gabrielchew From United Kingdom, joined Aug 2005, 2512 posts, RR: 13 Posted (2 months 1 week 3 days 16 hours ago) and read 8212 times:
h1>
Intro
Hi!
Thanks for clicking on Part 2 of my Zimbabwe report!
I spoke briefly about these flights in Part 1. Basically, from JNB up to Zimbabwe, I could either take a long bus ride, pay handsomely for a non-flexible economy fare on South African or BA franchisee Comair, or use my BA miles on BA (or indeed my LH miles on SA, but these were much worse value). I decide to use my Avios on BA.
Comair operates a number of routes from JNB on an ageing fleet of B737-400s in full BA livery. I booked my outward flight JNB-HRE. Comair availability was very awkward for the return. There were no award seats from Victoria Falls (VFA) to JNB, but there were from the Zambian town of Livingstone (LVI) a few miles away. There were no seats left in economy, so I had to pay double for Club. So, that’s how it worked out!
All the flights for my trip
EI 277 Birmingham BHX – Dublin DUB, A320
EI 208 Dublin DUB – Manchester MAN, A320
EY 22 Manchester MAN – Abu Dhabi AUH, A330
EY 604 Abu Dhabi AUH – Johannesburg JNB, A330
BA 6267 Johannesburg JNB – Harare HRE, B734
BA 6292 Livingstone LVI - Johannesburg JNB, B734
EY 603 Johannesburg JNB – Abu Dhabi, A330
EY 19 Abu Dhabi – London Heathrow LHR, B77W
And with some local cities to help orientate yourself
The Report
With a 19 hour overnight connection, I thought it not worth heading into Jo’burg to try and sightsee, but just to find a decent hotel for the night. I ended up at the very acceptable Airport Game Lodge. Only GBP30 a night with transfers and breakfast.
Comfy room
Nice pool
And the game
SQ overhead
My baggage…cool tag, one for the collection
Allowing plenty of time to check out the JNB lounges, I’m dropped off at the airport around 0930. First stop is the free landside viewing gallery.
Hmm, what’s parked underneath?
Etihad!
SA
Mango
Longhualers enjoying a rest…note the token Air Zim in there
BA just arrived in the sun
It’s baking with the big windows and streaming sun, so I soon make my way the length of the terminal to the Comair desks. Arrivals is in the middle on the basement level
Well, I almost understand the CX logo, them being oneworld (but they have their own separate check in area), but why is KL up there?
After I booked my flight, I tried to preselect my seat (as I can do with CX Gold)….however, my reservation never stuck – it just showed me as sitting in the window behind Club (4A)….ok, this will do. The previous day after arriving from Europe, I had used to SSCI machines to check in…my seat had moved back to row 7, with no option to move forward – all the seats seemed to be occupied. As I was getting my visa on arrival (and I had no idea what the Zimbabwean arrivals procedures would be) I wanted to be off as quicly as possible.
When I got to the desk to drop off my bag, I asked to see if thee were any seats further forward….”no, they’re all full. Row 7 is the furthest forward”. Ok, no problem, bag tagged, and off I went.
Before going through security, I passed another viewing area. Mr O.R.Tambo
FIDS…what a crap system. They only show 1 page, rather than scrolling through the flights for the next 2-3 hours The result? Flights aren’t shown until about an hour before departure, by which time some flights have already started boarding. 1030 is Zimbabwe time, with flights every 10 minutes (to HRE, VFA and BUQ).
Security and immigration are pretty quick, and I’m soon airside. I have a choice of 3, possibly 4 lounges today. I start with the Menzies Sholongolo lounge, which has been voted best Priority Pass lounge in Africa (although what I’ve seen of lounges on the Continent so far don’t set the bar terribly high).
The lounge is pretty nice….at this time of day there’s plenty of space, a good drinks selection, and a variety of hot and cold food, including some nice sushi dishes.
I spend an easy hour inside, before heading to the Bivest Lounge.
CX boarding
I assume this is my plane…well, it’s parked at the right gate at any rate. Not boarding for another hour or so.
The Bidvest lounge is much larger than the Sholongolo, but is rather dreary. The drinks selection is similar, but there’s not much food on offer. I don’t stay long.
A soda and OJ
I’m not sure if I can get into the BA lounge or not. Turns out a) it’s not open, and b) they ask customer to use to Comair lounge anyway.
So, over I go to the SLOW lounge. I ask at the desk again if there are any seats in rows 4-6. “Yes, there are, but only middle seats are left”. So, a new story now. I stick with my row 7 window.
Wow, now, this is a very nice place to hang out for a few hours (and so much better than the generic BA style Galleries lounge). The place is chic and relaxed, with plenty of friendly staff floating around. I wish now that I hadn’t wasted my time in the other 2 lounges now. I’m surprised they even have this lounge here given that there are at most only 5 or so international Comair flights a day. Makes more sense for eligible customers to use the BA Galleries (and open that earlier). Still, I’m glad they haven’t.
The buffet area is set out like a 5* hotel, and everything looks wonderful
The library
And work area
Quiet room
Bathroom (the shower rooms looked great too)
Some comfy seats
Looking into the staff side of the bar
Time to get online
And nearly a good tarmac view
Another Comair…not mine either though
A little choice of refreshments, and a glass of champagne
Ginger Beer…. I think Planehunter would enjoy this version.
