Conoramoia From Italy, joined Oct 2007, 482 posts, RR: 2 Posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 20 hours ago) and read 2933 times:
Hi all,
For the first time I will be going night spotting.I am going to Milan Bergamo to plane spot.
I know the locations and the airport very well but I need a few tips with regards to settings and the rest.
I know all the basics, ie ISO 100, F8.....(etc.)
Is there anything else I need to know?
I have a tripod and I'm going to shoot both in RAW and JPEG.
ThierryD From Luxembourg, joined Dec 2005, 1986 posts, RR: 54 Reply 1, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 19 hours ago) and read 2928 times:
AIRLINERS.NET CREW PHOTO SCREENER
Conor,
you already mentioned the basics: ISO100, high enough f-stop and a tripod.
Another thing you should watch out for is the white balance in order to compensate for the artificial lighting on the airport at night.
Also, though ISO100 is a good basic setup, you might want to consider increasing it a bit if your subject is likely to move and you don't have enough time for a long exposure.
If you have vibration reduction you should switch it off while shooting from a tripod as otherwise the camera (or lens) will try to compensate for movements which aren't there which will result in blurry shots.
Night shooting requires a bit more planning ahead than daylight shooting as there are no quick shots, so try to think about what will come next, so you'll be all set for the shot when the moment is right. This is of course not as important when you're photographing static objects.
Also look out for those special effects you may include in night shots (cars/people moving around, lights, etc) due to the long exposures.
ThierryD From Luxembourg, joined Dec 2005, 1986 posts, RR: 54 Reply 3, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 19 hours ago) and read 2914 times:
AIRLINERS.NET CREW PHOTO SCREENER
Quoting Conoramoia (Reply 2): Also I just wanted ot know, what would be the average shutter speed to get a plane taxiing at night?
You're in for some frustration, aren't you!?
No, seriously, getting a good shot of a taxiing plane at night is a pain in the butt. You'd need a shutter speed of, let's say, at least 1/80s to get a sharp shot. Now getting these 1/80s is almost only achievable if the subject is nicely lighted or you can use a high (1000+) ISO setting.
Of course you can try panning with shutter speeds below 1/80 but just as in daylight photography the amount of unusable shots will increase drastically.
A good, light sensitive lens will help a lot here of course.
Cpd From Australia, joined Jun 2008, 4765 posts, RR: 49 Reply 5, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 17 hours ago) and read 2884 times:
If you can pan smoothly with the tripod, then you might get some interesting shots - assuming the light is reasonable. But my guess is that with ISO200, you'll be disappointed with the results.
You'd probably need ISO1000 or above. I recently did some night photos. To get reasonable hand-held shutter speeds (eg, 1/60sec) I needed too use ISO2500/ISO3200 and F/4.0 on the lens (F/2.8 wasn't useful for the subject).
Conoramoia From Italy, joined Oct 2007, 482 posts, RR: 2 Reply 6, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 17 hours ago) and read 2883 times:
My camera will produce lots of grain with anything over 200 ISO,
I'll try some panning but maybe the best photo's I'll get will be of the parked planes.
Should I forget panning ang go for some light trails of planes landing?
Cpd From Australia, joined Jun 2008, 4765 posts, RR: 49 Reply 7, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 17 hours ago) and read 2876 times:
Try it out with some low value normal planes, there is little to lose - but don't get your hopes up. If you get there a bit earlier (when there is still a bit of normal light), you might achieve reasonable results.
I've never done panning with a tripod, mine is all hand-held or with a monopod. Maybe it might be easier using a tripod.
Otherwise, do the long exposure, parked plane photos as said before, and watch the white-balance. The lighting used at airports can make things tricky.
Conoramoia From Italy, joined Oct 2007, 482 posts, RR: 2 Reply 10, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 16 hours ago) and read 2861 times:
Quoting Whisperjet (Reply 9): If you intend to spot from the parking garage make sure that there are now cars passing by while shooting. They make the garage vibrate.
RonS From United States of America, joined Feb 2009, 751 posts, RR: 30 Reply 11, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 14 hours ago) and read 2834 times:
Yep, turn off your IS.
