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Air Koryo - FNJ To Samjiyon In J Class  
User currently offlineSirThomas From UK - England, joined Jul 2009, 193 posts, RR: 0
Posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 12 hours ago) and read 32767 times:



A pilgrimage to the Dear Leader’s birthplace…

Carrier: Air Koryo (Chosonminhang)
Route: FNJ-Samjiyon (I’m not being lazy, it has no code!)
Flight: JS254 OR JS5502 (Who Knows, it was a ‘One-Ticket-For-All’ affair!)
Equipment: Tu-154B2 (Built 1983)
Registration: P-561
Seat Number: 5A (Given) Switched to 4F (Business)
Flight Duration: 1h 30m
Load: 40%

Hello fellow A.Nutters and welcome to my first (of hopefully many) Trip Reports!

I thought I’d start off with a trip that I took recently, which I imagine not many have had the privilege to take before…
Seeing as this was the third internal flight in the DPRK, we had already experiences a little of what was to come…

OK, so it might be like going back to 1975; with the stewardesses in their strangely attractive dress, the dated planes and the bottled drinks that look as though they're outta the ark... but hey, this IS Air Koryo isn't it!?

Before boarding at any airport in the DPRK, there is the chance to sample the Dear/Great Leaders works, buy some charmingly Anti-American propaganda and gorge yourself on the delights a country with little or no imports can offer… Although an offer of three year old crisps and Vodka ‘Imported from the USSR’ sounded palatable, I was rather more interested in seeing which plane had been lined up for us. Out on the vast apron stood the 27 year old 154 that would be our transport for today.

I was a little annoyed as an IL-18 stood so close to the gate, but I’d never flown a ‘b’ model before so I wasn’t too disappointed. Not that it really mattered, as we got to fly on that, later on in the journey – Huzzah!
Security in North Korea isn’t quite up to the standards of other countries... You quite simply walk through the highly dangerous looking metal detectors (that aren’t switched on) with everything still on your person, to the one door that leads to the tarmac... They don't seem to mind if you have a Swiss army knife on your person or if you’re carrying lighters etc… No-one on our group even got patted down.
Then there's the incredibly pointless bus to the plane which takes all of three seconds…


The elaborate chandeliers at the airport that were never on even at night, due to power shortages.

A busy day at FNJ, with at least 3 planes passing through!

Our plane sitting on the tarmac

The Koryo Lineup: IL-18, Tu-154, 2 x IL-62 and what would appear to be the 2 x Tu-204's

Guarding the entrance... (Not that there's flights anytime soon)

Collection of old MI-172's and P-551 stored for parts presumably... (Bad landing I think?)

When we boarded our veteran Tupolev, greeted by the ever-so-friendly cabin crew, we were escorted to our seats in whY class… placed in the first teeny cabin I was pretty happy as the rest of the North Korean gymnastics team seemed to be up back!


A few minutes later, after everyone had boarded (including the gymnastic team supplied with a few essential travel supplies consisting of Gerry cans and Cooking Oil), our guide suggested we should move up to the front for the proper Koryo experience.. Yay!. The five or so of us moved up to our exceedingly comfortable Business Class seats - to the confusion the stewards, and after a few minutes of irate conversation they were told that ‘we had chartered the plane so we were sitting where we damn well liked!’

Good old Mr Ó, our North Korean guide had never flown before, so he was a little on edge about it all 

Ahhh, charters in North Korea, there's always some other motley crew of misfits that manage to wangle a free flight!   Mind-you by the state of the roads in the area I'm fairly sure that flying is a safer option (even IF half the passengers are indeed carrying enough fuel with them to firebomb half the capital!)

