Hi again Frippe.
I would suggest that you give one pass of USM
with settings of 500%, 0.2 and 0, for the whole photo. I often find that with a close up like this the photo can 'take' another USM
pass of somewhere around 150%, 0.2 and 0. An alternative that I often use is to stick with the initial pass, and then use the sharpening tool to selectively add a bit of extra sharpening where the photo needs it.
In both your examples above I think the screeners got it right.
As before, if you would like to see an alternate edit, feel free to drop me a line again.
All the best.