Sokol From United States, joined Apr 2001, 278 posts, RR: 4 Posted (2 years 11 months 5 days 7 hours ago) and read 645 times:
Last Night i was trying to take night shots in ANC but most shots didn't work well blurry. I use Canon 10D, 75-300 IS USM.
I just need to know what setting should I use.
P,TV,AV, or M which one of these should i use ?
ISO ?
What else ?
Fly747 From Canada, joined Apr 2005, 1484 posts, RR: 12 Reply 1, posted (2 years 11 months 5 days 6 hours ago) and read 639 times:
Hi Sokol,
here's what I do. I use manual mode. I choose my aperture, then spot meter off the aircraft, zoom out to whatever composition I want and hit the shutter. You do need a tripod of course and I also use a remote. I use ISO 100. Also, you can turn off your IS.
The wind can be a pain when you need to expose for longer periods. Perhaps this was the case for you.
Sokol From United States, joined Apr 2001, 278 posts, RR: 4 Reply 4, posted (2 years 11 months 4 days 3 hours ago) and read 538 times:
Thanks Dave,
I just need to know if i use AV what aperture and what ISO should i use ?
Or if i use TV what shutter speed and ISO should i use ?
And if i use P what ISO should i use ?
Aviopic From Netherlands, joined Mar 2004, 2355 posts, RR: 52 Reply 5, posted (2 years 11 months 4 days 2 hours ago) and read 527 times:
Quoting Dbudd (Reply 3): Even the slightest breeze can ruin a long exposure..
No it doesn't.
Quoting Sokol (Reply 4): I just need to know if i use AV what aperture and what ISO should i use ?
Or if i use TV what shutter speed and ISO should i use ?
And if i use P what ISO should i use ?
Maybe you need a book about photography ?
Quoting Sokol (Reply 2): When all of you take shots at night what setting do you use ?
Aviopic From Netherlands, joined Mar 2004, 2355 posts, RR: 52 Reply 8, posted (2 years 11 months 3 days 16 hours ago) and read 474 times:
Quoting Jorge1812 (Reply 7): You should, because it makes the lens shaking a bit.
It's a little bit different then that.
The little gyro won't make the lens shaking when mounted on a tripod.
Don't know exactly how to explain in English but a spinning gyro has the tendency to rotate a little bit around it's own center point.
This is normally not a problem for let's say anything faster then a second or so but with longer exposure times it makes the picture look blurry.
Like you have several exposures on top of each other but shifted a little bit.
Mikephotos From United States, joined Oct 2000, 2923 posts, RR: 62 Reply 11, posted (2 years 11 months 3 days 15 hours ago) and read 450 times:
Quoting Aviopic (Reply 5): Quoting Dbudd (Reply 3):
Even the slightest breeze can ruin a long exposure..
No it doesn't.
If you have a cheap tripod, it can but with a quality pod a "slight" breeze shouldn't be a problem. Strong gusts while shooting from jetway stairs is another matter....
Aviopic From Netherlands, joined Mar 2004, 2355 posts, RR: 52 Reply 12, posted (2 years 11 months 3 days 14 hours ago) and read 447 times:
Quoting Mikephotos (Reply 11): If you have a cheap tripod, it can but with a quality pod a "slight" breeze shouldn't be a problem.
Think I meant it in a different way Mike.
Of course when there is a constant camera shake let's say during a 30s exposure the outcome will be blurry.
However a 1 s shake during that same 30s exposure won't have much effect on the outcome.
Quoting Mikephotos (Reply 11): Strong gusts while shooting from jetway stairs is another matter....
JohnJ From United States, joined Jun 2000, 1277 posts, RR: 4 Reply 13, posted (2 years 11 months 3 days 12 hours ago) and read 408 times:
Quoting Sokol (Reply 2): P,TV,AV, or M which one of these should i use ? shutter speed, aperture ?
ISO ?
I use M, usually an aperture of f8 or 9 and ISO 100, a tripod and a remote shutter release. I set the exposure to "bulb" normally - on my 300D there's a timer on the display so you can see how long the exposure is. The shutter speed will depend completely on how much light you have on the subject. I don't own a light meter, but the beauty of digital is that you can shoot at a number of exposure levels and see immediately what's working and what isn't. For a subject that's front-lit by tarmac spotlights it seems that a 5-10 second exposure is pretty typical at f8, but again your actual conditions will dictate what shutter speed gives you the correct exposure. A lot of airport lighting gives off odd yellowish or orangish colors, and if you want to correct for that after the fact shooting in RAW mode will give you the flexibility to adjust the white balance later. I've found that if I make large adjustments to the white balance after the fact I end up with really dark pictures - so you might want to either do things the "right" way and adjust the white balance in the field, or take a few longer exposures. My methods are far from scientific but they seem good enough at least to get shots accepted here.
I had the opportunity to meet up with some of A.net Mexico City photographers last year, some of whom have produced some excellent night shots. At least one of them is a big proponent of using A/V mode and letting the camera decide the exposure. I've not had much luck myself with that method, but it seemed to work for them and there's no reason you can't give it a try.
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