Quoting ThierryD (Reply 1): If you have vibration reduction you should switch it off
Quoting ThierryD (Reply 3): No, seriously, getting a good shot of a taxiing plane at night is a pain in the butt.
Oh yeah it is!
Quoting Conoramoia (Reply 2): I think the highest I'll go with ISO would be 200 considering I'll be using a 1000D.
Exactly, when you have the time always strive for ISO 100. Once and a while if you need it 200. I would think nothing more on our cameras (for anet uploading) I should say, I've tried.
Quoting Conoramoia (Reply 6): Should I forget panning ang go for some light trails of planes landing?
My opinion, if this is your first time, yes. But by all means try everything if you have the time.
My only thing thing to add is you may have trouble with the AF at night, be prepared to switch your lens to Manual and use the focus ring as best as you can. My lens sometimes has trouble focusing in auto for low light.
Also, if it's windy, try to block the camera / tripod from the wind as best you can to reduce shake. A vehicle, your body, etc.
Best of luck.
All opinions expressed by me are my own opinions & do not represent the opinions in any way of my employers.
Silver1SWA From United States of America, joined Mar 2004, 3896 posts, RR: 31 Reply 14, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 10 hours ago) and read 2771 times:
Quoting Conoramoia (Reply 6): My camera will produce lots of grain with anything over 200 ISO
Quoting Conoramoia (Reply 6): Should I forget panning ang go for some light trails of planes landing?
Conor,
Don't be afraid to try everything. Don't let airliners.net standards hold you back. Don't be afraid to push the limits. Boost that ISO if that is what is necessary for a well-exposed, sharp shot. My philosohpy is, do whatever I have to do for a sharp shot and deal with noise/grain later. I would rather have a sharp shot with grain than a clean shot that is blurry. If it doesn't measure up to airliners.net standards, oh well. You can still consider it a great shot. But you never know... You never know what trial and error will yield. Sure the keeper rate might be very, very low but hey if you come home with just one shot, something special, then it's well worth it.
ALL views, opinions expressed are mine ONLY and are NOT representative of those shared by Southwest Airlines Co.
Conoramoia From Italy, joined Oct 2007, 482 posts, RR: 2 Reply 15, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 9 hours ago) and read 2757 times:
Thanks everybody!
I so happy with all the adcvice!
As mention above,I'll keep an eye out for white balance,RAW+JPEG,ISO,wind...and all the rest!
Quoting Silver1SWA (Reply 14): Don't be afraid to try everything. Don't let airliners.net standards hold you back. Don't be afraid to push the limits. Boost that ISO if that is what is necessary for a well-exposed, sharp shot. My philosohpy is, do whatever I have to do for a sharp shot and deal with noise/grain later. I would rather have a sharp shot with grain than a clean shot that is blurry. If it doesn't measure up to airliners.net standards, oh well. You can still consider it a great shot. But you never know... You never know what trial and error will yield. Sure the keeper rate might be very, very low but hey if you come home with just one shot, something special, then it's well worth it.
WakeTurbulence From United States of America, joined Apr 2004, 1277 posts, RR: 21 Reply 16, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 9 hours ago) and read 2745 times:
Another tip: use live view if you can. On long exposures this will reduce mirror slap and hopefully give you sharper pictures due to less camera shake.
-Matt
Conoramoia From Italy, joined Oct 2007, 482 posts, RR: 2 Reply 17, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 9 hours ago) and read 2744 times:
Quoting WakeTurbulence (Reply 16): Another tip: use live view if you can. On long exposures this will reduce mirror slap and hopefully give you sharper pictures due to less camera shake
Really?
It's even harder to get it to focus though...
any past experiences with this?
Spencer From United Kingdom, joined Apr 2004, 1604 posts, RR: 24 Reply 18, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 8 hours ago) and read 2734 times:
Not sure why you'd want to shoot jpgs as well? But definitely, without a doubt, shoot RAW. You don't need to worry at all about the WB, it can be sorted in the conversion process. You haven't a timer but that's not a major problem really, as you said, just use the timer. If you're struggling for the correct exposure then try a reading in P, then dial it into M and make slight adjustments if needed. Or start off with an f/8 reading in Av, if that's your preference, and switch to M from there. There's also a rubber cover on the strap , I think in your case, that can be placed across the rear viewfinder, eliminating any light seeping in from behind. Another good point is, where you can, in windy conditions, shield the camera and keep the tripod low down.