And a coffee
With the time ticking, I’m a little concerned that the Harare flight shows no sign of boarding. I go to the front desk, where a new dragon is behind the computer. She calls down to the gate, and then informs me that there was a last minute plane change, so to expect a half hour delay or so. Perfect, I could spend all day in here. I ask again about a seat change. “Let’s see. Well, row 6 is completely empty, but as the final numbers have been done, I can’t move you in the system. I’d suggest just sitting in row 6 – no one else is there”. Hmm, so why were the other staff so reticent to help I wonder? 3 different staff, 3 different stories. Just goes to show, it’s worth asking until you get the answer you are looking for!
Nice long delay on the AMS….some pricey delay compensation for KL I think…EUR 600 per pax?
Finally, at 1220, our ETD, I head to the gate where there is a short line of people having their documents checked.
ZS-OAM for us today, a 23 year old example, previously with Air Europe, Malaysia Airlines, Jerden Bermuda, Dan Air, British Airways (UK) and Air One.
gabrielchew From United Kingdom, joined Aug 2005, 2512 posts, RR: 13 Reply 1, posted (2 months 1 week 3 days 16 hours ago) and read 8305 times:
February 2013
Johannesburg (JNB) – Harare (HRE)
British Airways BA 6267, operated by Comair
Scheduled: 1220-1335 (1h15m)
Actual: 1303-1409 (1h16m)
Boeing 737-4S3
ZS-OAM
Economy (Traveller)
I’m greeted by name with a big smile, and pointed down the aisle. As expected, row 6 is completely empty, so I go with SA)">6F. This old plane is kitted out just like most of the BA 737 fleet from the late 90’s, complete with cocktail tables and cloth seats. The seat is a bit narrow (I can definitely feel my hips!), but quite soft.
Good legroom at the front
No one else in row 6. The load looks to be around 50%, with some 6-7 people in Club.
My guidebook ready to go
The plane is old….and it shows
After a further delay due to missing paperwork, the doors are closed, safety demo done, and we head for the runway.
The safety card is distinctly British
And Highlife is the South African version (i.e. the same as the normal one, with an extra few pages at the front)
Heading for the active
There is some annoying plastic on the windows with little grooves, meaning my zoomed photos come out all fuzzy.
Is this the 24 hour late KL plane?
Off we go, 45 minutes late
Twenty minutes after take off, the catering service is well under way. Drinks first, a G&T and a soda water. I’m delighted to be given a miniature Tanqueray gin…amazing for economy! I believe this is only on request with BA mainline on long-haul Club. You can’t even get it in Club Europe. Maybe it’s a South African thing as the last time I got one of these was on SAA from Bujumbura to Kigali. Shame about the “Chele” water. I mean it tasted ok, but who are they?
Surprise number 2, a choice of two hot dishes. Something vegetarian or ravioli Bolognese.
Taste is pretty good too.
Salad is nice too
The fork is a little on the measly side, losing out to the cucumber
Some nice African clouds
In the welcome aboard spiel, the crew mentioned “and tea and coffee after your meal, time permitting”. I presume that there was insufficient time, as this never materialised. I decided to use the call bell and get myself another G&T instead.
Zimbabwean arrivals forms
I was asked by the friendly cabin manager to complete a survey…with pleasure
Pillows provided on request
All too quickly, the flight was drawing to a close. The cabin was secured, and we began our approach into Harare
What was a smooth landing rapidly because a rather bumpy ride….the tarmac in HRE is not very smooth!
Unlike in LHR, there wasn’t much need of any holding patterns. HRE was deserted other than a sole Air Zimbabwe B732. What once was one of Southern Africa’s busiest airports is now, well, not. Since the demise of Air Zimbabwe a few years ago, there are precious few flights. Most days see flights in barely double figures. Victoria Falls gets maybe 2 flights a day, and Bulawayo maybe 1.
Interesting control tower
Nice empty terminal
I was a bit paranoid on arrival – I didn’t really know what to expect, so didn’t take any photos from hereon in. I power walked past the slow Club passengers, and was the first the get to immigration. I was directed to the visa on arrival desk, where ten minutes (and $55) later, I had a nice Zimbabwean visa, and an entry stamp (from 2 days previously….). My bag was already doing laps on the carousel, so I picked it up, and headed out into arrivals where my aunt was waiting.
Zimbabwe
Ok, so I know that most of you are here for the planes (and feel free to skip the middle bit of this report). I’m sure, however, that most of you will also be at least a little curious about Zimbabwe itself. I had reservations before I went (and everyone I spoke to before I went thought I was mad….”isn’t it really dangerous”?). Well, after spending 2 weeks travelling around, I can assure you the country is safe (well, save for some night-time driving, and wild animals), interesting (lakes, rivers, safari parks, balancing rocks, amazing waterfalls) and perfect for an African Adventure. The people are friendly, and desperate for foreign tourists to come.
Of course it not all a bed of roses. Most Zimbabweans live on the breadline (there’s no social welfare here), and are self-employed. No tourists, no money, no food. Chronic (and almost unbelievable) mismanagement of the country have caused immense problems. Profitable companies have been stripped of resources (cash/equipment/management) and left to rot. Air Zim is a case in point. The country is large, and the roads are bad, and fares into the country are high. It’s impossible for even the worst armchair CEO to not come up with a profitable company (especially having seen the rates for air taxis). And yet, the airline went kaput. I believe now there is a new skeleton schedule linking HRE-JNB, as well as a thrice weekly triangle domestic HRE-BUQ-VFA-HRE route…one way for $397! How can you not make money!?