After absorbing the obligatory reading material and everything you could possibly want to know about the ‘Dear Leader’, you get the choice of drinks from the trolley (like your grandmother has, without a brake - which is amusing in turbulence) there is a choice of Beer, Sparkling Substance No.1 or Water, all from the last five year plan. After this, the third engine was turned off (as they always do) and a few minutes later the opportunity to enjoy the truly bizarre ‘Koryo Burger’ that was probably barking ten minutes before the plane took off…

However, I would recommend not indulging in one of these culinary delights unless you happen to carry Charcoal Tablets on your person.

So far, so good as far as service is concerned, with the charming attendants running up and down to attend to our every whim and forcing endless bottles of Beer upon us – but I can live with that.
Business Class is particularly good for a game of football, as the stewards don't seem to mind... There’s plenty of room and our tour guide was in his element having a game with us all!

The amusing thing about Air Koryo is that it’s all a big chance to show off on an international flight, but internally, you really get to see how differing the DPRK’s attempts at safety procedures are.
For one, Seatbelt Checks: Normally attendants will stroll along the plane to check the passenger’s seatbelts - and this is no different on Koryo, apart from the fact that they don't mind if it’s fastened or not. I really can see how they were banned in Europe… I’ve never been on this model of the Tu-154 before, but I don't remember there being visible gaps in the floor where one could see (presumably the cargo hold) on the newer models? Then there's the safety cards (or lack of) which seem to vary between aircraft types and revisions.
For example, on this particular flight I managed to locate two versions for the Tupolev and one for the Ilyushin 62, which may prove confusing if there were to be an incident… does the Tupolev even have Oxygen on this model?!

I think the biggest benefit of flying internally is that you don't have to listen to that earbleedingly loud propaganda music!

Let’s be honest, you can't expect a First Class trip... But it's all part of the North Korean experience!

Hope you enjoyed the report,
Tom

Here are a few more shots I took during my trip, cause I know you chaps like a load of photo's!:

Myself at Samjiyon...

-

The amusing customs declaration - Why would I want to bring Poison!?

I took another 3 Flights as well as this in/out of the DPRK, so I shall put them up depending on demand  
These would be PEK-FNJ, FNJ-Sondok (Hamhung) and finally the return from Hamhung, which would admittedly lack in photo’s, but could be of interest because of the IL-18 involved!

There are more photo’s up on my Flickr account if anyone wishes to have a look (.com/tpeddle)

[Edited 2010-09-11 10:43:03]

[Edited 2010-09-11 10:44:14]


Flown On: A319/A320/A321/A332/A333/AT45/734/736/738/744/DH8D/T204/T154/IL62/T134/IL-18/An-24
43 replies: All unread, showing first 25:
 
User currently offlineHALFA From United States of America, joined Jan 2004, 1363 posts, RR: 15
Reply 1, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 12 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Great report! Loved the photos. A very interesting read.
Thanks for sharing it!

Aloha,
HALFA



Don't mess with Texas....We just may do that!
User currently offlineBrusselsSouth From Belgium, joined Aug 2001, 628 posts, RR: 5
Reply 2, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 12 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

DPRK/Air Koryo reports are rare, to say the least. This one is fantastic, I really enjoyed reading it.

And the pictures are excellent !

Thanks for sharing it !

Quoting SirThomas (Thread starter):
I took another 3 Flights as well as this in/out of the DPRK, so I shall put them up depending on demand

Please write a report about them, especially the domestic ones. And don't hesitate to put some non-aviation pictures if you don't mind.

Regards
BrusselsSouth


User currently offlineSirThomas From UK - England, joined Jul 2009, 193 posts, RR: 0
Reply 3, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 11 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Thank-you kind Sirs, I always find it a pleasure to write about my trips so I remember them in the future, but I never seem to have the time/ or actually remember to put them on here!

When I get some free time, I'll try and dig up the other photo's and compile another wee report  

Tom



Flown On: A319/A320/A321/A332/A333/AT45/734/736/738/744/DH8D/T204/T154/IL62/T134/IL-18/An-24
User currently offlineContact Air From Germany, joined Apr 2001, 1154 posts, RR: 13
Reply 4, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 11 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Hi Tom,

Fantastic report and pictures that give a good impression of flying in North Korea - well done!

