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What Metering Mode Should I Use  
User currently offlineOthic From Sweden, joined Jun 2007, 171 posts, RR: 0
Posted (5 years 6 months 1 week 5 days 2 hours ago) and read 4797 times:

what metering mode should I use on my 40D+EF70-200 F4 IS for best effect?

/Othic


A boy learn's much more at the airport then he do at school
9 replies: All unread, jump to last
 
User currently offlineCpd From Australia, joined Jun 2008, 4879 posts, RR: 39
Reply 1, posted (5 years 6 months 1 week 5 days 2 hours ago) and read 4793 times:

Use some sort of centre weighted mode. (or better still, use a Nikon).      (j/k)

The idea being to meter the plane, and not the whole image (which seems to be unpredictable).

Did you change camera recently? I've noticed a lot of your replies to pre-screening threads, so you'd appear to know what you are doing.  

Regards,
Chris.

[Edited 2009-01-03 05:23:52]

[Edited 2009-01-03 05:26:41]

User currently offlineOthic From Sweden, joined Jun 2007, 171 posts, RR: 0
Reply 2, posted (5 years 6 months 1 week 5 days 1 hour ago) and read 4779 times:

I've use the 40D since september 2008


A boy learn's much more at the airport then he do at school
User currently offlineDazbo5 From United Kingdom, joined Mar 2005, 2860 posts, RR: 2
Reply 3, posted (5 years 6 months 1 week 4 days 20 hours ago) and read 4722 times:

I use evaluative on the 350D / 50D. I've found centre-weighted can lead to under exposed photos on a regular basis.

Darren



Equipment: 2x Canon EOS 50D; Sigma 10-20 EX DC HSM, 50-500 EX APO DG, Canon 24-105 f/4 L, Speedlite 430EX
User currently offlineFergulmcc From Ireland, joined Oct 2004, 1916 posts, RR: 53
Reply 4, posted (5 years 6 months 1 week 4 days 18 hours ago) and read 4704 times:



Quoting Othic (Thread starter):
what metering mode should I use on my 40D+EF70-200 F4 IS for best effect?

Ever used a grey card? Or even a light meter. What the camera is essentially metering is reflective light and not the light actually falling onto your subject. Its no different when shooting in a studio. I measure the light of each light source, (flash Head), and adjust them accordingly to what I need. With the sun you need to adjust the camera to suit, shutter speed etc. Do a search in the archives as this was discussed quite extensively in a thread a few years back and there was some very good explanations given.

Fergul  sun 



Zambian Airways, Where the Eagles fly free!!
User currently offlineSoon7x7 From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 5, posted (5 years 6 months 1 week 4 days 12 hours ago) and read 4661 times:



Quoting Dazbo5 (Reply 3):

I was fighting with that the other day...I decided to exercise my d2x and used the center weight option and I continously got under exposed images...so I played around with it till I corrected the trouble...The conditions were severe clear, bright reflections from aircraft...bottom line was the center weight on a crisp clear day was only reading the highlights off the fuselage and overcompensated everything else...


User currently offlineCpd From Australia, joined Jun 2008, 4879 posts, RR: 39
Reply 6, posted (5 years 6 months 1 week 4 days 11 hours ago) and read 4653 times:

I don't have the problem of under-exposure - I use manual control on my Nikon for the very purpose that I dislike both the matrix and centre weighted modes.

The photo preview will show overexposed areas, and you have the histogram as well to help you.


User currently offlineDazbo5 From United Kingdom, joined Mar 2005, 2860 posts, RR: 2
Reply 7, posted (5 years 6 months 1 week 4 days 2 hours ago) and read 4612 times:



Quoting Soon7x7 (Reply 5):
reading the highlights off the fuselage and overcompensated everything else...

That's why I've found evaluative a better option than centre weighted. Canon SLR's do a pretty good job. Canon's have a tendancy to over expose and blow highlights slightly in bright conditions so I always dial in -1/3 to -2/3 of a stop of exposure compensation on bright days. Apart from that, it's always worked well for me. The 350D sometimes got it a bit wrong but the 50D is impressive so far. I use manual sometimes but when lighting is constantly changing, I prefer to let the camera do the work.

Darren



Equipment: 2x Canon EOS 50D; Sigma 10-20 EX DC HSM, 50-500 EX APO DG, Canon 24-105 f/4 L, Speedlite 430EX
User currently offlineSoon7x7 From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 8, posted (5 years 6 months 1 week 3 days 9 hours ago) and read 4524 times:



Quoting Dazbo5 (Reply 7):

I pretty much worked out the way you mentioned, what gets me is that I had purchased a d300 as a back up camera , but having been using the d2x the other day, I found they both shoot differently so I have to rethink what I'm doing when I change bodies...The d2x does not seem to have the latitude that the d300 has...so I will have to go in and custom set the cameras...Digitals are a pain...j


User currently offlineMichlis From United States of America, joined Jul 2007, 737 posts, RR: 2
Reply 9, posted (5 years 6 months 1 week 3 days 1 hour ago) and read 4484 times:



Quoting Cpd (Reply 1):
(or better still, use a Nikon).

Why? Come to the dark side...you do not know the power of the dark side.

With my 20D what I use for metering depends on shooting conditions. Most of the time I use Evaluative, however, when dealing with a lot of backlighting (especially with the sun illuminating an overcast day) I find center-weighted works better.



If you know the enemy and know yourself, you need not fear the outcome of a hundred battles.
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