There’s been no investment in any public works for years meaning bumpy roads and almost no working street lights, even in Harare. Productive farms that once covered the country have gone wild, causing famines in part of the country. And of course, Zimbabwe was home of some of the world’s most impressive inflation (November 2008, inflation was ….. 89,700,000,000,000,000,000,000%. Yikes). Zimbabwe now uses USD (if you do come, make sure to bring a big wodge of clean $1 notes.)
But for the average tourist, you don’t need to concern yourself with any of that. Unless you are lucky enough to have family on hand willing to show you around using their 4x4s, you’ll need to find a reliable company to show you around, and make sure your bank balance is sturdy (it’s not a cheap destination once you get your air taxis and safari lodges booked). Come before everyone else does, and Zim once again establishes herself on the Southern African overland trail.
So, I’ve trawled through the nearly 4,000 photos I took, and selected a sample to show to you:
Wildlife
Birds
Crocs
Elephants
And their diminutive nephews, the elephant shrew
Impala
Lizards
Zebras
And their cousin, the zonkey
And with some wildebeest
Baboons
Rhino
Giraffes
And finally, my favourite animal, hippos
You’ll often see these handy tables showing you what’s been seen recently. Still on my to see list are the cats…lions, cheetahs, leopards.
Africa is well known for her amazing sunsets
Zimbabwe
Up in Lake Kariba, there was plenty of good fishing…a catfish
We spent a wonderful afternoon on the Lake as the sun was going down. It was hard not to catch a fish. The lodge we were staying at cooked them up for starters…tasty!
Prehistoric cave paintings
Balancing Rocks
Water filled caves
And stunning lodges. The most amazing place we stayed was a place called Camp Amalinda, near Bulwayo, in the Matopos National Park. It’s not cheap, but is possibly the most stunning place I’ve even stayed in.
Amazing bathroom with a view over the plains
No glass in the room, so just a mozzie net between you and outside. Perfect for animal watching from bed
Ready for bed
Pool, carved from the natural rock
The bar
Most Zim musuems are pretty crap, lets be honest. One gem is the National Railway Musuem in Bulawayo. If you’re nearby, check it out!
Rhodes’ private carriage
Of course, Zimbabwe’s trump attraction, the Victoria Falls
Ever wondered what a million litres of water a second looked like?
Of course, I couldn’t come here and not take a rather expensive helicopter ride!
That guy got to the front seat before me….grrrr. Still, good views in the back
How awesome is that gorge?! Sadly the water level was too high for white water rafting (the only other thing I really wanted to do)
Back to the flying….
With my 2 weeks in Zim finished, it was time to head back to the UK. As there were no Avios seats left from Victoria Falls (VFA) to JNB, I crossed the bridge and spent my final night in the Zambian town of Livingstone (LVI) from where BA also flies down to JNB. There were no seats left in Y, so I ended up paying a little extra for Club.
Twenty-four hours before the flight, I logged onto BA.com to check in. A few hours previously I’d checked the booking – everything was fine, and I was the only one to have reserved a seat in advance. Worryingly, OCLI was not working. I click onto my booking…..i’m not impressed:
I’m initially worried (“oh no, the flight’s cancelled, I’m going to miss my connection to London”). I’m then relieved (“Fine, I’ve been rebooked, I can make the connection”). I’m then furious (“What? There’s no cancellation. There’s no time change. The only change is that I’m now in economy not business”). What is going on?
The availability shows the flight completely sold out (although curiously there are 9 J seats available?). The earlier SA flight seems busy, but at least with a few empty seats.
I call the BA office in Lusaka. I get through to a bored sounding man. He confirms that I have been downgraded as the Club cabin is now “closed”. No elaboration as to why, or to any compensation. Grrr. I guess I can’t do much from here, so decide to head to the airport early in case there are further issues.
gabrielchew From United Kingdom, joined Aug 2005, 2512 posts, RR: 13 Reply 2, posted (2 months 1 week 3 days 16 hours ago) and read 8279 times:
Against the advice of the friendly hotel owner (“2 hours is too early for the JNB flight…the airport is boring!”), I arrive at LVI at T-2.5 hours. LVI had three scheduled flights that day, a SA flight to JNB, the BA to JNB and a local flight up to Lusaka, all squeezed into a half hour period. As the SA flight was due a little earlier, the single queue to get to the security point before check in has a half hour queue – I’m glad I arrived when I did, as the queue only gets longer. There’s no fast track, so I join the back.
In the queue
Half an hour water, I put my suitcase through the scanner, and then proceed to the BA desks (no Club desk here, join another queue). Twenty minutes later, its my turn. “Hi, I’m in Club to JNB”. There’s a concerning amount of typing going on behind the desk. “Sorry, there’s a problem with your ticket”. After the cancellation/time change/downgrade (or however BA would like to phrase it), my ticket was cancelled, and now I have a reservation, but no ticket number.
Half an hour later, someone comes from a back office with my passport and printout….I now have a ticket. My request for 1A is met with an “OK”, and then “will 1F do?”. Clearly I’m back in Club leaving me even more confused about what was happening behind the scenes.
With my bag tagged, and Club boarding pass issued, I proceed through immigration (no queue) and into the lounge.