Regards
Christoph


User currently offlineUSAirALB From United States of America, joined Sep 2007, 3118 posts, RR: 2
Reply 5, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 10 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Very Nice TR!

I hope to go to North Korea one day.



E135/E140/E145/E70/E75/E90/CR2/CR7/CR9/717/732/733/734/735/73G/738/739/752/753/762/772/319/320/321/333
User currently offlineglobalflyer From United States of America, joined Dec 2005, 934 posts, RR: 3
Reply 6, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 9 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Cool report Tom...always nice to see reports on the places that few are allowed to see. Please do provide other TR's on the DPKR flights.

Cheers, Liam!



Landing on every Continent almost on an annual basis!
User currently offlineEL-AL From Israel, joined Oct 2001, 1321 posts, RR: 13
Reply 7, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 9 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Thank you Thomas for that unique report! Domestic flights in North Korea are rare here. And flying 27 years old Tu-154, that's something to write home about.

Quoting SirThomas (Thread starter):
Hello fellow A.Nutters and welcome to my first (of hopefully many) Trip Reports!


Welcome on board!

Quoting SirThomas (Thread starter):
Security
in North Korea isn’t quite up to the standards of other countries... You quite simply walk through the highly dangerous looking metal detectors (that aren’t switched on) with everything still on your person, to the one door that leads to the tarmac... They don't seem to mind if you have a Swiss army knife on your person or if you’re carrying lighters etc… No-one on our group even got patted down.


I don't get it, why doing so?

Quoting BrusselsSouth (Reply 2):
Please write a report about them, especially the domestic ones. And don't hesitate to put some non-aviation pictures if you don't mind.


  

Good job, thx again.
LY



"In Israel, on order to be a realist, one's must believe in miracles" - David Ben Gurion.
User currently offlineThe777Man From United States of America, joined Jul 1999, 6608 posts, RR: 55
Reply 8, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 9 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Very interesting report from very interesting airline and country! Not so reassuring regarding the safety procedures.......

Nice pictures!

The777Man



Need a Boeing 777 Firing Order....Further to fly....CI, MU, LX and LH 777s
User currently offlineSirThomas From UK - England, joined Jul 2009, 193 posts, RR: 0
Reply 9, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 9 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Quoting EL-AL (Reply 7):
I don't get it, why doing so?

Can't say I understand what you mean Sir...?  

As for the safety procedures, I've seen worse 

Tom



Flown On: A319/A320/A321/A332/A333/AT45/734/736/738/744/DH8D/T204/T154/IL62/T134/IL-18/An-24
User currently offlineamax1977 From United States of America, joined Aug 2005, 208 posts, RR: 0
Reply 10, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 8 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Thanks a bunch for sharing, Tom. Wonderful TR!

[Edited 2010-09-11 14:41:23]

User currently offlinercaq From Austria, joined Aug 2009, 98 posts, RR: 0
Reply 11, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 8 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Thanks for sharing. Getting TRs ex/bound FNJ is a rare opportunity here.
The Samjiyon night view does not look bad at all.


User currently offlineBAViscount From United Kingdom, joined Mar 2004, 2338 posts, RR: 4
Reply 12, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 8 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

WOW!! Post more!!

And I hope you didn't take any "Exciters" with you, whatever they might be...the mind boggles!!

Cheers.

Andy.



Ladies & gentlemen this is Captain Tobias Wilcock welcoming you aboard Coconut Airways flight 372 to Bridgetown Barb
User currently offlineClassicLover From Ireland, joined Mar 2004, 4646 posts, RR: 23
Reply 13, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 8 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Quoting SirThomas (Thread starter):
A busy day at FNJ, with at least 3 planes passing through!

Funny!

