JonathanJet From United States of America, joined Apr 2006, 64 posts, RR: 0 Posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 1 day 12 hours ago) and read 1750 times:
I spent December 31, 2007 at LAX. There were no clouds and a rather smogless day. But all the photos I have tried to upload are rejected for too dark or too light or the usual oversharpened. Any tips on what i might do before trying to upload these? Any help would be great!
Abrevdo From Canada, joined Jul 2007, 4 posts, RR: 0 Reply 1, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 1 day 11 hours ago) and read 1745 times:
No comments, I have the same problems too. I think your pics are perfect. I guess that screeners can find as many reasons to reject as they want. This is all can not be measured. Try more. May be one day it will get in. I also attempted Jetphotos and and planespotters. Some pictures rejected here was take over there. And backward.
WakeTurbulence From United States of America, joined Apr 2004, 1288 posts, RR: 18 Reply 2, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 1 day 10 hours ago) and read 1731 times:
Jonathan,
All 3 of these photos are oversharpened. The easiest way for me to point it out is the AA 777. If you look at the cheatlines in the middle, they are not straight, they look more like small stairs. This is an easy fix if you know how to work photoshop. How did you sharpen them? If you used USM what setting was it on?
-Matt
Quoting Abrevdo (Reply 1): I guess that screeners can find as many reasons to reject as they want.
GPHOTO From United Kingdom, joined Aug 2004, 818 posts, RR: 27 Reply 3, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 1 day 9 hours ago) and read 1717 times:
AIRLINERS.NET CREW DATABASE EDITOR
Jonathan,
Indeed these images are too sharp, resulting in jaggies. This is very noticeable on the titles, such as Delta and United. What editing program do you use? What tools and settings within the program? If you are using Photoshop Elements 3, I may be able to help.
Indeed these images are too sharp, resulting in jaggies. This is very noticeable on the titles, such as Delta and United. What editing program do you use? What tools and settings within the program? If you are using Photoshop Elements 3, I may be able to help.
Don't get discouraged!
Best regards,
Jim
Jim,
I am using Photoshop CS2, which I suspect shouldn't be that different from Element. What I do is, I use USM. I duplicate the layer and then use normally only one pass of 180, 0.3 and 0. and that's it, after than I flatten the two layers.
I know this is not a good way of doing it. I have read some worksflows, but following those I cannot even make my images like the one that I normally follow. Any suggestions or tips?
StealthZ From Australia, joined Feb 2005, 5431 posts, RR: 49 Reply 7, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 1 day 7 hours ago) and read 1687 times:
Quoting Mnazarinia (Reply 6): I duplicate the layer and then use normally only one pass of 180, 0.3 and 0. and that's it, after than I flatten the two layers.
I tend to think some have misunderstood the concept of sharpening in a layer.
The above mentioned technique gains absolutely nothing over sharpening the original layer.
If your camera sends text messages, that could explain why your photos are rubbish!
Linco22 From United Kingdom, joined Jun 2005, 1379 posts, RR: 18 Reply 8, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 1 day 7 hours ago) and read 1684 times:
Hi Jonathan,
Welcome to the forum! The Delta 752 is blurry as is the United 73 around the nose. The AA 772 should be fixable with better sharpening. Not that I can give you solid advice as that's something I usually struggle with badly
So, rework the T7 and I can see that being accepted!
Eadster From Australia, joined Jan 2005, 2214 posts, RR: 16 Reply 9, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 1 day 6 hours ago) and read 1673 times:
I agree, they are all a little too sharp. Scrap the first, its blurry and won't be able to be fixed no matter the work flow.
Quoting Mnazarinia (Reply 6): I duplicate the layer and then use normally only one pass of 180, 0.3 and 0. and that's it, after than I flatten the two layers.
Sorry mate but you are just wasting your own time. What you've just explained, has no effect on an image at all!!!
Cpd From Australia, joined Jun 2008, 4879 posts, RR: 44 Reply 10, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 1 day 6 hours ago) and read 1665 times:
The idea of sharpening is to use multiple layers at different sharpness levels, each one tailored to a different part of the plane.