Well, this certainly wasn’t a lounge you should make extra time to visit. When I entered, the only vacant seat was an office chair next to the toilet door. The entire lounge was the size of a large sitting room, and crammed with people and mismatched furniture. Thankfully, a few minutes after I arrive, someone makes space on a sofa, so at least I don’t look like I’m peeking through the toilet door.
I spent an hour “enjoying” the lounge. Catering is basic. There is vodka, but no tonic or gin. I go with a Screwdriver, along with the only ice cube left in the tin. Solid catering consists of stale cheese sandwiches, stale crisps and stale popcorn. Yum.
When the SA flight is called, I take a photo of the bar from my seat
Bored, bored, bored. Sadly the BA flight is running a little late, so my stay in the lounge is extended. As there’s no wifi, I occupy myself assessing the other occupants of the lounge. A chavvy looking German couple (I guess they’re richer than they look and have paid $$$ for a Club ticket), an American couple with AA status, a young white couple (the guy looks like a professional athlete or a pop star, so again I think no status, full fare Club), and a couple of African guys in suits (erm, both Club and status? – were they the VVIPs that initially bumped me out of Club?).
When the flight is finally called, I join the long line for the single securing desk (again, no fast track, no priority boarding).
Interesting notice
At last, I’m scanned, and sent on my way, walking over the tarmac. The SA A319 is just taxiing out
March 2013
Livingstone (LVI) – Johannesburg (JNB)
British Airways BA 6292, operated by Comair
Scheduled: 1330-1515 (1h45m)
Actual: 1357-1524 (1h27m)
Boeing 737-436
ZS-OTH, 21 years old, previously with British Airways (UK).
Business (Club)
I’m welcomed aboard by the headmistress lookalike purser, and directed to my seat in row 1. “Sparkling wine, juice or water?”. I go with the sparkling wine. I’m also offered a paper, with the front page decrying the increasing violence in SA.
View out the window….some Wilderness Air charters
And some albinos
I watch as everyone files onto the plane. I notice all the lounge occupants heading to the back. The door finally closes, and I’m the only one in Club. Hurrah! First time I’ve had a premium cabin to myself. Now, why on earth was I downgraded? I’ve emailed BA about it, but 10 days later, I’ve not had a reply yet. What a terrible way to piss off your customers for absolutely no reason (and with no apology).
March’s Highlife
There is a lame excuse from the flight deck about our late push back…no problem, I’ve got a long connection in JNB
The safety demo is done just for me it seems. The lady doing it doesn’t make eye contact.
My legroom. The seats are leather on this plane, and feel much wider than in the non-expanded Y seats
Off we go on runway 10, half an hour late
The terminal. A new terminal is under construction. Hopefully it’ll be more user friendly
Lucky I got an F seat…more views of the Falls. In the local language, the Falls are called Mosi o Tunya, the Smoke that Thunders. I guess you can see why.
Livingstone is about 10 km from the Falls
VFA airport
The curtains are closed….I have Club all to myself! From my conversation with the purser, Y was overbooked on the way out, but on this flight there is 1 empty seat in Y.
Time for some drinks, and nuts
Sadly, despite this being a longer flight than JNB-HRE, there is only a choice of cold meals…either a chicken or vegetarian wrap. I’m not overly impressed. It seems Y has a similar choice (although maybe not on a tray?) plus a third choice of a cereal bar or something.
Oh well, at least these are very tasty
Once i’m done, the purser asks if I would like anything else. As the lounge food had been so terrible, and I had told my stomach to expect some tasty hot food, I was quite unsatisfied, so ask or another wrap. The dessert was left almost intact as I don’t know what it is. They look (and taste) like some sort of cheap breakfast cereal. Why is this a business class dessert?
Clouds
With my 2nd wrap consumed, my tray is removed, and I’m asked if I’d like anything to drink. The Comair bar is quite restrictive compared to that of Club Europe. Other than vodka, whiskey and gin, the choices are either cognac (I think) or Amarula. I’m not a fan of Baileys, but decide to try it
Mm, it’s quite tasty. I like the little string.
Progressing into South African airspace
I quite like the Amarula…I actually get through 4 miniatures before the cabin is secured for landing
A nice selection of languages on the safety card
Downtown Jo’burg
And we’re down. It looks like it’s just rained. This is the middle of the rainy season in Southern Africa. Somehow, I managed to get through 2 weeks with less than 5 minutes of rain. Great for me and my tan, not so good for the crops.
EY cargo…it’s the thing behind that’s on fire
Very long stayers
And daytrippers
I’d love a trip on Air Madagascar (preferably to Madagascar).
We’re given a gate at the domestic pier, so looks like we’ll be bussed somewhere
My seats upon disembarkation
The crew bid me adieu, and I’m let off the plane, down the steps and into the bus. Once the bus is full, we’re driven into the belly of the airport, before being release into the immigration hall.
Just before going to an immigration officer, there is a heat scan (I guess looking for horrible diseases). Since the scare over SARS died down a few years ago, I presumed that these were more for show and employment purposes than anything else. However, today at least, they seemed to be working, and paying attention. Apparently I set off the red alarm. I’m yoinked out of the queue, and escorted over to the health centre. I explained to the lady that I couldn’t be sick. “I’m British you see….and I’ve had a bit to drink”. Turns out the Amarula (and gin and wine and vodka) were both doing my talking, and outing me to the health authorities. The lady grinned, but insisted on taking my temperature. With my extremely plausible story accepted, I’m escorted back to the line, where I’m stamped into the country.
