JFKTOWERFAN From United States of America, joined Sep 2001, 1100 posts, RR: 13 Posted (13 years 4 months 3 weeks 2 days 19 hours ago) and read 4073 times:
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I just got my Canon EOS Elan 7e, and I am pretty new at this so for those of you who are a lot better than me what are the best settings. I realize it depends a bunch of different factors but what do you think is best for a sunny day around mid-day, and do you change your settings in the early evening when the sun gets lower, and last a cloudy day. Really just looking for a rough idea so I know where to start.
(not sure if it make a difference but I have a 28-90, and a 75-300 Canon USM lens)
Thanks in advance,
Jderden777 From United States of America, joined Jan 2000, 1763 posts, RR: 25
Reply 2, posted (13 years 4 months 3 weeks 2 days 19 hours ago) and read 4025 times:
yikes, be careful around mid-day...it's not good for lighting purposes..try to shoot in the mornings or afternoon/evenings when the light is good...
i used the auto settings for my elan 2e recently in DFW in the early afternoon...the shots came out for the most part overexposed and blurry...
in the afternoon the light is a lot better, and i still mostly use auto and it works great...i think i'll have to try the "action" setting sometime though...
try some different things, different settings and what not and see how it turns out! sounds like you've got good lenses too...just give it a shot and see what works best for you, and what you like....people might tell you different things, but you just really need to find out for yourself what you like
JFKTOWERFAN From United States of America, joined Sep 2001, 1100 posts, RR: 13
Reply 4, posted (13 years 4 months 3 weeks 2 days 17 hours ago) and read 3982 times:
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Thanks for the input. I have been using the P setting with the AI Servo. It works pretty good I was just wasn't sure if that is the best. I intend on doing a lot of trial and error. Jonathan I have learned real quick that the last hour or two of sun in the day is the best. You get a lot more light under the plane.
PPGMD From United States of America, joined Sep 2001, 2453 posts, RR: 0
Reply 5, posted (13 years 4 months 3 weeks 2 days 15 hours ago) and read 3959 times:
Since I have turned to shooting more manual cameras, I have learned the sunny f16 rule. When its sunny out you use F16 and 1/the speed of the film. For example I shoot primarily velvia that means that during a sunny day shooting F16 I will have to use a shutter speed of 1/50 to get proper exposure. Of course you can open the aputure and use a faster shutter speed and get the same exposure, that is know as reprocity.
Oh one thing to watch out for during the later part of day the colors have more of a red tint to them. I had to shoot a subject in the last hour before dark, during the sunset. I had to adjust them slightly in photoshop to get the correct color. Now some films are more sensitive then others though.
Staffan From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 6, posted (13 years 4 months 3 weeks 2 days 15 hours ago) and read 3957 times:
f/16 is a bit high, specially if you are using a longer lens it won't give you a very high shutter speed on most films.
My suggestion is to start in P and once you get familiar with the numbers start experimenting with aperture and shutter priority.
A rule of thumb is to use a shutter speed the same or higher than the focal lenght to avoid blur caused by the camera moving. For instance 1/100 on a 100mm lens, 1/500 on a 500mm lens, you get the point.
For shooting props 1/250 or less is usually recommended to avoid giving the impression of the props not moving.
For normal photogrphy f/8 is usually enough to get the whole aircraft in focus and still have enough shutter speed.
Shawn Patrick From United States of America, joined Jan 2000, 2610 posts, RR: 15
Reply 7, posted (13 years 4 months 2 weeks 6 days 10 hours ago) and read 3907 times:
As a general rule, I would say try to shoot at f/8 AT LEAST at all times during the day. It will keep most of the aircraft and other things in the picture focused as Staffan said. And if you can get an acceptable shutter speed while going for a higher aperture setting, go for it.
Cfalk From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR:
Reply 9, posted (13 years 4 months 2 weeks 3 days 2 hours ago) and read 3793 times:
ALL lenses (that I've ever tried or heard of) are at their optimum design performance at around 2 to 3 stops above maximum aperture. So if you are looking for best sharpness, contrast, and minimal vignetting, you should set it to this optimal setting.
In whole stop intervals, here is the list of f/stops:
Therefore, an f/2.8 lens will perform best at between f/5.6 and f/8. A typical 75-300mm lens will have a maximum aperture of f/5.6 at 300mm, so the optimum f-stop will be around f/11 or so. But at 75mm, if the lens can open up to f/3.5, then the optimum will be around f/8 at that focal length.
This "gate" of 2 or 3 stops can be wider for high quality lenses, and will apply more firmly with cheaper lenses.
So ideally, you should be able to set the camera using the aperture-priority mode to the ideal f-stop, and let the speed be determined by the camera.
Of course, you will have to monitor the speed that results. If you have stopped down your lens to f/11, and try to take panning shots at a resulting speed of 1/60th, you will get blurry pictures. You then have several choices:
1) Restrict the use of that camera/film/lens combo to static shots.
2) Use more sensitive film to achieve more speed (this will have the worst impact on your pictures, unfortunately).
3) Open up the aperture a little to try to get a bit more speed, and see if the resulting loss of image quality is acceptable, or even noticeable (as I said, a well-made lens will have a wider "gate" for you to play in without penalty.)
4) Get a faster lens.
Interestingly, I've noticed that my camera setup (Canon EOS 1v and Canon 'L' lenses)is intelligent enough that the camera, if set on 'P', seems to detect the lenses capabilities, and always stays around 2-3 stops up from maximum (i.e., within the "gate"), and only goes outside this envelope if it is really bright or really dark. Smart camera. I haven't run the experiment with my older/cheaper camera bodies (Elan II and Rebel) to see if they do the same.
G-CIVP From United Kingdom, joined Mar 2001, 1451 posts, RR: 9
Reply 10, posted (13 years 4 months 1 week 2 days 20 hours ago) and read 3728 times:
"Therefore, an f/2.8 lens will perform best at between f/5.6 and f/8. A typical 75-300mm lens will have a maximum aperture of f/5.6 at 300mm, so the optimum f-stop will be around f/11 or so. But at 75mm, if the lens can open up to f/3.5, then the optimum will be around f/8 at that focal length."
Therefore, in reality a f8, 500mm lens, isn't going to be much use unless your using 200-400ASA?
L-188 From United States of America, joined Jul 1999, 30207 posts, RR: 57
Reply 13, posted (13 years 4 months 6 days 6 hours ago) and read 3660 times:
Ok here we go.
At the first day of the open house on Elemdorf AFB I brought both my cameras, My now deceased Pentax PZ-70 and my Zenit-B.
I had a roll of K64 in each of them.
I noticed that the roll in the manual camera was much darker then the one that I had in the auto camera. But it was still a pretty good image. Sorry but I dont' recall the F-stop used. I think I was firing at 1/64th or 1/32nd speed. I could probably look at a box of K64 to figure it out however.
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