Spence.
EOS1D4, 7D, 30D, 100-400/4.5-5.6 L IS USM, 70-200/2.8 L IS2 USM, 17-40 f4 L USM, 24-105 f4 L IS USM, 85 f1.8 USM
RonS From United States of America, joined Feb 2009, 751 posts, RR: 30 Reply 20, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 5 hours ago) and read 2704 times:
Quoting WakeTurbulence (Reply 16): On long exposures this will reduce mirror slap and hopefully give you sharper pictures due to less camera shake.
Good point. Conor, I forgot our cameras do have a mirror lock-up feature, accesible from the Custom Functions menu.
All opinions expressed by me are my own opinions & do not represent the opinions in any way of my employers.
UnattendedBag From United States of America, joined Oct 2003, 2110 posts, RR: 1 Reply 21, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 1 hour ago) and read 2670 times:
Quoting Spencer (Reply 18): Or start off with an f/8 reading in Av, if that's your preference, and switch to M from there.
For long, night time exposures, a wider f stop will suffice. I routinely shoot at f3.5 to achieve a higher shutter speed. Very helpful if the plane is getting ready to taxi on.
A smaller f stop (8-10) will cause the lights in the background to shine like stars and that can be very helpfull if you are seeing light ghosting or flare.
Astro777lover From United States of America, joined Nov 2008, 211 posts, RR: 1 Reply 22, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 1 hour ago) and read 2667 times:
Quoting UnattendedBag (Reply 21): A smaller f stop (8-10) will cause the lights in the background to shine like stars and that can be very helpfull if you are seeing light ghosting or flare.
What i have experience is that i use f/2.8 and go wide and let the plane do the work, but i am not usually right by the airport so it is dark where i am. Might be different if i was at the airport though.
Trial and error, that is what I learn by.
-Austin
Canon EOS 450D, Canon 70-200L 2.8 IS USM, Canon 580EX II
Dehowie From Australia, joined Feb 2004, 1023 posts, RR: 45 Reply 23, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 4 days 1 hour ago) and read 2667 times:
Quoting Hotplane (Reply 19): When I saw the title I thought you meant reading off registrations with binoculars or a scope. That is spotting after all isn't it?
I agree spotting is spotting i think we are talking about photography here.
God i hate being asked if im a plane spotter!
Ill leave that to the guys with notebooks and sharp pencils..
Cvervais From United States of America, joined Sep 2003, 597 posts, RR: 3 Reply 24, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 3 days 22 hours ago) and read 2644 times:
I recently went out for my first night shoot and at least with my setup (5D mkii 100-400 lens) if there's any kind of a breeze it's going to create enough shake to blur the images. If you can find a spot shielded from the wind then you should be ok.
Dehowie From Australia, joined Feb 2004, 1023 posts, RR: 45 Reply 26, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 3 days 17 hours ago) and read 2663 times:
Quoting Cpd (Reply 25): What with that arsenal of camera gear?
Yea with the 800 most people just go WTF!! lol...
Quoting Cvervais (Reply 24): I recently went out for my first night shoot and at least with my setup (5D mkii 100-400 lens) if there's any kind of a breeze it's going to create enough shake to blur the images. If you can find a spot shielded from the wind then you should be ok.
Think this is when good tripods really shine. I regularly use my Gitzo carbon pod in windy conditions without any major difficulty. The previous tripod i used a set of Manfrotto 055Pro legs worked really well with the ball head.
This shot was taken in about 20KPH worth of wind and its about a 10 sec exposure.
Good tripods are worth there weight and worth the extra expense.
I mean whats the point in wasting money on a tripod that doesnt work properley when you really need it.
Its the perfect example of saving money in the long run by spending more in the short run.
ThierryD From Luxembourg, joined Dec 2005, 1986 posts, RR: 54 Reply 28, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 3 days 8 hours ago) and read 2590 times:
AIRLINERS.NET CREW PHOTO SCREENER
Quoting Conoramoia (Reply 27): Also, what about taking cockpit shots when its dark?