Arrivals
Of course, my bag is already doing the rounds when I get to the carousel
With my bags on the trolley, I head through customs, and upstairs to the Etihad desks. I’ll leave this part here, and tell you all about the Etihad flight home in Part 3.
So, what did I think?
Comair seem like a pleasant little airline. The catering in Y really impressed me. Choice of hot meals? Tanqueray gin? Yes, please! And that SLOW lounge….wonderful! The return flight wasn’t quite so great. Other than then awful pre-flight shenanigans, the Club service on the LVI flight just didn’t seem quite as excellent as in Y on the way out. Still, I’ve been on worse airlines! No trouble flying with them in the future.
Zimbabwe was wonderful. I had a great holiday. If you come, I’m sure you will too.
As always, all comments and questions welcome, and thanks for reading about my latest trip!
Upcoming trips reports:
Of course, the next report will be my Etihad return to London.
Late Jan/early Feb saw me complete my Star Alliance lounge tour of Europe (i.e. do the lounges I want to see before my LH Silver card finally gives way to Blue) with LH, LO & OS routing LHR-DUS-WAW-VIE-LHR. I’m writing this trip up after my African adventure
Easter will herald another inaugural, Cityjet’s new LCY-DRS route, along with a return NUE-LCY.
My Virgin flight up to Manchester for the A.net meet come in April
And now I have Gold staus with FlyingBlue, I thought it time to check out the Skyteam lounges in LHR, CDG and AMS:
FlyFromMEL From Australia, joined Nov 2005, 31 posts, RR: 0 Reply 3, posted (2 months 1 week 3 days 14 hours ago) and read 7845 times:
Thanks for this trip report!
I've been patiently waiting for part 2 ever since I read part 1.
Zimbabwe really intreags me. Nowadays it seems a bit 'off the beaten track' which sort of adds to its appeal. It's a shame though that politics has put the country on a downwood spiral, because it once had so much potential. I have read that Harare once had modern buildings, beautiful tree-lined avenues and a prosperous future. Now it has an unsafe reputation, unstable government, neglected and decaying infrastructure with basic services like healthcare and reliable electricity and water supply's practically non-existant. A shame because it seems a beautiful country blessed with natural wonders.
Being from Australia, I myself have never been there, but have always been interested in Africa and Zimbabwe in particular. It stems back to the time I saw Harare as one of the main african destinations for qantas in their inflight magazine route map. It always to me seemed an unusual destination which sparked my interest.
Since the late 1990's, qantas no longer flys there - and it seems not many airlines do.
I've always been interested in harare airport. I constantly search for trip reports about flying in to harare, but they are so rare (hense me getting excited about your trip reports).
Harare is one airport where it's hard to get information or pictures of. The only pics I've found on the Internet are external ones of that interesting looking control tower. Internal pics of the terminal interior seem practically non existant! (I was hoping you'd have sone of what it looks like inside the airport, but never mind!)
To me, it seems they have upgraded it and modernised it into a decent international standard airport, but it currently handles way less flights than its designed to. Gone are the days when it was a main african hub when British airways and qantas Boeing 747s would frequent it. Now it seems you can practically just fly a handful if B737 flights to johannesburg each day from there.
Does the airport suffer because of this? Is there a reliable airport to hotel shuttle service? Are there tour desks in arrivals? Or is it just dead as a doorknob where you have to hail an overpriced taxi to get anywhere?
It's good to see that they've spent money to seemingly modernise the terminal, but hopefully it is kept that way even with the lack of patronage. Is there signs of more flights there? Does it have the potential of being a major world class international airport again? What are the shops and services like in the airport?
I've read somewhere that KLM has now resumed flights to harare. Seems a positive note - is this advertised much within the airport? It's good that they have a major foreign international airline using it again with a scheduled route to Europe. Hopefully this opens the door for more (I'd love to see a KLM to harare trip report!)
And another question - are there many tourists in harare? Were the people on the flight mainly african locals or foreign visitors? What was your hotel like in harare and where did you stay in the city? Is there sightseeing day trips you can book from hotel front desks where a shuttle bus will puck you up from the lobby with other tourists and takes you places - and is there enough tourist in the city to warrant it and to feel safe?
Sorry for all the questions, but this city and country intereags me, and I doubt I will ever get there!
ZS-SAZ From South Africa, joined Jul 2001, 39 posts, RR: 0 Reply 4, posted (2 months 1 week 3 days 14 hours ago) and read 7721 times:
I've also been looking forward to the second part of this trip report.
Agree with you regarding the SLOW Lounge - it's really fantastic in comparison to many of the lounges I see profiled in these trip reports, which generally look really dreary and bland compared to the glam of the SLOW Lounge. I switched banks about a year ago simply because the account I subscribed to at the new bank gave me free access to SLOWs domestic lounges.
I flew Air Madagascar in 2009 to Antananarivo, and then onwards to Nosy Be. Not the best airline, but Madagascar is absolutely fantastic, and really beautiful.
gabrielchew From United Kingdom, joined Aug 2005, 2512 posts, RR: 13 Reply 5, posted (2 months 1 week 3 days 13 hours ago) and read 7669 times:
Quoting FlyFromMEL (Reply 3): I've been patiently waiting for part 2 ever since I read part 1.
Very nice to hear
Wow, lots of questions! I hope I can help!
