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Any Smart Way Of Downsizing?  
User currently offlineBogac From Turkey, joined Oct 2009, 52 posts, RR: 0
Posted (2 years 3 months 21 hours ago) and read 6267 times:

Hi... Do you guys use a special technique while downsizing? As I resize my images, mostly jagged edges appear and I wonder whether there's a smart way of doing this.

9 replies: All unread, jump to last
 
User currently offlinevikkyvik From United States of America, joined Jul 2003, 10350 posts, RR: 26
Reply 1, posted (2 years 3 months 21 hours ago) and read 6262 times:

Quoting Bogac (Thread starter):
Hi... Do you guys use a special technique while downsizing? As I resize my images, mostly jagged edges appear and I wonder whether there's a smart way of doing this.

Are you resizing using Bicubic Sharper? That could do it.

I don't use any special technique. Just resize using regular Bicubic (not Smoother or Sharper).



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User currently offlineBogac From Turkey, joined Oct 2009, 52 posts, RR: 0
Reply 2, posted (2 years 3 months 19 hours ago) and read 6249 times:

Yes, I do use Bicubic sharper as well. But I was wondering whether it would be better to downsize by let's say 10% intervals rather than just downsizing in a single step.

User currently offlinemjgbtv From United States of America, joined Jan 2008, 919 posts, RR: 0
Reply 3, posted (2 years 3 months 16 hours ago) and read 6222 times:

Some people recommend downsizing in stages. I have been trying that lately, but I am not convinced that the results are any different than a single step.

User currently offlineKaphias From United States of America, joined Nov 2010, 315 posts, RR: 0
Reply 4, posted (2 years 3 months 11 hours ago) and read 6188 times:

Quoting Bogac (Reply 2):
Yes, I do use Bicubic sharper as well. But I was wondering whether it would be better to downsize by let's say 10% intervals rather than just downsizing in a single step.

I think what Vik is saying is that you DON'T want to use Bicubic Sharper. Just use normal Bicubic.



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User currently offlinevikkyvik From United States of America, joined Jul 2003, 10350 posts, RR: 26
Reply 5, posted (2 years 3 months 10 hours ago) and read 6182 times:

Quoting Kaphias (Reply 4):
I think what Vik is saying is that you DON'T want to use Bicubic Sharper. Just use normal Bicubic.

Sorry, yes, I realize now my post may have been unclear.

Try NOT using Bicubic Sharper. Use regular Bicubic, and that should help. I use regular Bicubic, and I've basically never had an issue during resize.



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User currently offlineBogac From Turkey, joined Oct 2009, 52 posts, RR: 0
Reply 6, posted (2 years 3 months 9 hours ago) and read 6173 times:

Thank you vikkyvik and Kaphias. The post was clear but it seems my mind wasn't...  

User currently offlinen314as From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 7, posted (2 years 2 months 3 weeks 6 days 4 hours ago) and read 5960 times:

First - I hope you are shooting raw and then working from there.

I have a technique that I use when I scan slides which can also be used for digital and it helps with the compression
level depending on a shot - also helps when printing - and all you need is slight sharpening.

If you want to make a photo for a 4x6 and also for the internet, bring it down to 1024 across at 72 dpi
For an 8x10 or 8x12, then double that at 2048 across at 144 dpi
for a 12x18, increase it again to 3072 across at around 250 dpi

and so forth.

What this does is that it keeps the compression level for each size so when you sharpen it, it will look good,
If you make a 4x6 print from a raw image, the print will be very soft because the pixels do not match the size.
This is a general rule I use when doing prints to customers. I hope that helps a little.....

and always keep the raw file. A smart thing to do is to name the raw file and do a second file at 1024x762 at 72 dpi
(the smaller one) for 4x6 prints and internet resolution.


User currently offlineNewark727 From United States of America, joined Dec 2009, 1368 posts, RR: 0
Reply 8, posted (2 years 2 months 2 weeks 7 hours ago) and read 5394 times:

I use Bicubic Sharper exclusively on my first pass, which is down to 2048 pixels since that's the size I save my raw files as .jpgs with. That's mostly out of habit learned in different photoshop applications such as textures for computer aided design- it just happens to be the method I use in my "push button to resize" action, which also happens to be the action that ensures that the resolution and dimensions in inches don't get all out of whack when I'm enforcing a 3:2 aspect ratio in the crop phase. When I have a photo that might fly on a.net, it has to be smaller, and on that second resize I pretty much use Bicubic Sharper as well, but I do try the regular Bicubic when I'm concerned about details that only have a few pixels' worth of real estate in the entire image and I want to make sure they come out correctly.

n314as has some interesting ideas though, I might have to take a look at that.

Also, my current accept/reject ratio is at 52% so take that into consideration before implementing any of my advice.  


User currently offlinevikkyvik From United States of America, joined Jul 2003, 10350 posts, RR: 26
Reply 9, posted (2 years 2 months 1 week 6 days 21 hours ago) and read 5352 times:

Quoting n314as (Reply 7):
If you want to make a photo for a 4x6 and also for the internet, bring it down to 1024 across at 72 dpi
For an 8x10 or 8x12, then double that at 2048 across at 144 dpi
for a 12x18, increase it again to 3072 across at around 250 dpi

I have to admit, I don't understand this. As far as resolution on a screen goes, you just resize to whatever resolution you want; you don't need to specify DPI, as it'll display at whatever DPI your screen is.

As far as printing, wouldn't you tell them what DPI you want? Like, if I wanted an 8" print at 200 DPI, I'd supply a 1600-pixel image....

Anyway, if someone can explain, I'd be most grateful.



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