Pretty easy: a tripod and a wide angle lens, that's about all you need.
Put the camera on the tripod (or gorillapod if you have one (very nice tool!)), select a high f-stop to avoid soft areas and shoot away.
Whisperjet From Germany, joined Nov 2007, 521 posts, RR: 10 Reply 29, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 3 days 7 hours ago) and read 2567 times:
AIRLINERS.NET CREW PHOTO SCREENER
Suppose you are flying Ryanair?
Forget about all what Thierry said, they won't let you use a tripod or a gorillapod, not even sure if they will let you have a look in the cockpit
You can try using the internal flash insted, but be careful not to overexpose. Also go for RAW and the lowest possible ISO.
UnattendedBag From United States of America, joined Oct 2003, 2110 posts, RR: 1 Reply 30, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 3 days 7 hours ago) and read 2563 times:
Quoting Cvervais (Reply 24): I recently went out for my first night shoot and at least with my setup (5D mkii 100-400 lens) if there's any kind of a breeze it's going to create enough shake to blur the images. If you can find a spot shielded from the wind then you should be ok.
That setup sounds like you were shooting with a giant windsail. If you were getting moderate winds, it might work to turn the image stabalization on.
Dehowie From Australia, joined Feb 2004, 1023 posts, RR: 45 Reply 31, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 3 days 6 hours ago) and read 2562 times:
Tripods in flight for approaches do not work and for almost all companies would be illegal as after landing the fact there not secured means they could fall on the console etc.
Pretty much everyone uses the Manfrotto magic arm..secured to a jump seat or other solid object.
Its pretty small easy to transport.
Gorilla pod may be ok in a non moving aircraft but it doesnt have the rigigdity needed for in flight shots.
Quoting UnattendedBag (Reply 30): That setup sounds like you were shooting with a giant windsail. If you were getting moderate winds, it might work to turn the image stabalization on.
100-400IS is not set up for tripod use. Over say a 10 sec exposure the image drifts as the gyro slowly moves. I think the 70-200IS is ok for tripod use but ive never tried it a good tripod doesnt need the use of IS to get sharp images unless where talking 40-50KPH worth of wind.
RonS From United States of America, joined Feb 2009, 751 posts, RR: 30 Reply 32, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 3 days 3 hours ago) and read 2559 times:
Thanks to Connor bringing up the topic of night shots, made me get out and try a few more. As a result of the one I took the other night, I had a question on glare or reflections.
Alot of times on my night shots I get green reflection glare or whatever you call it. For example below on pavement there are several round green reflections, and also on the lights on the wing, near the fuselage, there is a big glare spot. Also more reflections above the middle landing gear.
Curious why they occur, how to prevent them (use a lens hood?) and what to do with them now that they are there. Thanks.
Night shot with glare
All opinions expressed by me are my own opinions & do not represent the opinions in any way of my employers.
ThierryD From Luxembourg, joined Dec 2005, 1986 posts, RR: 54 Reply 33, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 2 days 23 hours ago) and read 2540 times:
AIRLINERS.NET CREW PHOTO SCREENER
Quoting Whisperjet (Reply 29): Suppose you are flying Ryanair?
Forget about all what Thierry said, they won't let you use a tripod or a gorillapod, not even sure if they will let you have a look in the cockpit Â
I was focused on shots on the ground...
Ok, now for inflight shots when your area of maneuverability is limited, you might indeed use a flash; personally though I don't like the results of cockpit night shots where the flash was used; it kills the moody atmosphere.
Quoting Dehowie (Reply 31): Gorilla pod may be ok in a non moving aircraft but it doesnt have the rigigdity needed for in flight shots.
All my inflight nightshots were taken with a Gorillapod
Oly720man From United Kingdom, joined May 2004, 6081 posts, RR: 12 Reply 34, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 2 days 16 hours ago) and read 2507 times:
Quoting RonS (Reply 32): Alot of times on my night shots I get green reflection glare or whatever you call it. For example below on pavement there are several round green reflections, and also on the lights on the wing, near the fuselage, there is a big glare spot. Also more reflections above the middle landing gear.
Curious why they occur, how to prevent them (use a lens hood?) and what to do with them now that they are there. Thanks.
