I can't help you with your Photoshop question, however; I can tell you this; not all "perspective control" (or PC
) lenses are "tilt/shift"; Some are just "shift" lenses. I have a 35 mm Nikkor "shift" lens; First of all, you'll find that all PC
lenses are manual focus, manual aperture; the ones that "shift" only are designed to reduce (or eliminate) the problem of anything (such tall buildings) which always seem to "come to a point at the top" anytime the optical axis of the lens is tilted up, to get the whole building in the frame; the front half of the lens is joined to the rear half by a dovetail mechanical connection; there is a large knob on the side, when turned, the front half of the lens starts "shifting" sideways, or "up"; at it's maximum "shift", the two halves of the lens "shift" 11 mm, however, the optical axis of both halves remain parallel to one another; a "tilt/shift lens also does this, however the front half of the lens ALSO "tilts" it's optical axis from side to side, ( in addition to being "shifted" from bottom to top. This movement on two axis is to give a small format camera the same "flexibility" of a large format view camera. Obviously, adding the movement in "tilt" greatly increases the mechanical complexity of the lens, (and also cause it to become much more expensive.)
Here's the "good news" about PC
lenses in general; a lot of people buy them new, expecting all sorts of "miracles" from them; they really do things that can't be done with a regular lens, but because of their complexity, they can't be made to auto focus, and of course the aperture must be manually set as well; because of all this, a lot of people who buy them tend to seldom use them, and this causes many PC
lenses to end up on places such as eBay, and many are still in "like new" condition. The one I have looks just as it did when it first came out of the box new, and still "works" like it did when it was new; ( and I didn't pay anything like $2,000 for it ! )
When I bought the thing, I was using it with my F5 film body; it gets very expensive "experimenting" when you have $15 to $18 tied up in every 36 exposures; obviously, it works exactly the same on a digital body, ( except for the crop-factor of a DX body) I use it much more now that I'm using a digital body most of the time. I use it mainly when photographing buildings, and interiors of buildings, and for this it works beautifully.
Stupidity: Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result; Albert Einstein