LIPH From Italy, joined May 2004, 848 posts, RR: 1 Posted (2 years 11 months 3 weeks 1 day 4 hours ago) and read 504 times:
Hy there,
what program do you use for night shots with your DSLR ? Considering always a long exposure which setting of your camera you tested is the best to shoot with ? Aperture priority ? Time priority ? Or you just go all on manual ?
Oly720man From United Kingdom, joined May 2004, 4745 posts, RR: 11 Reply 1, posted (2 years 11 months 3 weeks 1 day 1 hour ago) and read 479 times:
I'd normally use Manual and a tripod or other solid surface. And get some practice before taking that important once in a lifetime picture.
This is one I took when waiting to pick up my parents and had to hand hold because I didn't have a tripod or other solid surface, so the exposure was only 1.3s, f6.3 with a 35mm lens (100ISO, EOS300D). That'll give you a ball park figure for the sort of exposure anyway. It could probably do with a longer time.
Man City p3 w3 d0 l0 f4 a0 P9 - hey it may never happen again!
Oly720man From United Kingdom, joined May 2004, 4745 posts, RR: 11 Reply 3, posted (2 years 11 months 3 weeks 1 day 1 hour ago) and read 469 times:
I don't use any filters, besides any UV that might be on the lens. You can get star filters if you want to be artistic, and I suppose you could use colour correction filters to compensate for any colour casts, but you can also change the white balance settings in the camera and change colours in photoshop or whatever.
The photo above was straight from the camera with only the levels adjusted. The original was more orange.
Man City p3 w3 d0 l0 f4 a0 P9 - hey it may never happen again!
Raptors From United Kingdom (England), joined Mar 2005, 154 posts, RR: 0 Reply 4, posted (2 years 11 months 3 weeks 21 hours ago) and read 438 times:
I have recently tried to take some night shots and was pleasantly surprised with the results. Personally I use shutter priority but it depends on how light/dark it is. Even at night some terminal areas can be well lit as you can see from the first example from Manchester above.
I tend to take several shots and adjust the shutter speed each time. With a DSLR you can see roughly how good the shot will be on your LCD screen, don't go too light on a night shot though.
This shot from Osaka Kansai was a 2 or 3 second exposure, tripod mounted.
JRadier From Netherlands, joined Sep 2004, 3910 posts, RR: 54 Reply 5, posted (2 years 11 months 3 weeks 20 hours ago) and read 431 times:
I do it a bit differently then Stuart (although the basics are the same). First requirement is a sturdy tripod, especially when working with heavy equipment such as a DSLR.
I always (well.... always.... did it a month ago for the first time) use Av (aperture priority) at F/8 to get the most sharpness out of my lens, and ISO100 (to get the least noise). I switch off long exp. noise reduction (in the C.Fn on my 30D) because this makes another exposure with the shutter closed after the photo, wich is a pain in the ass when you are shooting 30sec exposures). In the same menu I activate mirror-lockup (to minimise camera-shake). As I don't have a remote yet I use the timer as well, again not to touch the camera.
Hope this helps,
Jurgen
For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and ther
Raptors From United Kingdom (England), joined Mar 2005, 154 posts, RR: 0 Reply 7, posted (2 years 11 months 3 weeks 18 hours ago) and read 401 times:
I forgot to mention that I too always use the timer because you get zero camera shake this way (taking other conditions into account of course). Using ISO 100 too, no noise although I might try using f.8 in the future, good idea. Fortunately, you generally have time to compose and take several shots at night, unless you are shooting an aircraft which is about to taxi. Regarding the two shots above, you can stand there all night giving you plenty of time to practice.
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