Do you use a UV (or similar) filter at all?
The multiple reflections from the lights are probably due to internal reflection in the lens (or off a filter). A lens hood won't have any affect on this because that's to stop light from outside the field of view entering the lens.
Man City p3 w3 d0 l0 f4 a0 P9 - hey it may never happen again!
RonS From United States of America, joined Feb 2009, 751 posts, RR: 30 Reply 35, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 2 days 15 hours ago) and read 2487 times:
Quoting Oly720man (Reply 34): Do you use a UV (or similar) filter at all?
Yes, I always use a UV Haze Filter, either B&W or Tiffen. Should I or not? thanks
All opinions expressed by me are my own opinions & do not represent the opinions in any way of my employers.
Oly720man From United Kingdom, joined May 2004, 6081 posts, RR: 12 Reply 37, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 2 days 14 hours ago) and read 2484 times:
Quoting RonS (Reply 35): Yes, I always use a UV Haze Filter, either B&W or Tiffen. Should I or not? thanks
This'll be your problem. Light will be reflected off the front element of the lens and then back off the filter into the lens, but displaced, hence the offset "ghost" lights.
You probably won't notice this most of the time because the ambient light will be brighter than any reflected light.
Man City p3 w3 d0 l0 f4 a0 P9 - hey it may never happen again!
RonS From United States of America, joined Feb 2009, 751 posts, RR: 30 Reply 38, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 2 days 14 hours ago) and read 2483 times:
Quoting Oly720man (Reply 37): Light will be reflected off the front element of the lens and then back off the filter into the lens, but displaced, hence the offset "ghost" lights.
Quoting Othic (Reply 36): U should not use any type of filter
I did not know this. I'll give it a try, but knowing my luck, I'll hit the lens without the protective filter on it. Hope not though
All opinions expressed by me are my own opinions & do not represent the opinions in any way of my employers.
RonS From United States of America, joined Feb 2009, 751 posts, RR: 30 Reply 40, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 2 days 13 hours ago) and read 2471 times:
Quoting Whisperjet (Reply 39): I don't use a filter on my Canon 100-400 and yet I do have the same ghost lights on my pictures.
Oh well, thought I had a perfect answer, but I still might give it a try, see if it helps. I'm using the 70-200 mostly, not that bad on my 28-105 and pretty horrible on my 50MM 1.8.
Stefan, what do you do with these ghost lights when you have them in your photos? Thanks.
All opinions expressed by me are my own opinions & do not represent the opinions in any way of my employers.
UnattendedBag From United States of America, joined Oct 2003, 2110 posts, RR: 1 Reply 41, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 2 days 13 hours ago) and read 2467 times:
Quoting RonS (Reply 32): how to prevent them (use a lens hood?)
a lens hood protects the lens from lights outside the field of view. I believe the only way to combat this is to photograph the aircraft from a different angle. You are too close to the "front" of the beam of light. ie. imagine shining a flashlight directly at the camera, now move to the side of the flashlight. That's what you need to do.
Dehowie From Australia, joined Feb 2004, 1023 posts, RR: 45 Reply 42, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 1 day 23 hours ago) and read 2417 times:
Quoting RonS (Reply 32): Alot of times on my night shots I get green reflection glare or whatever you call it. For example below on pavement there are several round green reflections, and also on the lights on the wing, near the fuselage, there is a big glare spot. Also more reflections above the middle landing gear.
Curious why they occur, how to prevent them (use a lens hood?) and what to do with them now that they are there. Thanks.
Ok the green reflections occur with lenses which do not have an ani reflective coating on their rear element.
What happens is when the shutter opens light reflects from the SLR sensor back onto the rear lens element and then back to the sensor.
I know the Canon super teles like the 300/2.8 500F4 have an anti reflective rear element coating.
This stops these green reflections from occuring.
Its not caused by filters...
Quoting ThierryD (Reply 33): All my inflight nightshots were taken with a Gorillapod
Pretty stunned you could that quality out of a gorillapod. Great work..
Have you had much success on approach shots with the aircraft vibrating etc with flap deployed?
Also Thierry are you using an IS equipped lens??
