oly720man From United Kingdom, joined May 2004, 6517 posts, RR: 11 Reply 1, posted (3 months 2 weeks 4 days 2 hours ago) and read 4796 times:
What exposure settings are you using and what focal lengths?
Don't forget the inverse rule that shutter speed is 1/focal length, and with the 3100 there's a 1.6x crop factor so shutter speed is 1/(focal length x 1.6), so at 300mm you're looking at 1/500s. If the lens has image stabilisation (or Nikon's equivalent) this won't necessarily hold true.
For aircraft you need an aperture of around f8 so there's enough depth of field to get the whole aircraft in focus.
Check the focus point. On the Westjet it looks like the winglet is in focus rather than the fuselage, unless it's my eyes.
Beware motion blur when panning, especially if the shutter speed isn't fast enough. If you're not following the aircraft exactly you will get some blurring during the exposure.
That lens should be more than capable of producing sharp images.
vikkyvik From United States of America, joined Jul 2003, 9020 posts, RR: 28 Reply 2, posted (3 months 2 weeks 4 days 1 hour ago) and read 4766 times:
Quoting oly720man (Reply 1): For aircraft you need an aperture of around f8 so there's enough depth of field to get the whole aircraft in focus.
That's dependent on focal length and distance from subject (and sensor size). If you're shooting between 70 and 300mm, and shooting a whole aircraft (so your subject is probably 500-1500 feet away), you won't have much problem with DOF, even at F4. I shoot aircraft that are as close as 200 feet at F4 between 70 and 300mm all the time (on a 1.6 crop sensor).
Quoting oly720man (Reply 1): If you're not following the aircraft exactly you will get some blurring during the exposure.
Important to note that even if you are following the aircraft exactly, as shutter speed slows down you may get some blur at the extremes of the aircraft, as the nose and tail won't be moving at the same rate in your field of view.
"Two and a Half Men" was filmed in front of a live ostrich.
len90 From United States of America, joined Jul 2006, 156 posts, RR: 0 Reply 7, posted (3 months 2 weeks 3 days 4 hours ago) and read 4608 times:
What focus mode were you using. Aviation photography is best done using AF Servo. Think it is the same name on Nikon as Canon for that. Basically you want the camera to be constantly focusing and not just point focusing.
BriceJohnson From Canada, joined Mar 2012, 83 posts, RR: 0 Reply 8, posted (3 months 2 weeks 3 days 4 hours ago) and read 4607 times:
Quoting len90 (Reply 7): What focus mode were you using. Aviation photography is best done using AF Servo. Think it is the same name on Nikon as Canon for that. Basically you want the camera to be constantly focusing and not just point focusing.
dazbo5 From United Kingdom, joined Mar 2005, 2739 posts, RR: 2 Reply 9, posted (3 months 2 weeks 3 days 4 hours ago) and read 4603 times:
Quoting len90 (Reply 7): Basically you want the camera to be constantly focusing and not just point focusing.
It depends on how you are using your camera and what technique you are employing. I don't use AF servo personally and use one shot as I prefer to take single shots then recompose / focus rather than track / take a burst or shots.
Equipment: 2x Canon EOS 50D; Sigma 10-20 EX DC HSM, 50-500 EX APO DG, Canon 24-105 f/4 L, Speedlite 430EX
vikkyvik From United States of America, joined Jul 2003, 9020 posts, RR: 28 Reply 10, posted (3 months 2 weeks 3 days 3 hours ago) and read 4601 times:
Quoting dazbo5 (Reply 9): I don't use AF servo personally and use one shot as I prefer to take single shots then recompose / focus rather than track / take a burst or shots.
Occasionally I'll switch to AF Servo, just to try it out. Haven't found any noticeable difference. But like Darren, I don't fire off bursts anyway. If it means I occasionally miss a shot/airplane, then oh well, there's always the next spotting session.
"Two and a Half Men" was filmed in front of a live ostrich.
len90 From United States of America, joined Jul 2006, 156 posts, RR: 0 Reply 13, posted (3 months 2 weeks 2 days 21 hours ago) and read 4539 times:
For the UPS I personally think it has to do with you being at 190mm (like 285mm on a 35mm) and only shooting at 1/200 or possibly a really bad focus.
As Vik said, full size unedited pictures will help a lot.
Quoting vikkyvik (Reply 10): Occasionally I'll switch to AF Servo, just to try it out. Haven't found any noticeable difference. But like Darren, I don't fire off bursts anyway. If it means I occasionally miss a shot/airplane, then oh well, there's always the next spotting session.