Quoting SirThomas (Thread starter):
and a few minutes later the opportunity to enjoy the truly bizarre ‘Koryo Burger’ that was probably barking ten minutes before the plane took off…

Hilarious  
Quoting SirThomas (Reply 3):
When I get some free time, I'll try and dig up the other photo's and compile another wee report

Great report! Well written, amusing and very unique! I think you should do your best to do some more reports on your North Korean experiences - you have an avid reader right here. Nice one - and great photos at the bottom too! Thanks so much for taking the time to share this!



I do quite enjoy a spot of flying - more so when it's not in Economy!
User currently offlineBA319-131 From United Kingdom, joined Jan 2001, 8564 posts, RR: 54
Reply 14, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 7 hours ago) and read 32767 times:
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Hi Tom,

Just brilliant, always nice to see something different and the PDRK is something of great interest to most as it's off the beaten track and not a place most have high on their list to visit.

How were things there, did you see the shortages in food etc that we are told they have?

I'd be happy to read more TR's on the regime if you have them.

Rgds

Mark



111,732,3,4,5,7,8,BBJ,741,742,743,744,752,762,763,764,772,77L,773,77W,L15,D10,30,40,AB3,AB6,A312.313,319,320,321,332,333
User currently offlineEC001 From France, joined Jan 2009, 94 posts, RR: 7
Reply 15, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 7 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Hi there,

Very interesting. I always cherish these "exotic" TR's. Plus your writing was great.

Great photos by the way. They really express something.

I'm so curious about your trip to the PDRK that'll check you flickr photostream,

cheers,

orian


User currently offlineSirThomas From UK - England, joined Jul 2009, 193 posts, RR: 0
Reply 16, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 7 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Quoting ClassicLover (Reply 13):
Great report! Well written, amusing and very unique!


Well I'm glad my insanity amuses you sir 

@BA319 - As for the shortages in food, it must be dire... At one stage we thought the WFP Trucks were following us to supply the next days breakfast at each hotel, but after a while, you realise that they really are EVERYWHERE and they just happen to be filling the hotels themselves... UN, Unicef, you name it, they're there ..
The most amusing thing with these are, that if your guide spots them before you do, there's suddenly a mural of the Dear Leader in the opposite direction, or they decide we should take the scenic tour back to the hotel... (This was the same for any military units/encampments, but when they couldn't avoid them you couldn't help but laugh)

I was lucky enough to be able to talk to one French chap from the UN while I was there and from what I can determine, they're having a hell of a time trying to help out as the government just steps in when they ask to go to another town etc..

Now, the main problem that I can see, is by far the electric... My god it's pretty amusing having the power go off when you're eating - it's like musical chairs, but when youre cruising along in your bus and everything just goes black, it really can be a little worrying... Amusing to see the traffic girls try and keep up if the traffic lights die, it's like a sped up version of the macarena!
The only thing we saw that had power left on was Kim Senior's Mausoleum. Mind you I doubt they'd really want him defrosting, it'd be an awful mess 

Tom



Flown On: A319/A320/A321/A332/A333/AT45/734/736/738/744/DH8D/T204/T154/IL62/T134/IL-18/An-24
User currently offlineRyan h From Australia, joined Aug 2001, 1560 posts, RR: 1
Reply 17, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 6 days 3 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Interesting report from North Korea.

With those sorts of photos, I would expect a trip to the gulag.



South Australian Spotter
User currently offlineHowSwedeitis From Sweden, joined Jul 2007, 586 posts, RR: 0
Reply 18, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 5 days 23 hours ago) and read 32767 times:
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A fantastic and fun read! I have always been facinated by the scary and mysterious hermit kingdom that is, "North Korea." Keep up the hilarious reporting! Your next trip should be to Cuba; I'd love to read your comments about the old cars etc. As a matter of fact, you should have your own show. Lets call it, "Commie-Traveling with Sir Thomas!"  