Cvervais From United States of America, joined Sep 2003, 597 posts, RR: 3 Reply 44, posted (2 years 3 months 1 week 1 day 1 hour ago) and read 2332 times:
Quoting Dehowie (Reply 26): Think this is when good tripods really shine. I regularly use my Gitzo carbon pod in windy conditions without any major difficulty. The previous tripod i used a set of Manfrotto 055Pro legs worked really well with the ball head.
This shot was taken in about 20KPH worth of wind and its about a 10 sec exposure
Nice shot. I'll have to look into that tripod setup. I've just not had much need for one until recently.
Conoramoia From Italy, joined Oct 2007, 482 posts, RR: 2 Reply 46, posted (2 years 3 months 9 hours ago) and read 2142 times:
Hi guys,
I'm back and I did go spotting at night but I didn't get the chance to get a flight deck shot!
Anyway to see my first edit at a photo please go to my flickr via my profile.
See what you think,
Silver1SWA From United States of America, joined Mar 2004, 3896 posts, RR: 31 Reply 47, posted (2 years 3 months 9 hours ago) and read 2131 times:
Quoting Conoramoia (Reply 46): Anyway to see my first edit at a photo please go to my flickr via my profile.
See what you think,
It looks good, but you have disabled the option for us to view the larger size. Of course, if you are interested in feedback regarding acceptance we would have to see the full sized edit.
ALL views, opinions expressed are mine ONLY and are NOT representative of those shared by Southwest Airlines Co.
BTW, just saw your photo of the southwest 737 taking off during the golden hour, the one you had a little trouble with cropping.Great shot and glad it got accepted!
Astro777lover From United States of America, joined Nov 2008, 211 posts, RR: 1 Reply 49, posted (2 years 3 months 9 hours ago) and read 2124 times:
Quoting Silver1SWA (Reply 47):
It looks good, but you have disabled the option for us to view the larger size. Of course, if you are interested in feedback regarding acceptance we would have to see the full sized edit.
yes looks good small but we will see when we see full size
Canon EOS 450D, Canon 70-200L 2.8 IS USM, Canon 580EX II
Yes, that worked. I would say the photo looks soft, maybe a little blurry. Try giving an extra kick of sharpness and see how that works out. Aircraft is a little low in the frame for my taste. Great shot though. I really like the star effect on the lights.
Quoting Conoramoia (Reply 48): BTW, just saw your photo of the southwest 737 taking off during the golden hour, the one you had a little trouble with cropping.Great shot and glad it got accepted!
Thank you.
ALL views, opinions expressed are mine ONLY and are NOT representative of those shared by Southwest Airlines Co.
Conoramoia From Italy, joined Oct 2007, 482 posts, RR: 2 Reply 51, posted (2 years 3 months 8 hours ago) and read 2100 times:
Quoting Silver1SWA (Reply 50):
Yes, that worked. I would say the photo looks soft, maybe a little blurry. Try giving an extra kick of sharpness and see how that works out. Aircraft is a little low in the frame for my taste. Great shot though. I really like the star effect on the lights.
Okay, will take a look at it a later stage as I'm about to turn off the computer!
Bertoli From Brazil, joined Jan 2006, 4 posts, RR: 0 Reply 53, posted (2 years 2 months 4 weeks 1 day 12 hours ago) and read 2029 times:
Quoting Whisperjet (Reply 52): The colours look off to me. There is a strong red cast.
Yes, although the white balance seems to be ok. Normally, the sodium vapor lights used on airport illumination distorts the colors a little bit. So, color reproduction on night shots can be really tricky.
What I did , to get the correct color reproduction, is to shoot in RAW and create a color profile to apply on the photo when working on Camera RAW or Lightroom.
The calibration procedure consists in photograping a color checker and creating the profile with "Adobe DNG profile editor " software (available for free download at Adobe labs site).
The difference is pretty significative.
As we can see, images speaks for themselves.
There's a lot of tutorials explaining how to make this calibration. It's an easy procedure and brings excellent results.
Astro777lover From United States of America, joined Nov 2008, 211 posts, RR: 1 Reply 54, posted (2 years 2 months 3 weeks 6 days 4 hours ago) and read 1868 times:
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