Pretty much my findings. I just like Servo and burst shooting so I can get multiple pictures and have a variety to choose from.
luxornv From United States of America, joined Aug 2013, 1 posts, RR: 0 Reply 14, posted (3 months 2 weeks 2 days 18 hours ago) and read 4523 times:
Hello, I've been using a Canon T3i with a 70-200mm f/2.8L II USM for my last few outings. I work about 3 miles from ORD and I take pictures during my lunch break. Below are a few of the shots I've taken. I haven't taken the time to upload them to a proper photo host, and these are linked from my Facebook. As a result, the compression is horrible on these. I've been shooting at ISO100, 1/800 shutter, and typically f/8-11. It was a little cloudy today, so I had the aperture up to 3.5 on a few shots.
JeffinMass From United States of America, joined Dec 2011, 21 posts, RR: 0 Reply 15, posted (3 months 2 weeks 2 days 8 hours ago) and read 4481 times:
My opinion is this. The Nikon 70-300 is a good lens. If you want a GREAT lens then get the 80-400 ES. The glass is a far better quality, hence the cost which is about $1400USD. Sometimes a 18mm lens works too or a 28-105mm. It all depends upon what and how you are shooting. The images here are very nice. Remember it's the photographer who takes the pictures not the camera. The camera helps you take them.
alevik From Canada, joined Mar 2009, 834 posts, RR: 8 Reply 17, posted (3 months 2 weeks 2 days ago) and read 4430 times:
AIRLINERS.NET CREW HEAD SCREENER
The gear you have now should be more than adequate to get good images in the conditions you have been shooting in (based on your examples).
I have the 28-300 and use it for aviation photography as well as general travel photography. It is a great lens and easy to carry around. I also use both the new and old versions of the 80-400 - a much larger and heavier lens but useful when you need that extra reach. I have never used the 70-300 but I know others who have and upload successfully here.
From your examples, it is hard to tell how much you have had to crop from the original to get full frame. The Westjet for example, with f 8 at 1/800 at ISO 100 and 195mm that should produce a very acceptable result. The shutter speed is high enough, the ISO is low, and 195mm is well in the sweet spot of the the lens. Did you have to crop the image a lot?
For the AC 767, f 8 at a 1/2000, ISO 400, and 145mm, I'm unsure why you needed ISO 400? ISO 100 would still give you a decently high shutter speed and introduce less grain.
Rather than think about changing lenses, I would focus on getting good results from the gear you have, which should be very possible, and then decide what lens will suit your needs.
angad84 From India, joined Nov 2012, 528 posts, RR: 0 Reply 20, posted (3 months 2 weeks 10 hours ago) and read 4321 times:
Quoting BriceJohnson (Reply 18): I did have to crop each of the photos from original res of 4608px down to about 3000px.
I used to frame wide and crop later, because it was easier than framing tight and risking cutting off parts of the plane. Then I realised I was just being lazy and worked on getting better at following the aircraft more accurately.
gocaps16 From Japan, joined Jan 2000, 4314 posts, RR: 22 Reply 21, posted (3 months 1 week 5 days 22 hours ago) and read 4217 times:
Try shooting RAW instead of JPEG. That would alleviate the JPEG compression on your photos and tends to loose some quality while you edit. Editing plays a major factor on this website. Once you master the settings of your camera for sharpness, then it'll be editing. I'm a Nikon guy myself and I and many photographers will recommend you a higher budget, excellent quality glass as the 70-200 F2.8 VR. Price is $2600 USD new. For me, I tend to stay away from shooting on overcast days and practice shooting ILS approaches at my local airfield instead.
megatop412 From United States of America, joined Sep 2005, 294 posts, RR: 0 Reply 22, posted (3 months 1 week 5 days 2 hours ago) and read 4146 times:
My two main lenses for this type of work is the Nikkor 70-300mmVR and the Sigma 150-500mmOS. They complement each other nicely and yield excellent IQ.
While it is true the more expensive lenses are sharper, if you don't have the need for that kind of uber-sharpness, there's no need to invest in them. I also can't justify spending $2400 on a lens that only zooms to 200mm, to then have to spend even more money on teleconverters.
BriceJohnson From Canada, joined Mar 2012, 83 posts, RR: 0 Reply 24, posted (3 months 2 days ago) and read 3573 times:
Should I get a Sigma 150-500mm lens?