Some say you can erase out what you don't need (such as halos)- but you can also do the reverse and paint in the sharpness. Apply a layer-mask, fill it black, then paint in white on the layer mask with a soft brush at a medium opacity and flow to add sharpness as required. If you add too much, you can remove it with black.
Mnazarinia From Australia, joined Mar 2005, 122 posts, RR: 4 Reply 12, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 1 day 4 hours ago) and read 1646 times:
AIRLINERS.NET CREW PHOTO SCREENER
Quoting Eadster (Reply 9): Sorry mate but you are just wasting your own time. What you've just explained, has no effect on an image at all!!!
So Martin, what is the best and efficient way of doing this? All my YMML photos in Anet has just been followed with what I said Can you just please explain more a bit.
StealthZ From Australia, joined Feb 2005, 5431 posts, RR: 49 Reply 13, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 1 day 4 hours ago) and read 1641 times:
Mehdi,
There is no point in creating a layer, sharpening then flattening.
To realise any benefit you create a layer, sharpen until you see evidence of oversharpening(jaggies etc) then either use the eraser to fade the sharpening or the more complex,but easy to use(yeah I know a tad paradoxical), method of hiding adjustments then painting them back again.
and a similarly useful one from JeffM on layer sharpening that I can't locate right now(when is the team going to start that Masterclass, Action forum?)
Cheers
Chris
If your camera sends text messages, that could explain why your photos are rubbish!
Eadster From Australia, joined Jan 2005, 2214 posts, RR: 16 Reply 14, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 1 day 4 hours ago) and read 1637 times:
Quoting Mnazarinia (Reply 12): So Martin, what is the best and efficient way of doing this? All my YMML photos in Anet has just been followed with what I said Sad Can you just please explain more a bit.
My old photography mate, has beat me to it. There's no need to go that extra step if its not going to do any good. Follow what Chris has mentioned there, and you'll see how it goes. If you need further help or questions, let me know.
JonathanJet From United States of America, joined Apr 2006, 64 posts, RR: 0 Reply 15, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 1 day 1 hour ago) and read 1615 times:
Thanks for the replies! I am using Photoshop CS2 for the editing and using the workflow from Rocky Mountain Aviation Photos along with the A.net dust spot removal tips. The Delta and United look fine to me, but if it is blurry, then so be it. Thanks for the tip there. As for the American T7, I used a USM with a Threshold of 3 a ratio of 0.3 and a Amount of 150
Per the workflow..the first thing is too add 15% Saturation....Then crop...Fix dust spots and dodge and sharpen etc. Then resize the image to 1024 x 683 in my case. Then use the unsharp mask.
At the point where i reduce the size on the AA T7 it makes the cheatlines go jaggy. Not the sharpening. The only spot the sharpening really changes is the American titles and the windows and wheels.
I don't really know how the photos I do have on a.net made it, just lucky I guess. Is there a better way to edit photos?
(I will look at SteathZ link to a workflow)
Can the United be saved? Or is the blurry nose too much to fix?
Also, any photographers in the California area that I may be able to shoot with sometime to help learn?
I hope this post is not against the rules, as I saw others that were similar. May I keep asking for tips on photos or does that get annoying?
Thanks for the offer GPHOTO..I'll be glad for any help!
JonathanJet From United States of America, joined Apr 2006, 64 posts, RR: 0 Reply 17, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 23 hours ago) and read 1573 times:
Just to clarify - I do reduce the size first. But when the size reduces the cheatlines become jaggy. Then I sharpen. So the jaggies are not from sharpening.
Dvincent From United States of America, joined Jan 2007, 1719 posts, RR: 12 Reply 18, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 23 hours ago) and read 1570 times:
Quoting JonathanJet (Reply 17): Just to clarify - I do reduce the size first. But when the size reduces the cheatlines become jaggy. Then I sharpen. So the jaggies are not from sharpening.
What method are you using? I would recommend standard bicubic, not the bicubic sharpen (which says best for reductions but doesn't really give you any control).
