Paulinbna From United States of America, joined Feb 2003, 1114 posts, RR: 5 Posted (9 years 10 months 2 weeks 4 days 14 hours ago) and read 2449 times:
I just got the camera today.
What is every ones opinion on the sport mode on the 10D does the fact that it shots in 400 ISO a problem? I have seen Brian Casity's pictures in sport mode and the pictures are sharp. I have always shot in 100 ISO for sharp pictures with no noise.
What does sport mode do to the shutter speed as opposed to P mode?
I realize I could go and shoot and experiment but just thought I could ask in here first. I would hate to miss a really good shot while I am messing with the different modes.
Thanks in advance
Canon 50D user; 100-400 MM L IS 10-22 MM, 60MM Macro
Ckw From UK - England, joined Aug 2010, 545 posts, RR: 17 Reply 1, posted (9 years 10 months 2 weeks 4 days 10 hours ago) and read 2366 times:
The object of modes is to give the photographer the best possible chance of getting an "acceptable" picture in a given type of situation based on a number of assumptions made by the manufacturer. For example, sports mode assumes you want to freeze what will likely be fast action in situations where lighting conditions may be less than ideal - hence a high ISO to allow as fast a shutter speed as possible.
P mode is different is so far as P mode won't change ISO and is set according to the lens in use and whether or not you are using flash. So, in P mode, the shutter speed will be set to a high speed when using a telephoto, a lower speed when using a wide angle. Sport mode will keep a high shutter speed regardless of the lens (subject, of course, to available light).
IMHO program modes should be avoided. At best using them takes a lot of creative control from the photographer, at worst, you can have a situation of the photographer fighting the camera and failing to understand why he/she can't get the picture they want.
Program modes will produce an acceptable result a high proportion of the time, but are much less likely to produce the optimum result in a given situation. And sooner or later, they will bite you by doing something entirely logical to the camera's little brain ... but not what the photographer wanted.
To avoid surprises, learn the principles of photography and stick to the TV, AV or Manual modes.
Glennstewart From Australia, joined Jun 2003, 1124 posts, RR: 56 Reply 3, posted (9 years 10 months 2 weeks 3 days 5 hours ago) and read 2202 times:
I agree with the above too.
I swear by the P mode on the Canon 10D.
I love the ability to "shift" on the fly. On a sunny day at ISO 100, it will average to 1/500 with my lens. If I want a motion blur for a particular image (not that I do it often - but I like to experiment), I will shift down to 1/60 (or similar) before the shot. Harder to get these shots in focus unless you move with the subject.
You don't require anything more that 100ISO for these.
Craigy From United Kingdom, joined Jun 2001, 1118 posts, RR: 0 Reply 4, posted (9 years 10 months 2 weeks 2 days 23 hours ago) and read 2162 times:
In a nutshell, the preset modes are for people who either don't understand or want to bother using the other modes (Tv Av etc). If anyone prefers this method, then good for them. If it works for you......
If I wanted a 'sport mode' I would put the camera in aperture priority and set the aperture wide open, which would then give me the fastest possible shutter speed, but also control over ISO and exposure compensation etc. to suit the conditions. (and RAW format)
The one that may be useful to me is the slow sync flash one, as the extent of my knowledge of flash starts and ends with pressing the button to pop up the flash.
Ckw From UK - England, joined Aug 2010, 545 posts, RR: 17 Reply 5, posted (9 years 10 months 2 weeks 2 days 22 hours ago) and read 2138 times:
Actually, one of the joys I discovered when switching to a modern camera is that flash is a doddle - they just make it sound complicated
With flash, I normally use manual mode, choose a shutter and aperture and the camera determines the appropriate flash output. As long as you stay within the flash operating envelope you can't go wrong, and you have complete control.
Patroni From Luxembourg, joined Aug 1999, 1403 posts, RR: 15 Reply 6, posted (9 years 10 months 2 weeks 2 days 19 hours ago) and read 2127 times:
Well, I have my 10D for two weeks now (and got some great lenses with it, thanks to the helpful advice here in this forum ). In the beginning, I experimented a bit with the sport mode, but was not happy with it.
At the moment I mainly use the TV mode, where I set the time according to my requirements and let the camera select the aperture. This is probably the best mode for me as I often take front views of turboprop aircraft and prefer to see the turning props as "disks" rather than as frozen props. So I set the time to 1/125 or less and try not to shake too much, especially with 200mm (x1.6). ISO is nearly always at 100, except in very low light situations.
Glennstewart From Australia, joined Jun 2003, 1124 posts, RR: 56 Reply 7, posted (9 years 10 months 1 week 5 days 10 hours ago) and read 2060 times:
I love my 10D. But worth mentioning that given experience with my current lens (EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM) and usage of other lenses:
EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM
EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM
EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM
All I can say is that the non L lens is usable. I thought that the price of the L glass was far too expensive, until using the lenses.
Then the results.....
The 10D is a good camera with the non L lenses.
It's capability is beyond belief with the L lenses.
I have a shot in the queue that I took recently with the 100-400 lens on a sunny day. The detail is immaculate despite the aircraft moving at a fast speed. The lens brings out details that are only obtained through lucky USM results with the other lens.
The 10D produces soft images my default. The L lens results require little sharpening compared to the non L.
I didn't think that the extra cost would be worth the purchase of L lenses. But after seeing the results, money is already being re-directed to my savings account for this purpose.
In the end I reckon I will purchase the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM with a 2.0x converter.
Respected users.... If my replies are useful, then by all means...
Boieng747-400 From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 8, posted (9 years 10 months 1 week 5 days 5 hours ago) and read 2044 times:
I'm getting into this debate late but I just got back from the states with a new piece of toy in my bag.
Like anyone with new equipment I gave everything a try starting out with the sports mode. I rapidly found out (also) that it was under 400, it even went up to 1600 once when I had bad weather in Las Vegas. I got fed up with that and I find after having spent about a week shooting at everything (4000 pics since I have the camera) that AV mode is probably the most appropriate for aviation photography. Most of the time I was using a 1.4x converter on my 70-200 f/4 which works perfectly well. I also use the 24-85 3.5-4.5 on AV mode, quite a sharp lens and very nice to use.
If you want a L lens I would go on the combination I went for. Most people don't really need the f/2.8 over f/4, paying twice the money probably isn't worth it (I say probably, everyone has their own needs...). L lenses are very nice and very quick. I'll post some examples a bit later...
Patroni From Luxembourg, joined Aug 1999, 1403 posts, RR: 15 Reply 10, posted (9 years 10 months 1 week 4 days 21 hours ago) and read 1994 times:
@ Glenn :
Yes, I bought the 10D with the Canon 70-200/F4 L USM and the 24-85/3.5-4.5 USM and love both of them! The 70-200 enabled me for example to take low light frontview shots (during sunrise) of a taxiing Saab 2000 with 1/125sec at max zoom. I was just playing with it as I wanted to get the spinning prop effect rather than having this "frozen" prop at 17500sec.... and fell off my chair when I saw the result! Great lens, worth every cent!
And as for the sports mode : Just to repeat myself and to quote Sir Winston Chrchill : "NO SPORTS!"