FLY2HMO From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Posted (8 years 1 month 1 week 1 day 11 hours ago) and read 3108 times:
Today ERAU auctioned parts from the second 727 sim ever made, which was ex-TWA and donated to this school when TWA went belly up. I got myself the annunciator panel, and the hydraulic brake gauges. I juust wanted to know if any of you techies out there know how many volts I will need, and if its doable. I did this with an ADF a while ago, and the results were pretty nice.
SkydrolBoy From Canada, joined Sep 2003, 341 posts, RR: 2 Reply 1, posted (8 years 1 month 1 week 1 day 9 hours ago) and read 3012 times:
I'm pretty sure the annuciator panel will require 28VAC, I know for sure the APU light on the panel is 28VAC powered, so I'm assuming the rest of the lights on that panel require the same power. For the brake gauges I have no clue what power they require.
Amtrosie From United States of America, joined Jan 2005, 274 posts, RR: 1 Reply 2, posted (8 years 1 month 1 week 1 day 2 hours ago) and read 2857 times:
What annunciator panel do you have? Some is 28 volts DC, some 28 volts AC an there are even 5 volt DC powered items.
Air2gxs From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 4, posted (8 years 1 month 1 week 3 hours ago) and read 2712 times:
Take this info with a big old grain of salt (due to effectivity issues) but if you apply 28VDC to pin 20 of the annuciator and apply the source ground to pin 19 and press the test button, you should get them all to light up. Applying the source ground to pin 21 (with 28VDC to pin 20) should eliminate the need for pressing the button.
Alternately, you can get individual lighths to light up by applying 28VDC to pin 21 and grounding individual pins. Some pins may cause a light to come on, some may not, depends on the internals. Carefule, all these light assemblies have non-replacable fuses and diodes.
For the indicators, ground pin 6 and apply 26VAC to pin 5 and you should get the internal lighting to work.
I can't tell you anything about the interconnect light, because the connector appears non standard, but the typical configuration for that type of base assy is:
lug 3 - test power (28VDC)
lug 1 - ground
lug 2 - sytem indication
In other words, if you apply 28VDC to lug 3 and ground lug 1 and then press the lens, the light should come on. Applying 28VDC to lug 2 and grounding lug 1 should illuminate the light without having to press the button. These lugs are located on the backside of the panel on the light itself.
For panel (plate) lighting, you'll have to experiment with that non-standard connector. You should be able to eliminate 3 of the pins by tracing the wires back from the green light assy. Then apply 28VAC to one of the remaining pins and ground another until you have the right combination.
All that being said, here's the disclaimer: THIS INFORMATION IS ONLY GOOD FOR OUR AIRPLANES WIRED PER OUR WIRING DIAGRAM. THE PARTS YOU HAVE MAY OR MAY NOT BE WIRED THIS WAY.
I'm mildly concerned with the non-standard connector, but it's your choice whether to apply power or not. Don't hurt yourself.
Jetlagged From United Kingdom, joined Jan 2005, 2452 posts, RR: 17 Reply 5, posted (8 years 1 month 6 days 14 hours ago) and read 2635 times:
You could use a lower voltage than 28VDC on the annunciators if that's what you have available. 12V or 24 V would be convenient to get from batteries. We routinely used 24VDC on aircraft parts in our simulator designs in an attempt to extend bulb life.
The glass isn't half empty, or half full, it's twice as big as it needs to be.
FLY2HMO From , joined Dec 1969, posts, RR: Reply 7, posted (8 years 1 month 5 days 14 hours ago) and read 2543 times:
Thanks for the replies. When I did the same thing on an ADF a while ago, I used 12V and it worked fine.
@ DeltaGuy
We got a "new" (late 1980's) A320 sim. I think the 727 sims are being butchered. But I heard that if you want to pay for the shipping, you can take the whole thing home for free.
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