-HSII



Heja Sverige!!
User currently offlineN178UA From United Arab Emirates, joined Jan 2001, 1708 posts, RR: 65
Reply 19, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 5 days 22 hours ago) and read 32767 times:
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Great Great TR !!

Love the banner at the beginning. Are all your flights on FJ charter? Wonder is there any domestic service inside N Korea?
Please post more of your FJ trip report, definity curious to see more .

Q. Is there any problem taking pictures in the plane or on tarmac at airport prior to board (or after landing?)

Sam


User currently offlineairpearl From Malaysia, joined May 2001, 953 posts, RR: 26
Reply 20, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 5 days 16 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Hi Tom

Great start to your trip reporting career. Loved this fascinating report flying into a city with no IATA code.    The pictures are excellent too. Thanks for sharing.

Cheers
airpearl

Quoting SirThomas (Thread starter):
The amusing customs declaration - Why would I want to bring Poison!?

... and what exactly is exciter?


User currently offlineSirThomas From UK - England, joined Jul 2009, 193 posts, RR: 0
Reply 21, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 5 days 16 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

@HowSwedeItIs... I've always wanted to visit Cuba, especially at the moment with all the changes coming into effect and the like, plus I get the opportunity to combine two personal pleasures... visiting Socialist/Countries and fine Cigars!  

As for the title, I'll have to start a series 

I do plan to re-visit the DPRK... It's easier than getting a Chinese Visa!

@N178... All but one of our flights were charter and that that one was to Hamhung. As for domestic services, there are scheduled services, but I believe they only fly if there's demand/party official wants a holiday etc..
You would love the charters though... God knows where they draft in everyone from, there's always someone to fill a few empty seats... We did think it strange they used the 154's on short services though... the back cabin was practically empty.. I guess that was the only plane with fuel left in...

If you want me to send you the timetable for reference let me know!

As for photo's there's no problem at all. You'd expect there to be, as all airports over there double as Military Bases, but you very rarely see anything there (although you occasionally see some MIG-19's crop up).


Thought you might like to see the wood powered trucks Swede  
The WFP Vehicles that were never a mile away... With manual labourers in the background.

Tom

EDIT: I think 'Exciter' refers to drugs or something... Mind you they have a different definition of drugs over there, apparently the Doctor at the Yanggakdo Hotel prescribed Opium Leaves for someone with a bad stomach on a trip before, so...

[Edited 2010-09-12 07:10:32]

[Edited 2010-09-12 07:24:22]


Flown On: A319/A320/A321/A332/A333/AT45/734/736/738/744/DH8D/T204/T154/IL62/T134/IL-18/An-24
User currently offlineabrelosojos From Venezuela, joined May 2005, 5124 posts, RR: 55
Reply 22, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 5 days 15 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Absolutely wonderful report. I think this is the first report on a domestic JS flight - wow. Just amazing. You have captured the essence of DPRK. It was one of my favorite trips last year, and I have so many memories.

Thanks again for sharing this.

BTW, do you know who the man is on the last row of the JCL? On the port side?

Saludos,
A.



Live, and let live.
User currently offlineSirThomas From UK - England, joined Jul 2009, 193 posts, RR: 0
Reply 23, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 5 days 15 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

I remember commenting on your Trip Report earlier in the year Abrelosojos! (Notice the plane reg?)  
That was a splendid read and I had a great time reading it...

The chap in 4B was Mr Lee our compulsory guide, his Wife had just had a baby so he was catching forty winks  
(Not that fathers can visit the maternity hospitals for two weeks after the birth)

The guy right up the front is South Korean which caused a little confusion at times!

Hope to meet you in Korea for a pint of Taedonggang one day!

