I personally use an Olympus SP
-560UZ, which is an older version of the SP590. It would be difficult, but not impossible to get good shots with this camera. I only have two photos on A.net, and probably a few more on my computer yet to be processed. One of the main issues I have with this camera is the focus. The autofocus is horrendous and the manual focus is such a pain the backside its essentially unusable too. But if the photos do end up in focus, then to be honest quite a good number of them might be usable. To be honest, the post-processing will be the key.
Now I'll show you my two photos:
Now both were essentially taken from the same location. Lighting is key here, as you don't want the ISO to be too high (though anywhere under 640 should be usable with good post-processing). Now, if you have a good photo, this is my usual post-proessing process.
1. Open photo
2. Level and crop. If the image is of good quality, do a tight crop, if it isn't that good, leave a bit of space on both sides. It then means less pixels for the aircraft, meaning less visible flaws.
3. Contrast/levels. the SP560 has a tendency to make the photos very misty, I don't know if thats the case with the 590. Adjust colour and everything.
4. For ISO 400 and above shots, I do a bit of noise reduction here, before resizing. (use "Reduce Noise", strength 1-2, preserve details 0% and colour noise 0%). For lower ISO shots, omit this step.
5. Sharpen small details. One of the main distinguishing features between DSLR and bridge photos is that the minor details aren't as strong in a bridge than a DSLR. I try to compensate by doing some manual sharpening in the tiny detailed parts, such as any writing on the aircraft (but not the reg), logos, visible pitot tubes, lights etc.
6. Remove chromatic noise/purple fringing- On the 560 the pruple fringing is very heavy, and also to a lesser extent the green fringing. Remove them by selecting the affected area, then "Reduce colour noise- 100%" in the "Remove Noise" tool. Repeat for each affected section. They should look a lot more normaler now
7. Resize. 1024x683 is ideal, nothing bigger than that.
8. Magic Wand to select the sky. This is easy, set tolerance to about 12-15, and just hold shift and select the entire sky.
9. Select Inverse
10. Sharpen- this is my second round of sharpening, where I do the entire aircraft instead of just the small details. I use amount 50-120% (use your discretion here), 0.3px and threshold 0. This boosts the overall sharpness, but should still be slightly soft.
11. Reduce noise. Not necessary 100% of the time, but go to "Reduce Noise", then use strength 10, preserve details anywhere bwteen 15-30%. It will remove quite a bit of the noise.
12. My third and final round of sharpening, I use 100-300%, 0.2px. This just sharpens the very outer edges, giving it a crisp look. This is the final touch of sharpening, and after this, your photo should be ready to go.
13. Sometimes I like to some other minor edits too. Sydney's main spotting area is near the beach so sometimes if the sea colour is too strong I milden it a bit. Perhaps do a final touch of sharpening on the gear, and any other parts that are normally soft. In the end, your photo should be literally picture perfect.
It's a long process, sometimes taking over 20 minutes per photo depending on how picky I am, but tthe end result will be a lot more presentable and a lot more DSLR-like. Good luck!