FX772LRF From United States of America, joined Apr 2009, 675 posts, RR: 12
Reply 3, posted (5 years 1 month 2 weeks 8 hours ago) and read 3080 times:
I have a Nikon D60, essentially a D40 with a better sensor. Easiest thing to do for sunny days is to set the camera to "A" mode, which is Aperture Priority, and set the aperture to f/8. Then the camera would let the shutter speed fluctuate to compensate for shadows, backlighting, and such.
Also, as Othic said, ISO100 and don't forget to white balance! It'll help your photos a lot if you white balance before shooting. For sunny as you said, you'd be best off with the "Sunny" white balance setting.
I hope this helps.
Cleared to IAH via CLL 076 radial/BAZBL/RIICE3, up to 3k, 7k in 10, departure on 134.3, squawk 4676, Colgan 9581.
RonS From United States of America, joined Feb 2009, 762 posts, RR: 22
Reply 4, posted (5 years 1 month 2 weeks 8 hours ago) and read 3064 times:
I would have to ask two questions first. What are you trying to photograph, a moving aircraft or static aircraft?
What is your experience with moving aircraft if that is what you are trying to photograph?
If it is limited and you are a begginer at shooting moving aircraft, I would increase the ISO to 200 and drop the f a little bit, to get a higher shutter speed, around 1/1000th would be ideal.
Do this to get your timing down tracking the movement of a high speed aircraft and to learn how to steady the lens/camera. This will reduce your rejections from motion blur of the aircraft and I believe to an extent lens blur because the shutter is released very quickly.
Sun to your back at first also.
After you get used to this and get some keepers, I would then work on inproving the quality of your keepers, as those above have said, dropping the ISO to 100 and getting the f to 8, etc.
Static, same setting as Othic mentioned.
White Balance IMO to Auto.
Post what lens you have too.
All opinions expressed by me are my own opinions & do not represent the opinions in any way of my employers.
Cpd From Australia, joined Jun 2008, 4881 posts, RR: 37
Reply 8, posted (5 years 1 month 2 weeks 1 hour ago) and read 3021 times:
Quoting RonS (Reply 6):
Regarding the WB, if you're shooting in RAW this can easily be switched / corrected in Post Processing, that's why I shoot in AWB, it's approx 90% accurate IMO.
Not always. It can be confused. I use around 4550K in day light, 5050K in cloudy conditions. That normally gets close to the desired results. If it doesn't get what I want, the correction needed in Camera Raw is usually not very big.
Silver1SWA From United States of America, joined Mar 2004, 4860 posts, RR: 25
Reply 10, posted (5 years 1 month 2 weeks 1 hour ago) and read 3018 times:
In my experience, different cameras handle AWB differently. AWB on my 400D is pretty darn accurate, but on my 40D, it makes images way too cool (blue) for my taste. I prefer warmer images.
As stated already with RAW you can alter the WB settings after the image has been captured and that is one of the greatest benefits of shooting RAW. I have recently gotten in the habbit of setting custome white balance though. Very easy and if done right, very accurate.
[Edited 2009-11-08 18:28:17]
ALL views, opinions expressed are mine ONLY and are NOT representative of those shared by Southwest Airlines Co.
UnitedJumboJet From United States of America, joined Jun 2008, 77 posts, RR: 0
Reply 12, posted (5 years 1 month 1 week 6 days 5 hours ago) and read 2951 times:
Remember that the D40 doesn't have manual white balance.
My setting: On a sunny day, use aperture-priority mode. Set to ISO 200, aperture to f/8, and let the camera pick the shutter speed. Make sure it's around 1/500 or higher.
As for the other stuff, the info in the shooting info display:
Remember, to change the settings press the zoom in button (+) and use the arrow pad.
QUAL: I personally like to shoot RAW, pick whatever you use.
White balance: Set to whatever the lighting is, usually daylight (the sun logo)
Shooting mode: Continuous [ ]]]
Focus mode: AF-continuous servo(AF-C)
AF area mode; Dynamic area [+[ ]+]
Metering: I use matrix personally(the top one)
Flash compensation: I normally don't use flash for aviation
Exposure comp: if the camera over or underexposes, use this. I usually set to -0.3 as my default.
Flash mode: I don't use flash for aviation
AF- Set this to A or M/A normally, manual focus(M) is usually a last resort for aviation
VR(if your lens has this)-On. However if it's on a tripod turn it off.