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User currently offlineCJMoeser From United States of America, joined Jun 2013, 138 posts, RR: 0
Posted (1 year 4 months 2 days 6 hours ago) and read 2754 times:

Hi all,

I am new to Airliners.net and I've been spotting at Boise Air Termanial/Gowen Feild (KBOI) for about a year now. I have some pretty decent spots, and it is diverse with the type of aircraft that flies in and out. When I go out there, there are always Alaska/Horizon Q400's landing and taking off, but I can never get the props spinning in the picture. I have a Pentax K-30, and use a 50-200MM lense. I would appreciate any tips on how to get better photos! And is there a better way to capture heat haze coming off the engines during take-off or landing?

Thanks a ton!

6 replies: All unread, jump to last
 
User currently offlinedazbo5 From United Kingdom, joined Mar 2005, 2921 posts, RR: 2
Reply 1, posted (1 year 4 months 2 days 3 hours ago) and read 2716 times:

Quoting CJMoeser (Thread starter):
I can never get the props spinning in the picture

How much do you know about the exposure triangle? The trick to prop blur is using a slow shutter speed. Is something like this what you're trying to achieve?


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Photo © Darren Wilson
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Click here for bigger photo!

Photo © Darren Wilson



You'll need to use a slow shutter speed, say 1/100th and pan the camera to match the speed of the aircraft to avoid motion blur. It's a technique that takes some practice, you'll not master it over night.

Quoting CJMoeser (Thread starter):
is there a better way to capture heat haze coming off the engines during take-off or landing?

You can only capture what is present. Winter months is better for capturing that when it's more apparent.

Darren



Equipment: 2x Canon EOS 50D; Sigma 10-20 EX DC HSM, 50-500 EX APO DG, Canon 24-105 f/4 L, Speedlite 430EX
User currently offlineclickhappy From United States of America, joined Sep 2001, 9644 posts, RR: 68
Reply 2, posted (1 year 4 months 2 days 1 hour ago) and read 2683 times:
AIRLINERS.NET CREW
PHOTO SCREENER

If it is bright sunshine you will need to either stop the lens down, or use a neutral density filter.

The results are worth the effort


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Photo © Royal S King



User currently offlineCJMoeser From United States of America, joined Jun 2013, 138 posts, RR: 0
Reply 3, posted (1 year 4 months 2 days 1 hour ago) and read 2677 times:

Thanks for the replies, and Yes, that is what I am trying to achieve. I'll try it next time I'll go down there! Another question I have is how would I make the photo pop and have a lot of color in it like photos on here have? Do you use photoshop or is it a setting with the Camera?

Thanks a ton for the help so far!


User currently offlinedazbo5 From United Kingdom, joined Mar 2005, 2921 posts, RR: 2
Reply 4, posted (1 year 4 months 2 days 1 hour ago) and read 2672 times:

Quoting CJMoeser (Reply 3):
how would I make the photo pop and have a lot of color in it like photos on here have?

It's all in the lighting. If you don't have the light, no matter what you do, you'll not get the results you're looking for. Always try and have the sun (light) behind you so it illuminates the subject properly. Avoid shooting towards the light (back lighting). This will result in the subject being dark or the background being blown out. It's all in the planning of a shot. Choose your location to give you the best lighting possible. This may change throughout the day.

Don't rely on Photoshop to save the day, get it right in camera as far as possible.

Darren



Equipment: 2x Canon EOS 50D; Sigma 10-20 EX DC HSM, 50-500 EX APO DG, Canon 24-105 f/4 L, Speedlite 430EX
User currently offlineCJMoeser From United States of America, joined Jun 2013, 138 posts, RR: 0
Reply 5, posted (1 year 4 months 1 day 18 hours ago) and read 2637 times:

Ok Next time I go out to BOI, I'll try that! My friend is going to let me use one of his filters, so hopefully that will make a difference! Thanks so much!!

User currently offlineangad84 From India, joined Nov 2012, 894 posts, RR: 1
Reply 6, posted (1 year 3 months 4 weeks 1 day 12 hours ago) and read 2532 times:

PSA: stopping down makes dust/dirt on the sensor very apparent in your images, while shooting wide open all but eliminates their effect. Just something to keep in mind.

When I'm shooting for blur, the first thing I adjust is ISO. If I have my polarizer with me, I put that on next (it helps lose about 1.3 stops) and then only if I need it do I start stopping down.

Of course, it helps to have a lens that can produce sharp images when used wide open - I usually go out with a 70-200 f/4L IS.

As for heat haze, being close to the aircraft helps, because the further you are, the more the haze seems to "blend" with the background. The only time this isn't true is when shooting fighters and such, where they make so much heat that it almost always stands out, no matter what.

Cheers


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