Jwenting From Netherlands, joined Apr 2001, 10213 posts, RR: 17
Reply 2, posted (12 years 11 months 1 week 6 days 19 hours ago) and read 4756 times:
digital is only a good choice if you can spend at least a thousand Euro or USD on a camera, preferably over 2000.
Good cameras to start are the Nikon F65 (N65), Minolta 505Si Super (could be the Stsi, check a Minolta website or call them) and Canon Eos 300 (could be the Rebel 2000 or one model up).
Get a camera with at least centerweighted metering and aperture priority mode, a camera where you're stuck with a 'sports program' is severely limiting.
I'd prefer to also have a DOF preview button and spotmetering mode, plus full manual mode.
The possibility to disengage autofocus is also something to look for.
Get the best lenses you can afford, if possible at least one model up in quality from the ones the camera ships with as default.
Shoot loads of film, preferably slidefilm. Don't shoot just aircraft, you'll be a better photographer for it.
L-188 From United States of America, joined Jul 1999, 30021 posts, RR: 58
Reply 3, posted (12 years 11 months 1 week 6 days 15 hours ago) and read 4719 times:
If you are going to go with a 35MM.
I would recommend that you only look at Pentax or Nikon bodies. The reason is that niether one of those companies changed the design of the bayonet mounts that they use. That means that any Pentax K mount lens will fit on any Pentax camera, and any Nikon lens will fit on any Nikon camera. All of the other manufactures have changed their designs at least once.
Of the two of them I shoot Pentax and am quite happy with it, but Nikon does have a wider selection of both brand and aftermarket lenses.
Also don't get too hung up on buying new gear especially if you are new. Check out some used shots. A lot of times there is nothing wrong with the older stuff and you can learn more about all the adjustments.
It is kind of like learning to drive with a manual or automatic transmission.
OBAMA-WORST PRESIDENT EVER....Even SKOORB would be better.
Flpuck6 From United States of America, joined Jun 1999, 2123 posts, RR: 28
Reply 9, posted (12 years 11 months 1 week 6 days 11 hours ago) and read 4691 times:
Three basic photography tips:
- Be sure the sun is behind you. You want to avoid taking photos facing the sun. It causes the subject(s) to be what is called "backlit". You want the sun highlighting your subjet(s)!
- Try to photograph in good sunny weather. In short, just avoid very cloudy days.
- Don't hold back on the trigger, take lots and lots of photos. Make the investment. It is a long term thing, it takes practice and experience. Experiment. And, take a look at other photos here on a.net, study the composition (how the subject is framed etc.), the positions of the airplanes and try to copy and/or come up with your own points of view!
Jwenting From Netherlands, joined Apr 2001, 10213 posts, RR: 17
Reply 10, posted (12 years 11 months 1 week 6 days 10 hours ago) and read 4675 times:
All Nikon lenses work on ALL Nikon bodies, but there may be restrictions on the functionality.
If I had a 1960s Nikon lens it would work just fine on my 2001 F80, except I would have no autofocus (doh, wasn't invented yet) and no 3D matrix metering (no D-chip).
The 1980s Canon lens for the A-1 on the other hand does not work on the Eos bodies released a few years later.
About rules: Rules are there to be broken. Some of my best shots ever were backlit, but you need to know what you're doing and it must be planned that way.
Unintentional backlighting often comes out horrible.
Cloudy weather can yield exceptional shots, but again it is more difficult (especially with the maginification of long teles).
Indeed, film is cheap. Burn through it. National Geographic regularly shoot 2000 frames for a magazine article featuring a dozen. A dozen more go into the archives and maybe another dozen are sold. The rest is thrown away.
Most people are happy with a 10% ratio of shots they consider good, and maybe one or two exceptional ones a year.
Cschleic From United States of America, joined Feb 2002, 1347 posts, RR: 0
Reply 11, posted (12 years 11 months 1 week 6 days 10 hours ago) and read 4667 times:
Definitely used is worth a look, particularly lenses. There's a lot of used gear out there, particularly Nikon, although more Canon EOS is available than a few years ago. Make sure to have the body metering checked for accurary. One route is used lenses but new body. But used is more viable for film bodies.
