Redcoat78 From Italy, joined May 2006, 64 posts, RR: 0 Posted (2 years 10 months 2 weeks 5 days 6 hours ago) and read 2821 times:
Hi to everyone,
is there here anyone that is well experienced on shooting aerial photography (cabin, cockpit and window view, air to air) on board helicopters?
I will be taking a ride very soon and I wonder which parameters could I use. Please note that I would bring with me a first body equipped with Sigma 10-20 (for cabin and cockpit views), and a Canon 100-400USM IS mounted on a second body.
N51 From United States of America, joined May 2009, 6 posts, RR: 0 Reply 1, posted (2 years 10 months 2 weeks 4 days 22 hours ago) and read 2794 times:
Make sure you have for flash with you for the cabin shots (preferreably an external flash so that you don't catch the lens shadow on your 10-20. You'll be able to get cabin shots without the flash, but you'll need your aperature so far open that you'll overexpose the view out the window. To get the best shot, set your exposure based on the view out the window, and then use the fill flash to light up the cabin. (You should also clear the use of flash in flight with the pilot before you take off too!)
RonS From United States of America, joined Feb 2009, 761 posts, RR: 24 Reply 2, posted (2 years 10 months 2 weeks 4 days 11 hours ago) and read 2742 times:
If you're planning on Air to Air find out if you're shooting out an open window, or through the window. Through the window, attempt to clean the window.
I've only done heli shooting once, but I used higher Shutter Speeds than normal, and higher ISO to get the higher shutter speeds, along with IS.
Get close to the glass as possible. At times I would put a filter equipped lens right against the glass.
Don't be afraid to tell the pilots exactly what you want to shoot and how you want to shoot, but do so beforehand. If there is any type of safety briefing, tell them then, not during flight ot during the loud conditions.
All opinions expressed by me are my own opinions & do not represent the opinions in any way of my employers.
Philthy From Australia, joined May 2005, 123 posts, RR: 1 Reply 3, posted (2 years 10 months 2 weeks 4 days 9 hours ago) and read 2725 times:
Quoting RonS (Reply 2): At times I would put a filter equipped lens right against the glass.
Mate: be very careful! The windows are plastic, not glass. Bung your lens up against it and you will scratch it! Especially if you're using a filter with a milled edge. This is a sure way to piss off your pilot/heli owner.
When I'm doing this I either make sure the lens doesn't touch the transparency, or I put my hand on the window and hold the tip of the lens so it doesn't touch.
Redcoat78 From Italy, joined May 2006, 64 posts, RR: 0 Reply 4, posted (2 years 10 months 2 weeks 4 days 4 hours ago) and read 2708 times:
thanks everyone for very useful info.
In fact my worst concern is to avoid to get o/b and once on air realize that cabin shots are over or underexposed. I own a Canon Flash that I will bring too. Thanks N51, in fact I wonder how this photo has been taken
I am not still sure which helicopter I will be flying on, it could be NH500 or AB412 (both from It. Forestry Dpt.). I will ask the pilots all my needs before take-off for sure! I wont be blamed for something especially when related to safety issues...
Thanks Bottie, great shot! Do you also suggest to use manual focus? For exposure I will try to exercise at home by shooting a window with exterior light and lower light inside, could be a worthy exercise?
How will you set your exposure on exterior light?
Measure light at the lightest point with the aperture you want to use then dial given numbers exp. time and aperture into manual mode.
With an UWA lens aperture isn't very important in relation to DOF so keep it fairly wide to reduce exp. time.
Switch on flash.
Keep camera up side down, Canon like all others have mounted the flash shoe on the wrong side of the camera as there is enough light from above but not enough from below so that is where you need to flash.
You can also use a flash cord to be more flexable.
Use an omni bounce for a more even exposure and softer light.
Stop the flash down somewhere between 1 and 2 stops.
Try the procedure a few times and you can't go wrong.
Oh... leave the 100-400 home, it's way to big for a cramped chopper.
Something like a 24-105 or 24-70 will do just fine.
The truth lives in one’s mind, it doesn’t really exist
Redcoat78 From Italy, joined May 2006, 64 posts, RR: 0 Reply 15, posted (2 years 10 months 2 weeks 1 day 17 hours ago) and read 2525 times:
Quoting Aviopic (Reply 11): Keep camera up side down, Canon like all others have mounted the flash shoe on the wrong side of the camera as there is enough light from above but not enough from below so that is where you need to flash.
In most cases light is coming from above, outside that will be the sun.
But also inside an aircraft the upper half is usually light enough because that's where the windows are.
Which is why I keep my camera up side down so the flash is pointing where light is needed most, the bottom half.
A 1D series camera or a vertical grip does make it easier to do.
You can also operate the camera as usual and use a flash extension cord which enables you to keep the flash anywhere you want.
Something you can also do with your wireless flash of course.
Quoting Redcoat78 (Reply 14): Which is the best way to exercise at home? As said by GavinConroy sitting on the back of my car and taking shots of the dashboard?
Gavin gave you a perfect exercise tool.
The truth lives in one’s mind, it doesn’t really exist