Quoting FlyFromMEL (Reply 3): Zimbabwe really intreags me. Nowadays it seems a bit 'off the beaten track' which sort of adds to its appeal. It's a shame though that politics has put the country on a downwood spiral, because it once had so much potential. I have read that Harare once had modern buildings, beautiful tree-lined avenues and a prosperous future. Now it has an unsafe reputation, unstable government, neglected and decaying infrastructure with basic services like healthcare and reliable electricity and water supply's practically non-existant. A shame because it seems a beautiful country blessed with natural wonders.
Well, Harare is still a bustling city. The chronic mismanagement isn't too obvious in the city centre. There are still nice avenues, and tall buildings! And most of the traffic lights work.
Quoting FlyFromMEL (Reply 3): It stems back to the time I saw Harare as one of the main african destinations for qantas in their inflight magazine route map. It always to me seemed an unusual destination which sparked my interest.
i think during apartheid, it saw quite a lot of business as companies didn't operate into JNB. It used to be really popular with tourists. it was the place to go for a safari.
Quoting FlyFromMEL (Reply 3):
Harare is one airport where it's hard to get information or pictures of. The only pics I've found on the Internet are external ones of that interesting looking control tower. Internal pics of the terminal interior seem practically non existant! (I was hoping you'd have sone of what it looks like inside the airport, but never mind!)
Sorry, I was in a bit of a rush, and worried about being arrested. I probably could have taken a few. The terminal looked clean and modernish. Shops and whatnot around.
Quoting FlyFromMEL (Reply 3): Now it seems you can practically just fly a handful if B737 flights to johannesburg each day from there.
Well, ET send some big stuff (including the 787!), and 777/330 from EK and KL.
Quoting FlyFromMEL (Reply 3): Does the airport suffer because of this? Is there a reliable airport to hotel shuttle service? Are there tour desks in arrivals? Or is it just dead as a doorknob where you have to hail an overpriced taxi to get anywhere?
The terminal seemed fairly busy. The country DOES operate sort of normally! No idea about taxis or tour desks.
Quoting FlyFromMEL (Reply 3): It's good to see that they've spent money to seemingly modernise the terminal, but hopefully it is kept that way even with the lack of patronage. Is there signs of more flights there? Does it have the potential of being a major world class international airport again? What are the shops and services like in the airport?
Well, Air Zim is slowly getting its act together, so maybe there'll be more flight from them in the future. I think there were issues with refueling - not sure if that has been resolved or not. I think both EK and KL operate XXX-HRE-LUN-XXX for this reason.
Quoting FlyFromMEL (Reply 3): I've read somewhere that KLM has now resumed flights to harare. Seems a positive note - is this advertised much within the airport? It's good that they have a major foreign international airline using it again with a scheduled route to Europe. Hopefully this opens the door for more (I'd love to see a KLM to harare trip report!)
There were loads of ads for the KL service around Harare (and EK). Hopefully BA will start again soon. Nearly all white Zimbabweans have roots in the UK and go back every year or so. They all bitch about having to go via JNB. Fares are high, so there is money to be made.
Quoting FlyFromMEL (Reply 3): And another question - are there many tourists in harare? Were the people on the flight mainly african locals or foreign visitors? What was your hotel like in harare and where did you stay in the city? Is there sightseeing day trips you can book from hotel front desks where a shuttle bus will puck you up from the lobby with other tourists and takes you places - and is there enough tourist in the city to warrant it and to feel safe?
There were very few tourists from what I saw. Only a few people were also getting a visa on arrival, so I guess the others were Zims. I was staying with my aunt, so didn't see any hotels until Bulawayo (not touristy) and Vic Falls (very touristy). I'm sure hotels can book tours. Zim felt very safe. As far as I know, the only issues in the past have been with farmers being turfed off their land 10 or so years ago. Tourists aren't going to run into issues. My uncle has worked in Africa for the past 20 years, and says he things Harare is one of the three safest cities in Africa. it's certainly a lot safer than touristy South Africa or Kenya.
Quoting ZS-SAZ (Reply 4): I've also been looking forward to the second part of this trip report.
Thanks!
Quoting ZS-SAZ (Reply 4): Agree with you regarding the SLOW Lounge - it's really fantastic in comparison to many of the lounges I see profiled in these trip reports, which generally look really dreary and bland compared to the glam of the SLOW Lounge. I switched banks about a year ago simply because the account I subscribed to at the new bank gave me free access to SLOWs domestic lounges.
Such a shame I'll probably never use it again
Quoting ZS-SAZ (Reply 4): I flew Air Madagascar in 2009 to Antananarivo, and then onwards to Nosy Be. Not the best airline, but Madagascar is absolutely fantastic, and really beautiful.
Ha, I imagine that to be the case. Crap airline, great country!
FlyFromMEL From Australia, joined Nov 2005, 31 posts, RR: 0 Reply 6, posted (2 months 1 week 3 days 12 hours ago) and read 7504 times:
Thanks for the extra info grabiel!
I hope harare and Zimbabwe find their way back onto the tourist trail, and if I ever get to southern Africa I hope to have the opportunity and confidence to give harare a visit!
I'd also love to see victoria falls. I hear that there is a section called 'the devils pool' where you can enter the water and wade right to the edge of the falls! Would be great to experience - if its safe enough that is!!
Quoting FlyFromMEL (Reply 6): I hope harare and Zimbabwe find their way back onto the tourist trail, and if I ever get to southern Africa I hope to have the opportunity and confidence to give harare a visit!