Is it possible that there is something wrong with my lens or camera, all things considered? (Fast enough exposure, aperture, etc.) The issue of the entire aircraft not being in complete focus is happening with every trip I make... please help!
Asuspine From United States of America, joined Apr 2009, 64 posts, RR: 0 Reply 26, posted (3 months 1 day 1 hour ago) and read 3449 times:
Seeing the UPS I think its a back focus problem. I use Nikon D7000 with AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G IF-ED. I initially faced focusing issues. The problem was that lens and / or camera were not perfectly synchronized and thus had a back focus issue. I was able to resolve the issue as there is a Fine Tune option in D7000 but I guess the same is not available in D3100.
IMO you should first test your camera for back focus problems on static subjects. Please google 'back focus' and you would find several websites with detailed procedure. It would be better to upgrade to a camera with auto fine tune option instead of changing lenses.
For aviation photography I would recommend AF-C and I hope you shoot with a single point focus.
gunone From United States of America, joined Apr 2013, 8 posts, RR: 0 Reply 27, posted (2 months 4 weeks 1 day 17 hours ago) and read 3300 times:
You are exactly where I was two years ago. Do not be discouraged, you will be facing a great challenge. Follow my advice implicitly and you will never look back. I used the Nikon 70-300 for one and a half years till the inner lenses were full of dust and the lens is unserviceable. Then you can replace it with a 70-200 2.8 and a 1.7 teleconverter. The tele is for shooting private aircraft. The images will be outstanding, where you are now the lens will require skills you have yet to develop. You have great learning glass, master it. The camera is better than mine was, a Nikon D60. Here is you first lesson...
Use centre spot focusing and evaluative center spot metering around 6mm. You want the subject exposed correctly.
Check your shutter speeds. Use at least the reciprocal of the focal length, eg if you're shooting at 100mm, you need at least 1/100th or at 200mm, at least 1/200th. This assumes a good panning technique, ideally you'd want say 1/400th to freeze the action then reduce the shutter speed as your technique improves or you want to creation some motion blur in the background. I never depend on VR to stabilize my image, at 1/800 of a second your shutter is ahead of Vibration Reduction.
Shut off all camera attributes: D-Lighting, Compensation, Sharpness, ETC. These attributes slow down focusing speed and add unwanted artifacts and noise to your photos.
You need to know your camera, get a good book or two, the Internet also has is also a great source of information, constantly check for good exposure around F/8. As the sun transitions through the day slight adjustments to the ISO will be necessary. Learn the Golden Triangle and how to best use it for aviation photography. Slow the shutter down for propeller aircraft nead to lower the ISO setting to 100.
Always be looking for good backgrounds to capture. Example the moon. You will need to increase the F/Stop to F16 in order for the added element to be crisp and in focus.
Develop a good focusing technique. Mine is to zoom in on the object, press the shutter button half way, when the GREEN light is steady in the lower left of the camera you have acquired focus, now Zoom out and compose your shot. I have framing turned on to keep the image centered.
Photography is about practice and experience, it's not something you'll master straight away but use the above as a starting point and you'll not go far wrong.
Noise in the blue channel is not uncommon in winter light, but keeping the ISO as low as possible will prevent anything too serious. When processing photos, never sharpen the sky as there's nothing to sharpen and it'll emphasis any noise.
During post-processing lasso the aircraft and only sharpen the aircraft.
Lastly is practice and keep reading, learn from your bad images. It took me 30,000 shots to get it right, this means 85% of the images are something worth sharing.
gunone From United States of America, joined Apr 2013, 8 posts, RR: 0 Reply 29, posted (2 months 2 weeks 1 day 15 hours ago) and read 2373 times:
Hi, this is Alan again...
I tried a Sigma 150 - 500mm lens on a D7000, it was not pretty. The camera seldom autofocused accurately and the camera could not meter the light accurately. I tried the lens on my D60 and it worked much better. It also worked well on the D90 and D300. It might have to do with the F/6.4 which is reached just over 300mm. A lot of lens to work with for a short focal length. Remember most cameras do not work correctly above F/5.6. To date only the D600 and D7100 will allow this. I still have mine, never use it, through away too many shots that should have been keepers.
Also it sounds like you are not getting close enough to your images, try finding a better spotting location, the more focal length, the more dirt, pollen, pollution, etc. will be amplified between you and the target. Photography is a thinking man's hobby and requires constant effort, educate, practice and evaluate.