Manual override capability of the meter can be very helpful, that is telling the camera to over or underexpose a shot a certain amount, say a half a stop, one stop, etc. The meter can be fooled by a bright white plane, for example, and underexpose the whole shot. Just take a lot of photos and figure out what works for you.
All Nikon lenses can be mounted on all Nikon bodies, but....the change happens there. Not all autofocus or metering or extenders fully function on all bodies, mostly older ones. Using the same mount, Nikon has enhanced its lenses to autofocus, mechanical linkage to electronic, and the silent wave motor, etc. When Canon shifted from FD to EOS format, it fundamentally changed the size of the mount, and went to an entirely electronic linkage between the camera and body with the autofocus motor in the lens.
OH-LZA From Finland, joined Jun 2001, 1000 posts, RR: 4
Reply 12, posted (12 years 11 months 1 week 6 days 9 hours ago) and read 4662 times:
You may want to look at an entirely used kit too, just buy from a reputable dealer that offers you warranty. In my opinion you should invest more on the lens than the body. And BTW the EOS300 is the name of the Rebel 2000 outside Canada&US.
Another subject that hasn't been brought up is scanning, to scan slides, you need a slide scanner, which is going to be expensive. You can scan prints with a flatbed scanner, and still get them on here.
Wietse From Netherlands, joined Oct 2001, 3809 posts, RR: 55
Reply 15, posted (12 years 11 months 1 week 6 days 4 hours ago) and read 4614 times:
you're right, in the beginning it is totally adequate. (a flatbed scanner) But if you decide to stick with the hobby, then in the future you should be planning to buy a slidescanner. If you don't have a scanner right now (flatbed OR slidescanner) don't waste your money on a flatbed, you'll be wanting a slidescanner pretty soon...
I've started last August, and am very pleased with the way I've been making progress in that period, but the only thing limiting my (digital) career, is the flatbed scanner!
That's why I am planning on purchasing a Nikon Coolscan IV slidescanner in the very near future!
OH-LZA From Finland, joined Jun 2001, 1000 posts, RR: 4
Reply 18, posted (12 years 11 months 1 week 6 days 4 hours ago) and read 4597 times:
I didn't say that thinking he'd be stupid, just a friendly reminder.
And film sure does have a lot more to offer.
A camera bought for 900 Canadian dollars will be outdated in a couple of years. With your 35mm SLR you can get the same slides in a couple of years, but the digital might not be enough for airliners.net standards then.
Also, scanners will improve, so one would get much better scans of their old slides.
Alex whose next big photo purchase is going to be a 35mm SLR kit of his own.
BO__einG From Canada, joined Apr 2000, 2771 posts, RR: 18
Reply 19, posted (12 years 11 months 1 week 6 days 3 hours ago) and read 4609 times:
Shoot prints first:
You get it developed cheaper, quicker and therfore you can see how your shots came out. You keep shooting prints until about half the stuff you shot are decent/good range that meets any of the photographic rules.
Then go for slides and work your way up. Get a nice SLR camera with NO AUTOFOCUS or with autofocus but u can turn it off..
Get lens that are 50mm, and a zoom lens that can get you to at least 150mm.
If you can invest on higher lens, then that is even better like 300mm.
Here is how I see photography in relation to skillls.
You take: -----You are
10 photos- Newbie who just learned how the "shutter release" button works.
50 photos- Newbie who realizes that the plane has to be sunlit to take better pictures.
100 photos- semi proficient, you get a basic idea of how photography of airliners works
200 photos- Proficient newbie, you now take phots and apply the rules of photography like steady horizon, good conditions.
500 photos- Amateur, Congrads. By now at leat 50% of photos you take should be coming out decently well.
1000 photos- Hardcore Amateur, 75% shots come out well. One or two blockbuster shots.
2000 photos- Obsessive Amateur, Most of your airport photo trips go well, You now take now only side on shots by landing/takeoff/closeups and artsy shots at this point.
5000+ photos- Professional.. Congrads, you are a Lawerence Feir Wannabe.
10000 photos- You introduced slides by now and you Either trade with the guys at New York area or other K64 shooters, OR you introduce digital camera and go nuts with it.
Also by the 500-1000 photos mark, you would of invested on a film scanner to upload some shots to a.net..