Well, Harare is a city...the true value of Zimbabwe lies outside
Quoting FlyFromMEL (Reply 6): I'd also love to see victoria falls. I hear that there is a section called 'the devils pool' where you can enter the water and wade right to the edge of the falls! Would be great to experience - if its safe enough that is!!
I heard it was called the "Boiling Pot"...either way, sounds like fun. It the photo I took with the rainbow before the bridge
Quoting lychemsa (Reply 7): I was told by my cousin that Zimbabwe is beautiful. How is Harare?
It is. Harare is an African city....don't spend time there, as it's the countryside you want to see
Quoting lychemsa (Reply 7): As to Victoria Falls I understand that some months the falls are dry with little water.
adamspotter From Netherlands, joined Feb 2011, 784 posts, RR: 2 Reply 10, posted (2 months 1 week 3 days 10 hours ago) and read 7274 times:
Hi Gabriel,
Fantastic stuff once again, really enjoyed this report! Comair looks quite nice here although I'm not too impressed with the offerings in Club you got..
Really liked your pictures of Zimbabwe, it looks like a great country
Quoting gabrielchew (Thread starter): The availability shows the flight completely sold out (although curiously there are 9 J seats available?). The earlier SA flight seems busy, but at least with a few empty seats.
Just out of curiosity, what site do you use to check the availability?
The777Man From United States of America, joined Jul 1999, 6088 posts, RR: 56 Reply 12, posted (2 months 1 week 3 days 4 hours ago) and read 6905 times:
Hi Gabriel!
Thanks for a fantastic report with fantastic pictures !
Impressive meal in Y but not so great for C on the return.....
Very nice airport hotel!
The non-aviation pictures are amazing especially from Victoria Falls! Wow! I'll get there someday....
Looking forward to your next report!
The777Man
Need a Boeing 777 Firing Order....Further to fly....GA, T5, CI and LX 777s
Sultanils From Belgium, joined Mar 2010, 1188 posts, RR: 29 Reply 13, posted (2 months 1 week 3 days ago) and read 6693 times:
Hi Gabs!
Very nice report. Zimbabwe is quite off the beaten path (for me at least) but it seems well outfitted for a nice holiday. Too bad about the economics and poverty but it's not the only African country suffering from that unfortunately. Loved the pics of the wildlife! To see all those upclose must be a fantastic experience.
As for Comair, looks quite good actually although there seems to be a discrepancy in service level amongst different flights.
Quoting Sultanils (Reply 13): Zimbabwe is quite off the beaten path (for me at least) but it seems well outfitted for a nice holiday..... Loved the pics of the wildlife! To see all those upclose must be a fantastic experience.
Thanks. yes, it's a great holiday destination
Quoting Sultanils (Reply 13): Too bad about the economics and poverty but it's not the only African country suffering from that unfortunately.
Indeed, plenty of challenges for them. They're holding a referendumk today on the new consitition, so hopefully things will be a bit more settled in the future.
Quoting Sultanils (Reply 13): Can't tell, because it's blue or most likely they haven't got clue
Haha, maybe
Quoting Sultanils (Reply 13): Impressive, I bet you tasted every single item on there?
Oooh, sadly I didn't. There was just too much stuff. And I'd had a good breakfast and this was lounge #3 of the morning!
Quoting Sultanils (Reply 13): Of course you took a nice shower and ticked it off your 'shower in airports' list
I was tempted, but saved the shower until my JNB-AUH-LHR flight.
Quoting Sultanils (Reply 13): By now you must be the proud owner of the wole LP collection, no?
I have a fair few, but this was actually a library book
MSS658 From Belgium, joined Oct 2010, 2212 posts, RR: 14 Reply 17, posted (2 months 1 week 2 days 2 hours ago) and read 5744 times:
Hello Gab
Interesting trip report. I did enjoy reading everything.
I'm quite impressed by the service of Comair, looks a bit better in both cabins then the usual BA routine.
Really enjoyed the Zimbabwe pics as well, Would like to go myself one day
jwhite9185 From United Kingdom, joined May 2007, 722 posts, RR: 0 Reply 21, posted (2 months 1 week 16 hours ago) and read 4917 times:
Hi there Gabriel - very detailed report as usual. So detailed it took longer than my lunch break to read it and had to finish it off at home - hence my rare quoting!
Looks like you had a great time - certainly very different to the standard package holiday on one of the Spanish islands.
Must get out to Africa next year - as by then it'll be the only continent I've not visited - not counting Antarctica.
Quoting gabrielchew (Reply 1): I’m then furious (“What? There’s no cancellation. There’s no time change. The only change is that I’m now in economy not business”). What is going on?
I know that feeling...
Quoting gabrielchew (Reply 2): Sadly, despite this being a longer flight than JNB-HRE, there is only a choice of cold meals…either a chicken or vegetarian wrap. I’m not overly impressed. It seems Y has a similar choice (although maybe not on a tray?) plus a third choice of a cereal bar or something.
Looks better than the last 'Club' meal I was given.
Quoting gabrielchew (Reply 2): I’m yoinked out of the queue, and escorted over to the health centre. I explained to the lady that I couldn’t be sick.
CaptainRed From Germany, joined Oct 2010, 578 posts, RR: 19 Reply 22, posted (2 months 1 week 16 hours ago) and read 4915 times:
Hi Gabriel,
great report here to a quite exotic destinations. Thanks a lot for sharing your experience in Zimbabwe. Also Comair indeed seems to be a nice little airline. It just feels a bit strange to see narrow-body planes in full BA livery in South-Africa ..
