 16, posted (5 years 3 months 1 week 2 days ago) and read 6587 times:
Quoting JohnJ (Reply 3): it doesn't appear that you can move the "lassoed" area around once it's been marked, and there's no center point as with the crop tool. Is there a better way of doing this?
With the rectangular marquee tool still selected, just click and drag anywhere in the selected area. Be sure to actually move the selection, otherwise when you release the mouse button, the area will be deselected.
PUnmuth@VIE From Austria, joined Aug 2000, 4161 posts, RR: 59 Reply 17, posted (5 years 3 months 1 week 2 days ago) and read 6581 times:
Quoting EDDL (Reply 15): This is true Chris, however we are in a masterclass here and unexperienced uploaders should learn how to do it
Correct but they should not be mislead either.
I personally think its way over the acceptable limit whats required sometimes. For example :
left stabiliser shows a bit of jaggies or
first 2 letters of titles are jagged or
add 2 points of cyan and remove 2 point of magenta
IMHO way too much requirements for a hobbyist site.
Just my 2 cents.
I am not saying the other ways shown here are bad. They are certainly better than mine but as written above way above the requirements that should be set of a hobbyist site.
Peter
EDDL From Germany, joined Dec 2002, 737 posts, RR: 22 Reply 18, posted (5 years 3 months 1 week 1 day 23 hours ago) and read 6572 times:
Quoting PUnmuth@VIE (Reply 17): I am not saying the other ways shown here are bad. They are certainly better than mine but as written above way above the requirements that should be set of a hobbyist site.
Well ... you are right but in terms of required image quality A.net is way above most professional websites / stock photo agencies. TIFF won't hurt here...
This is going off-topic so I am going to shut up now.
Linco22 From United Kingdom, joined Jun 2005, 1375 posts, RR: 21 Reply 20, posted (5 years 3 months 1 week 1 day 22 hours ago) and read 6545 times:
My workflow is as follows:
Open
Level
Crop
Layer 1 lighting - adjust to suit, contrast S/H etc if needed and dust spots
Layer 2 colour - adjust if needed
Layer 3 sharpening - USM
Final check
Flatten image
Save as jpeg, either 1024 or 1200x
RAW is similar using RAWshooter essentials. Save as tiff then make the above changes and save as jpeg
Granite From UK - Scotland, joined May 1999, 5514 posts, RR: 72 Reply 21, posted (5 years 3 months 1 week 1 day 22 hours ago) and read 6542 times:
AIRLINERS.NET CREW HEAD SCREENER
Hi all
Main rule for me is keep it simple.
I can see people using too may layers, masks, filtering etc. In digital images there is no need to mask the sky and reduce noise then selectively sharpen the image.
PUnmuth@VIE From Austria, joined Aug 2000, 4161 posts, RR: 59 Reply 22, posted (5 years 3 months 1 week 1 day 22 hours ago) and read 6539 times:
Quoting Granite (Reply 21):
I can see people using too may layers, masks, filtering etc. In digital images there is no need to mask the sky and reduce noise then selectively sharpen the image.
JeffM From United States of America, joined May 2005, 3266 posts, RR: 56 Reply 23, posted (5 years 3 months 1 week 1 day 21 hours ago) and read 6528 times:
Quoting Granite (Reply 21): I can see people using too may layers, masks, filtering etc. In digital images there is no need to mask the sky and reduce noise then selectively sharpen the image.
Layers are easy, and layer masks easier still, and the most accurate way to apply ANY processsing to an image, but some people still just hit "sharpen" and smile. Right?
NIKV69 From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 25, posted (5 years 3 months 1 week 1 day 21 hours ago) and read 6523 times:
Quoting JeffM (Reply 23): Layers are easy, and layer masks easier still, and the most accurate way to apply ANY processsing to an image, but some people still just hit "sharpen" and smile. Right?
That's what I do!
Seriously I have gotten better with layers but I have also found that if the original capture is good I get away with one app of USM. Depends on the photo.
AviatorG From St. Lucia, joined Apr 2005, 215 posts, RR: 2 Reply 26, posted (5 years 3 months 6 days 20 hours ago) and read 6439 times:
My personal 11 step work flow (Not used for RAW)
1. Open photo,
2. Level,
2. Crop,
3. Dodge tool (adds metal finish e.g. leading edges, exhaust ports.)
4. Clone out dust spots,
5. Resize,
6. Saturation +15 (Usually works great for me as a standard figure.)
7. Slight adjustments with contrast & brightness,
8. Slight adjustments with shadow / highlight,
9. Smart sharpen mask,
10. Final color adjustments,
11. Save as..... & Upload (Or find out what you all think of it first.
Aero145 From Iceland, joined Jan 2005, 3045 posts, RR: 28 Reply 27, posted (5 years 3 months 6 days 19 hours ago) and read 6433 times:
Here is my current workflow:
1. Open in Photoshop CS2 Raw Converter
2. Expose up, if needed, and add contrast.
3. Sharpen, 5
4. Open in Photoshop
5. Level, if there's anything to level.
6. crop
7. Resize to one of those sizes: 1000, 1024, 1100, 1200, 1400, 1500, 1600 (wide)
8. Crop canvas, to the 3:2 ratio, 667, 683, 733, 800, 933, 1000, 1067
9. Look out for dust spots using Equalize
10. Clone out dustspots (if any) using Clone Stamp Tool
11. Go to levels, brighten up and change contrast, if needed (most often )
12. Use Magic Wand to only select the skies
13. Right click, and select "Invert"
14. Sharpen using Smart Sharpen, settings: 10-0.2-0, and Remove Lens Blur
15. Control-F until the image is sharp enough
16. Change the mode from 16 to 8
17. Change the profile to sRGB IEC61966-2.1
18. Save As, like this: Registration, dash, image number, dash, date, month, year. Example:
Michael Bajcar taught me that, when sharpening using Smart Sharpen, use the setting "Remove Lens Blur", rather than "Remove Gaussian Blur" or "Remove Motion Blur". You understand? Or do you always use the Unsharp Mask?
Soon7x7 From United States of America, joined May 2006, 2427 posts, RR: 16 Reply 32, posted (5 years 3 months 5 days 15 hours ago) and read 6273 times:
Is it advisable to ALWAYS use a "sharpen tool"despite recording a clean image in raw or tiff? Does JPG conversion degredate the image that much?
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) tend to have more noise than others and JPEG double compression will make it much worse. With todays powerful computers in mind which handle large files easily I don't see a reason to go the RAW/NEF=>JPEG=>JPEG way.
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(Not used for RAW)
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