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Question On Sharpening.....  
User currently offlineJThompson From Australia, joined Mar 2009, 21 posts, RR: 0
Posted (6 years 2 weeks 8 hours ago) and read 6879 times:

Hi all,

I have been reading the Masterclass thread and other's on Sharpening, where a lot of people use multiple passes at the same percentage of USM, or different percentages of USM.

My question is, does everyone that uses this method Expand before each new pass, as Fergul describes in his Tutorial, if so, by how much, Fergul says by "1", is this the general rule of thumb?,......also, is this all done on the one Duplicate Layer, or are there more than one Duplicate Layer being used?

Any help on the process of this will be very much appreciated.


12 replies: All unread, jump to last
User currently offlineNicolasRubio From Argentina, joined Sep 2005, 585 posts, RR: 3
Reply 1, posted (6 years 2 weeks 8 hours ago) and read 6866 times:

I use an action I made up myself by following a tutorial I once read. It goes something like this:

- Duplicate layer
- Select all and copy
- Create alpha channel
- Paste
- Filter -> Stylize -> Find edges
- Bump up the levels to get things "blacker"
- Select with the tool that is to the left (first one) where the trash can to delete layers is
- Invert selection
- Delete the channel
- Go to the duplicated layer, apply USM to your personal taste
- Select none
- Flatten image

Hope it helps!

Gripped 7D + Sigma 10-20mm + 17-40L + 50mm f/1.8 II + 70-200mm f/4L IS + EF 400mm f/5.6L + 580EX II
User currently offlineLOCsta From United States of America, joined Sep 2006, 306 posts, RR: 7
Reply 2, posted (6 years 1 week 6 days 19 hours ago) and read 6810 times:
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I haven't read the tutorial you are refering too, but each pass of sharpening should be done on its own layer so you can erase any parts from that specific layer that become over sharpened after the action is completed. Expanding or contracting the selection between layers is to prevent a noticable "line" where the sharpened areas meet the non sharpened areas.

Hope that helps!



Missed 4 chasing 1
User currently offlineRonS From United States of America, joined Feb 2009, 763 posts, RR: 21
Reply 3, posted (6 years 1 week 6 days 13 hours ago) and read 6779 times:

Yep, that's what I do. Create the Duplicate Layer, Expand by 1 pixel. Then do my Sharpening (in my case Smart Sharpen). Basically every time now I run the eraser around the edges and fuselage to erase any jaggies, even if I don't really see any. I just always do it as routing because I hate getting a jaggie rejection. In the rare case I need more sharpening, I create another Duplicate Layer and add a little more.

All opinions expressed by me are my own opinions & do not represent the opinions in any way of my employers.
User currently offlineJThompson From Australia, joined Mar 2009, 21 posts, RR: 0
Reply 4, posted (6 years 1 week 6 days 7 hours ago) and read 6734 times:

Thank you everyone for the information and advice!

That makes it a lot clearer for me what the process is.


User currently offlineKlemmi85 From Germany, joined Mar 2009, 214 posts, RR: 0
Reply 5, posted (6 years 1 week 6 days 6 hours ago) and read 6715 times:

One more thing...
If you don't want to worry about jagged edges, try this:

Open your original image,
duplicate Layer
apply highpass filter with 1-3px (depends on picture, just try)
set highpass layer to "soft light" within the blending modes.

To get a stronger result, just duplicate the highpass layer again until you are satisfied.

I do sharpening only that way as it doesn't come up with the jagged edges. Keep in mind that you can get halos at high contrast edges if your highpass pixel setting is to high. Depending on image size, anything more than 8-10px makes the result unusable.

If there are further questions, feel free to post.

User currently offlineJThompson From Australia, joined Mar 2009, 21 posts, RR: 0
Reply 6, posted (6 years 1 week 6 days 5 hours ago) and read 6710 times:

Thanks Klemmi85, that is a process I have not come across!.......much appreciated.


User currently offlineJid From Barbados, joined Dec 2004, 977 posts, RR: 30
Reply 7, posted (6 years 1 week 6 days 5 hours ago) and read 6705 times:

Hi Jeff.

A couple of ways to sharpen here


On a similar tone to some of the above.


G7EPN is back after 15 years! Operating all Bands 80mtrs -> 70cms QRZ DX
User currently offlineJThompson From Australia, joined Mar 2009, 21 posts, RR: 0
Reply 8, posted (6 years 1 week 5 days 5 hours ago) and read 6629 times:

Thanks for the link Jid!......that is an excellent Tutorial.


User currently offlineCpd From Australia, joined Jun 2008, 4894 posts, RR: 36
Reply 9, posted (6 years 1 week 1 day 6 hours ago) and read 6527 times:

If you use Nikon and have Capture NX2, try the high-pass sharpening method in Capture NX2. It works very well. See the circled part in my screenshot:


To use it go to:

Adjust > Focus > High Pass

It will appear on the adjustments palette. Set the blending mode to overlay. When you export to Photoshop, you'll still have some scope to apply a bit extra sharpening once you've resized down to 1280px wide or whatever you are using if you need to, without making many jagged edges.

[Edited 2009-06-27 00:34:24]

User currently offlineJThompson From Australia, joined Mar 2009, 21 posts, RR: 0
Reply 10, posted (6 years 1 week 15 hours ago) and read 6469 times:

Thanks Cpd, but I'm actually using a Canon and its DPP and I don't think there are any similar setups like what you have shown there, but thanks a lot for the input, much appreciated!


User currently offlineDvincent From United States of America, joined Jan 2007, 1774 posts, RR: 10
Reply 11, posted (6 years 1 week 12 hours ago) and read 6449 times:

Make sure to set the sharpening layer to luminance blend mode so you don't get color fringing when sharpening...

From the Mind of Minolta
User currently offlineJThompson From Australia, joined Mar 2009, 21 posts, RR: 0
Reply 12, posted (6 years 6 days 14 hours ago) and read 6390 times:

Thanks for the tip Dvincent!!


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