HAL From United States of America, joined Jan 2002, 2599 posts, RR: 52 Posted (5 years 11 months 1 week 1 day ago) and read 6025 times:
I've taken a look through this forum, and couldn't find anything related to this. Is there really a difference between sharpening the image before the size reduction vs. after? Which method do you use and why? Thanks for any input.
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Aussie18 From Australia, joined Jun 2005, 1776 posts, RR: 9
Reply 2, posted (5 years 11 months 1 week 22 hours ago) and read 6004 times:
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My method is to resize to 1600pixels and add 100% @ 0.2 USM than resize to final size ie 1024pixels and add the final amount of USM @ 0.2,touch up soft areas with some selective sharpening and erase noticable jaggies.
Cpd From Australia, joined Jun 2008, 4903 posts, RR: 36
Reply 5, posted (5 years 11 months 1 week 22 hours ago) and read 5998 times:
Quoting Aussie18 (Reply 2): My method is to resize to 1600pixels and add 100% @ 0.2 USM than resize to final size ie 1024pixels and add the final amount of USM @ 0.2,touch up soft areas with some selective sharpening and erase noticable jaggies.
I remember a book by Martin Evening (Photoshop CS3) who advocated using different radius settings for different MP class cameras. For 12mp, he advocated 0.4 radius (on the 100% size image - not the scaled down version), but otherwise mirrored your process.
What he also did - which I also have adopted is using masks on the sharpen layer (created using find-edges feature) to make sure that only edges were sharpened and nothing else. This is a superb method that can be very useful on images with complicated backgrounds, it is a speedy way to avoid needing to mask out the plane itself. You can use a similar idea and create a noise-reduction layer that avoids losing edge detail.
He also advocated setting the sharpen layer as a smart layer. This means that filters like the smart sharpen work more like layer adjustments and can be readily changed as needed. This I don't feel is so critical, but someone might consider it useful.
He also mentioned the high-pass filter / soft-light layer sharpening method too. I would actually suggest that all the methods are useful in different circumstances, and you use whichever method is most suitable for the image you have.
I personally don't like multi-pass sharpening - I've tended to use a similar method to Clickhappy and others, but sometimes in bad conditions there is no other way - you need to sharpen the image in stages to get the desired results.
GPHOTO From United Kingdom, joined Aug 2004, 834 posts, RR: 23
Reply 6, posted (5 years 11 months 1 week 22 hours ago) and read 5987 times:
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Quoting Clickhappy (Reply 1): My workflow is very simple - sharpening is that last step I do before saving.
Same here. I've tried a few variations of when to sharpen, but this is the way I always return to. Sharpen last, using a layer.
Quoting Cpd (Reply 5): I remember a book by Martin Evening (Photoshop CS3) who advocated using different radius settings for different MP class cameras. For 12mp, he advocated 0.4 radius, but otherwise mirrored your process.
I recall when I moved from a 5 MP point-and-shoot to an 8 MP DSLR, I had to make significant changes to parts of my workflow. The reduction in the need for noise reduction was very welcome, but it was quite a while before I found a satisfactory group of settings for sharpening. My old settings produced images that were too soft. I tried increasing the amount of sharpening , but ultimately I also had to adjust the radius setting as well.
Jid From Barbados, joined Dec 2004, 977 posts, RR: 29
Reply 7, posted (5 years 11 months 1 week 20 hours ago) and read 5971 times:
HAL you have to remember that as part of the re-sizing process your graphic package will apply some form of sharpening. So unless you have a really soft image to start off with do your sharpening at the end of your workflow.
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