Mirage From Portugal, joined May 1999, 3125 posts, RR: 13
Reply 1, posted (13 years 9 months 3 weeks 3 days 1 hour ago) and read 3437 times:
It depends on what you want to achieve. In my sunset photos I don't apply special settings and never a filter. For this one I used a low speed, if the plane is fast moving but you want to include the sun in the photo, it's not a big problem because you'll have the main source of light in front of you wich can give higher shutter speeds. The only problem may be when the sun is so low that the light is weak but this kind of problem can happen in a cloudy day and I think you british people have lots of experience with cloudy days.
Round_engine From United States of America, joined Feb 2001, 64 posts, RR: 1
Reply 2, posted (13 years 9 months 3 weeks 3 days 1 hour ago) and read 3440 times:
Not really knowing what I was doing, but seeing an interesting opportunity, I used a tripod, set the N90S camera to "auto everything" and pressed the shutter. I used Fuji Reala 100. Due to the smoke and my less than sophisticated approach, the shot came out OK for a first try but not anywhere close to the other spectacular sunrise/sunset shots posted on a.net. Here's the result.
Aer Lingus From Ireland, joined May 2000, 1599 posts, RR: 0
Reply 3, posted (13 years 9 months 3 weeks 3 days ago) and read 3409 times:
Allo Allo Benny............
If you want a silhouetted aircraft, meter about two diameters from the sun. It'll give you enough exposure to cover the full picture while not taking away the effect of a nice orange glow!
I believe if you under expose by about a half a stop, itll give the picture a more saturated look to it. (at least thats the way with slides - the only way to shoot )
Ckw From UK - England, joined Aug 2010, 813 posts, RR: 12
Reply 4, posted (13 years 9 months 3 weeks 3 days ago) and read 3411 times:
The nice thing about sunsets/sunrise shots is that a wide range of exposures can produce good images - anything from pure outline to subtle orange lighting. So the first thing I would suggest is always bracket your exposures quite widely (+/- 2 stops).
But if you want a close approximation of the sunset as your eye saw it, I find taking an exposure reading directly off the sky (using partial or spot metering - NEVER evaluative!) about one sun diameter away from the sun produces a pretty good result.