Tom

[Edited 2010-09-12 07:44:54]


Flown On: A319/A320/A321/A332/A333/AT45/734/736/738/744/DH8D/T204/T154/IL62/T134/IL-18/An-24
User currently offlineabrelosojos From Venezuela, joined May 2005, 5124 posts, RR: 55
Reply 24, posted (4 years 1 month 2 weeks 5 days 15 hours ago) and read 32767 times:

Quoting SirThomas (Reply 23):
I remember commenting on your Trip Report earlier in the year Abrelosojos! (Notice the plane reg?)
That was a splendid read and I had a great time reading it...

= Yes  . I noticed the reg - funny no  ?

Quoting SirThomas (Reply 23):
The chap in 4B was Mr Lee our compulsory guide, his Wife had just had a baby so he was catching forty winks
(Not that fathers can visit the maternity hospitals for two weeks after the birth)

= And this is what is crazy ... that is EXACTLY who I though that was  . Mr. Lee is no ordinary guide - he is also very high up in the DPRK "secret service". Does he still smoke and drink like a fish? And, does he still have that pretty assistant ... or someone new? I must dig up a picture of him now for you. Gotta love how crazy DPRK is ... and our experiences there.

Saludos,
A.



Live, and let live.
25 Post contains images SirThomas : Hehe, Mr Lee was the main man... You can't stray far without him noticing - Not that it stopped me! Can't remember him being a smoker, but Mr Ó - The
26 EricR : This was a very fascinating trip report. I'm sorry if you mentioned this already, but were you there on business or personal? I heard that North Korea
27 Post contains images SirThomas : This trip was purely for pleasure Eric As for the DPRK Tourism... The government have finally realised that the 'American Imperialist Aggressors' actu
28 KaiGywer : Wow, you have certainly got me interested. What is the easiest way to get there as an American? (well, a Norwegian citizen living in the US if it matt
29 dlslc : Great report!! I really enjoyed it, and loved the pictures. I do have a question though, and pardon my ignorance, but I have watched numerous document
30 Post contains images SirThomas : Righty, if you're Norwegian they couldn't care less, just use your Norwegian passport if you have one, and that'll save them having to issue you a se
31 debonair : Fantastic TR, hope more to read soon! Well, standard in communism countries I guess! Last time I flew with IRAN AIR domestic, I was served an "Iran Ai
32 DunaA320 : Hello Sir Tom! Great first report, I loved reading it, espically the pictures. Im always fascinated my these North Korean reports. Thanks Sir Tom, loo
33 Post contains images SirThomas : No, but I did partake in that evenings Canine Starter...
34 WhereToNext : Tom, Wow! Amazing trip report! I'm surprised by the amount of photography you were able to take of Air Koryo and around the airports in North Korea. F
35 Doona : Great T/R! I assume that you need poison to fuel your "killing device". Cheers Mats
36 ODAFZ : Dear Thomas A report out of the ordinary with a touch of english sense of humor: cynical sarcastic, ironic. You are a true son of the fierce Albion (
37 akhmad : Hi SirThomas, That's what I call a flying start of the first trip report, about the rarely covered airline of exotic North Korea. Well done! I like th
38 Post contains images airbuseric : Hi Tom, I loved the report. Fantastic to read about your experience and I think it will be warmly welcomed for the other flight reports as well. I wou
39 Post contains images SirThomas : Well thankyou all for the kind reviews you've given... I am overwhelmed with work at the moment, but I shall get to other report writings at my earlie
40 PlaneHunter : Hi SirThomas, awesome, entertaining report about a rare carrier and a really exotic country. Definitely a different world. When can we expect to see t
41 SurfandSnow : LOL! I wonder how many other opportunities there are to fly to an airport with no code. Probably not very many... Wow, you are a lucky man. I never k
42 usafret : The meal tray on the first set of photos looks about what the US Marshals would serve on "Con Air"- Ugh. Can't imagine what the "cookie" looking item
43 Post contains images LGWflyer : Hello SirThomas! TR's like this are one of the main reason's why I come to A.net. Great job getting on quite a rare airline and sharing your experienc
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