davejwatts
Posts: 41
Joined: Mon Dec 12, 2005 9:11 pm

300D And 75-300mm Is Help

Tue Dec 20, 2005 6:55 pm

I am using 300D with a 75-300mm IS lens, however I have been having a few problems with it as some of the shots are blurry, it may focus on the front of the aircraft but the back is blurred and some are not of a brilliant quality. I use it on apature priority about F8 and change the ISO setting depending on the conditions. If anybody could help with getting the most from my lens it would be really appreciated!
 
sulman
Posts: 1963
Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2004 5:09 am

RE: 300D And 75-300mm Is Help

Tue Dec 20, 2005 7:06 pm

Dave,

Got any examples? Are these early efforts with the lens? What focal length are you shooting at? It can take a bit of time to get used long lenses, and to develop an understanding of the strengths and weaknesses of your setup.

I'm surprised your seeing DOF problems at F8, though it's not impossible. More likely you're seeing some sharpness issues on the edges of the image, which can happen. It's a good lens, keep trying and you'll get the hang of it.


James
It takes a big man to admit they are wrong, and I am not a big man.
 
oly720man
Posts: 5760
Joined: Fri May 21, 2004 7:13 am

RE: 300D And 75-300mm Is Help

Tue Dec 20, 2005 7:08 pm

Like all things it's practice, practice, practice.

Depending on the aircraft and its distance from you the depth of field at F8 may not cover the whole aircraft so it may not all be in focus.

If you're going to change the ISO to keep at F8 you will find that it will get more grainy at higher ISO.

If you're taking photos at this time of year, there is not long in the day when it'll be really bright enough to get a high shutter speed to freeze any action and stop motion blur when at F8. The usual rule of thumb is that the shutter speed must be less than 1/focal length so at 300mm you're going to have to use 1/500 or 1/1000 sec to get decent photos and avoid camera shake. If you're looking up into the sky you may only be able to get 1/640 or 1/800 at F8 (well I was yesterday with a 400mm lens) so looking at aircraft close to the ground it will be darker so the shutter speed will be lower.

A tripod or monopod may help keep the camera steadier.
wheat and dairy can screw up your brain
 
 
viv
Posts: 2953
Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 5:17 pm

RE: 300D And 75-300mm Is Help

Tue Dec 20, 2005 7:22 pm

A higher ISO speed means more grain. Try to keep the ISO at not more than 200. And f8 is not a holy grail, you can go to 1 or 2 stops bigger in aperture without a noticeable loss in sharpness.

For flying aircraft, I use shutter-priority.
Nikon D700, Nikkor 80-400, Fuji X Pro 1, Fujinon 35 f/1.4, Fujinon 18 f/2
 
sulman
Posts: 1963
Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2004 5:09 am

RE: 300D And 75-300mm Is Help

Tue Dec 20, 2005 7:24 pm

Dave,

The first looks like a tough shot, but it's not bad. Some bright, low sun and I think you'd have had that.

Second has no quality issues, but the lighting's not good - very dim underneath.

Third looks backlit but I suspect your camera's metered off the sky, so the subject looks subdued and dim - not alot you can do.

Some good conditions and you'll find life alot easier.


James
It takes a big man to admit they are wrong, and I am not a big man.
 
Psych
Posts: 2944
Joined: Tue Nov 16, 2004 1:17 am

RE: 300D And 75-300mm Is Help

Tue Dec 20, 2005 10:04 pm

Hello Dave,

Have a look at my photos here. They are all taken with this same body/lens combination that you are using.

I would be very happy to discuss issues with you in more depth. Feel free to drop me an email.

All the best.

Paul
 
AdamWright
Posts: 602
Joined: Fri Nov 05, 2004 2:58 pm

RE: 300D And 75-300mm Is Help

Wed Dec 21, 2005 12:20 pm

I had the same problem. The front of the aircraft would be in focus but the back would be slightly blurry...

-Adam
 
andrewuber
Posts: 2142
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2003 10:45 am

RE: 300D And 75-300mm Is Help

Wed Dec 21, 2005 1:33 pm

Dave -

I had that same camera / lens combination, and found that the F stop "sweet spot" is in the F8 and F9 range. Try shooting in M mode, set your aperature to F8 or F9 (as long as it's a fairly bright day outside), and adjust the shutter speed instead of ISO. The lens will produce some good images - and the entire aircraft should be in focus. Leave the IS switch "ON" and you can get sharp images all the way down to the 1/200th range. In daylight conditions - always shoot at ISO 100. 200 and above and you'll get quite a bit of grain out of the Canon Digital Rebel.

Here is a shot taken at ISO 100, in gloomy conditions, at a slow shutter speed (1/100th I believe). With IS turned on, it kept the image nice and sharp.

View Large View Medium
Click here for bigger photo!

Photo © Freight-Dawg - Airside Photography



Another example of the depth of field at F8:

View Large View Medium
Click here for bigger photo!

Photo © Freight-Dawg - Airside Photography



Far more importantly - have a look at your photos. In order to get them accepted, not only does the image quality have to be good - but the images must be centered and level. The three shots you posted are good starts - but you need to crop the shots to make them more centered - and ALWAYS level a shot (if there is some ground reference in it).

Another thing I'd suggest is shooting in RAW. If you can get a good RAW editor (such as Capture One - it's easy to use), you can do so much more with your images during processing - it's incredible. You can salvage dark or overexposed shots - and sometimes even soft photos.

If you would like further help, you can e-mail me through one of my photos or just ask here on the forum!

Drew  wave 
I'd rather shoot BAD_MOTIVE
 
flyfisher1976
Posts: 777
Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2005 1:08 pm

RE: 300D And 75-300mm Is Help

Wed Dec 21, 2005 7:13 pm

I had this lens and camera combo before I bought my xt and 100-400. When i first started out I had the same problem...see this thread here:

http://www.airliners.net/discussions...ation_photography/read.main/167665

As it turned out, I didn't have my focus point selected correctly. It was set so that the camera chose the best focus point automatically. This resulted in it randomly focusing on the tail or nose instead of the center of the frame. You may need to adjust the focus point so the center red led is selected.

I don't think this is an apeture or iso problem.

[Edited 2005-12-21 11:14:17]

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