Sorry to read about that ticketing/booking trouble on your return flight, but at least in the end everything worked out well.
Quoting gabrielchew (Thread starter): The buffet area is set out like a 5* hotel, and everything looks wonderful
Wow, that definitely looks very nice, as does the whole lounge there. Quite a contrast to the one in Livingstone.
Quoting gabrielchew (Thread starter): I’m sure, however, that most of you will also be at least a little curious about Zimbabwe itself.
Definitely, it is certainly not the most popular tourist destination. But your pictures are truly stunning, great wildlife shots there. And I also like that lodge with the rocky rooms, that must have been quite an experience to spend a night there.
Quoting gabrielchew (Thread starter): Of course, I couldn’t come here and not take a rather expensive helicopter ride!
Yes, I would have done that as well, no matter how much it costs. It is a once-a-lifetime experience and for sure a great way to see the falls from a helicopter.
capicua From Venezuela, joined Apr 2011, 49 posts, RR: 0 Reply 23, posted (2 months 1 week 15 hours ago) and read 4850 times:
Hi Gabriel,
Thanks for this 2nd installment of your report on your travels to Southern Africa and thanks for sharing the pictures with us. Nice wildlife photos, and that lodges' bar rocks - literally!
gabrielchew From United Kingdom, joined Aug 2005, 2512 posts, RR: 13 Reply 24, posted (2 months 1 week 12 hours ago) and read 4781 times:
Thanks for all the comments!
Quoting jwhite9185 (Reply 21): So detailed it took longer than my lunch break to read it and had to finish it off at home - hence my rare quoting!
Ha, yes, it was quite long. The 3rd part will be a bit shorter.
Quoting jwhite9185 (Reply 21): Looks like you had a great time - certainly very different to the standard package holiday on one of the Spanish islands.
Yes, I had a great time. Certainly beats Spain!
Quoting jwhite9185 (Reply 21): Must get out to Africa next year - as by then it'll be the only continent I've not visited - not counting Antarctica.
Do it!
Quoting jwhite9185 (Reply 21): What happens if you were - solitary confinement?
Oh, no idea....hopefully they'd just deport me!
Quoting CaptainRed (Reply 22):
great report here to a quite exotic destinations
Thanks!
Quoting CaptainRed (Reply 22): Thanks a lot for sharing your experience in Zimbabwe.
No problem
Quoting CaptainRed (Reply 22): It just feels a bit strange to see narrow-body planes in full BA livery in South-Africa ..
Ha, you get used to it! Was a bit odd boarding a BA 737 in Zambia...
Quoting CaptainRed (Reply 22): Wow, that definitely looks very nice, as does the whole lounge there. Quite a contrast to the one in Livingstone.
Yes, quite the contrast
Quoting CaptainRed (Reply 22): And I also like that lodge with the rocky rooms, that must have been quite an experience to spend a night there.
Yup, truly amazing that night
Quoting CaptainRed (Reply 22): Yes, I would have done that as well, no matter how much it costs. It is a once-a-lifetime experience and for sure a great way to see the falls from a helicopter.
I wanted to do a longer flight, but there were no other takers, so had to settle for the shorter more popular one
Quoting capicua (Reply 23):
Thanks for this 2nd installment of your report on your travels to Southern Africa and thanks for sharing the pictures with us.
Glad you liked it!
Quoting capicua (Reply 23): Nice wildlife photos, and that lodges' bar rocks - literally!
haha, I guess it does!
Quoting capicua (Reply 23): I believe for some people out there these old planes will become part of the "must fly on it before they're gone"-list rather sooner than later.
True
Quoting capicua (Reply 23): That Y meal looks pretty decent indeed. And you were treated to Tanqueray, not your common Gordon's.
25 PlaneHunter: Hi Gabriel, very enjoyable part II of your series with excellent insights into Zimbabwe. The wildlife and nature pictures are stunning! I agree with y
26 gabrielchew: Thanks Udo Thank you Really? What route? Yes, was a bit of a hassle, but worked out ok in the end I thijnk it's the best ginger ale I've tried Can't
27 roberts87: Amazing report Gabriel! The pictures from Zimbabwe looks stunning, especially those of the Falls. Thank for taking and time to write it all up!
28 deltamartin: Hello Gabriel! Nice report as usual! Good to see some pictures from Zimbabwe, sure looks spectacular. Comair seems very nice, especially as you said o
29 ba319-131: Hi Gabriel, I've been reading this with a large G&T, makes for good reading with a nice drink, I'm sure you would approve - Good man! - That's ver
30 gabrielchew: Thanks for all the comments guys! Thanks Robert! Yeah, it's quite the country No problem Thanks Yes, very nice place to visit Yes, the hassle was a ha
31 eastafspot: Hey Gabriel i can finally read and reply to this splendid TR, as usual! i can not agree more about the like-a-sauna observation deck in JNB Nice for y
32 gabrielchew: Thanks Leonard! Yeah, it gets relaly hot up there! Depends on the time of day. I've not flown enough to be able to compare the two products really. I
33 planiac787: Great trip report gabriel! I think BA did a pretty neat job in getting you from Point A to B... The pictures, specially of the hotel was amazing.. I h
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From my conversation with the purser, Y was overbooked on the way out, but on this flight there is 1 empty seat in Y.
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