You would also at that point take nightime photos using a tripod(long exposures or sunset shots)
Mcringring From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 20, posted (12 years 11 months 1 week 6 days 3 hours ago) and read 4607 times:
If you're really new to photography, digital can help you learn quicker. You can review your shots as you take them and adjust your settings accordingly. It's easier to look at your shot immediately and see what is wrong with it rather than waiting for the prints, slides, whatever to be developed and then try to remember what you were doing when you took each shot. Don't worry about your camera becoming "outdated." As with a film camera, a digital camera bought today will produce high-quality images and will continue to do so in the future. Assuming you don't have the money to invest in top-of-the-line equipment (and from what you say, you don't) no matter what you start with, film or digital, once you become proficient, you will want something better. Once you know what you're doing, you can make an educated decision on what you want to use the camera for in the future and what format to go for. I shoot film and digital, and would recommend starting with digital, if nothing else for the accelerated learning curve. A good digital camera can be had for $900 canadian - possibly half that.
Craigy From United Kingdom, joined Jun 2001, 1118 posts, RR: 0
Reply 21, posted (12 years 11 months 1 week 6 days 2 hours ago) and read 4578 times:
Welcome to the hobby!
One question. Do you want to take pictures for your own collection, to trade, or to upload to Airliners.net?
Buy whatever you want. Digital or 35mm SLR, cheap or expensive, new or 2nd hand. Just make sure you get a good Lens, and a body from a reputable manufacturer.
Shoot slides or print - you will know what you want to look at.
SLR, K64 + LOTS of experience.
Digital is easiest to get to grips with as the format is already A.net compatible.
F707 is the cream of fixed lens digitals. Search pics database for Colin Abbott.
Digital SLRs are very expensive, plus you need good lenses too.
Hope you make the right decision and stay with us.
PPGMD From United States of America, joined Sep 2001, 2453 posts, RR: 0
Reply 22, posted (12 years 11 months 1 week 6 days 2 hours ago) and read 4574 times:
"Shoot prints first:
You get it developed cheaper, quicker and therfore you can see how your shots came out. You keep shooting prints until about half the stuff you shot are decent/good range that meets any of the photographic rules."
Cheaper I think not. To shoot a professional Print film, Fuji Reala costs me $4.95 a roll, then I have to pay for professional processing at $13.95 a roll (I can get cheaper for $9.99 at Walmart but I don't trust my film to them).
While with slides I shoot films that is the same price but only pay $5-6 (normal I pay $2.50 a roll) to get it processed. I can then pick the one or two that I really like (if I even like them) and send them to the Fuji lab that I like.
Now if you want to get into true photography I suggest that you visit sites like Nikonians (http://www.nikonians.org) and Phillip's photo.net (http://www.photo.net) there you can not only find forums where you can get many photo professionals to help you out. Also on photo.net there are reviews of equipment and an area where people report thier expierences with particular shops.
Also purchase a copy of the National Geographic Field Guide: Secerts to Making Great Photos, this book contains not only general tips and how a camera works but many more advanced tips to achieve the results that they get.
On top that purchase later on, when you get a little more confortable with you camera and are producing some pretty good photos, Kodak's Professional Photoguide. This book is extremely helpful (though I wish it was published by a third party so it could cover Fuji films too), it has metering card and many pages with slide rules to help you out with in the field calculations. Though it is a little too deep for a begineer.
J.mo From United States of America, joined Feb 2002, 667 posts, RR: 0
Reply 23, posted (12 years 11 months 1 week 6 days 1 hour ago) and read 4569 times:
I shoot alot of pictures, but lack of a negative scanner poses a problem for me. I bought a new Nikon N80 which has DOF, spot and center-weighted metering, can shoot fully auto or manual. I got the camera body, 70-300MM and a 28-50MM for less than $600.00 US. The lenses are not the best Nikon has, but I love the results from this camera. Would recommend it to anyone.
I owned a Minolta HTSI and sold it to help pay for this camera. The Minolta just felt cheap and I was not happy with the results.
Digital is a good choice if you can afford to upgrade every other year. Like someone said, good slides will still be good slides years from now.
My 2 cents....
P.S. I also owned a Mamiya RB67 medium format camera....I do love this Nikon.
What is the difference between Fighter pilots and God? God never thought he was a fighter pilot.