JonathanJet From United States of America, joined Apr 2006, 64 posts, RR: 0 Reply 19, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 20 hours ago) and read 1547 times:
I tried to use the workflow above and have a question. What is the rubber that is used to erase the jaggies? I have CS2 not elements. Is it a different tool in Elements than CS2?
JonathanJet From United States of America, joined Apr 2006, 64 posts, RR: 0 Reply 20, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 19 hours ago) and read 1542 times:
WakeTurbulence From United States of America, joined Apr 2004, 1288 posts, RR: 18 Reply 21, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 19 hours ago) and read 1536 times:
That second AA edit looks a lot better to me. I live in SoCal and shoot often at LAX. I usually go on the weekends. If you're going why don't you message me and let me know. I don't know if I will be out this weekend but I will try.
-Matt
Dvincent From United States of America, joined Jan 2007, 1719 posts, RR: 12 Reply 22, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 19 hours ago) and read 1534 times:
The "rubber" is the eraser tool. It looks like an eraser and lives in the square below the clone stamp. It looks like you used the blur tool, which isn't what you wanted to do. It actually made it worse.
I suggest using the layer mask method. Select the sky with the magic wand, go to the menu and choose Select > Inverse, then choose Select > Modify > Expand, and enter 1 pixel. Then go to the layers palette, click your topmost layer, then press the Create Layer Mask button (white circle on top of black square in the bottom of the layers palette). This will make a mask that will show all the areas in white through. Apply your sharpening. Then select the pencil or brush tool and click on the mask. Then set the opacity of that tool to about 50%. Then start painting away the jagged edges by using that tool. Keep painting over them until you get the desired amount. If you used too much, just change to the eraser and wipe it away.
JonathanJet From United States of America, joined Apr 2006, 64 posts, RR: 0 Reply 23, posted (5 years 4 months 2 weeks 17 hours ago) and read 1525 times:
Thanks Dvincent! I didn't think that the blur was right, but I couldn't figure out the eraser. I'll do it again with your recommendation.
I live in Modesto, Ca. so SoCAL is out of the question as its 7+ hours away. If anyone is up here....SFO, SMF, MOD, OAK etc. I may be able to swing it on a weekend.
There is no point in creating a layer, sharpening then flattening.
To realise any benefit you create a layer, sharpen until you see evidence of oversharpening(jaggies etc) then either use the eraser to fade the sharpening or the more complex,but easy to use(yeah I know a tad paradoxical), method of hiding adjustments then painting them back again.
and a similarly useful one from JeffM on layer sharpening that I can't locate right now(when is the team going to start that Masterclass, Action forum?)
Cheers
Chris
Chris,
Thanks for all that. I have read the workflow before, but I think I need to learn more of PS (editing) rather than photography first. Thanks for that.
Quoting Eadster (Reply 14): My old photography mate, has beat me to it. There's no need to go that extra step if its not going to do any good. Follow what Chris has mentioned there, and you'll see how it goes. If you need further help or questions, let me know.
Thanks for that let me give it a go and get back to you soon mate.
Also I thank other fellows for their great tips.
[Edited 2008-01-09 16:26:51]
25 Dvincent: If you're ever around BDL or BOS, send me a PM and I'll see if I can arrange a one on one.
26 JonathanJet: Here is another edit of the AA T7 using the above workflow. It now seems to me to be even more oversharpened than the first photo. I agree the second
27 Dvincent: Exactly how much sharpen did you apply to it? The image certainly looks of better quality but the overall amount of sharpen seems too much. What exact
28 JonathanJet: I couldn't make your way work...to tell the truth. By the time I get to the sharpening I only have 1 "background" layer. I can't add a layer mask to i
29 Dvincent: You have to duplicate the layer... right click on the background and choose "duplicate layer." Then you have two layers. Make the mask on the top most
30 JonathanJet: DVincent, are these better? I feel like I'm understanding the editing. I will upload some soon! Thanks! Jonathan
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Can you just please explain more a bit.
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