Well, I took a Cubana flight from Nassau, Bahamas, to Havana, back in 1996, but it was on a smaller plane, I think. I don't recall what it was, think it was a Tupolev (any ideas?) - basically, it was a commie knock-off of a 727. Anyway, the flight was viciously late, as could be expected, and my mates and I spent a while in the airport bar knocking back cans of Kalik beer. Finally we got on, in a weird mad dash sort of scrum that passed for a boarding process, and we had seats in about the 8th or 9th row, I think. Anyway, one of my friends started smoking, but turned to a Cuban pilot or airline official who was deadheading or something in the row behind us and asked if it was the smoking section, to which the guy responded, "Well, it is now! HAHAHA!"
But all was not completely rosy; upon landing, my luggage never made it off the plane, or at least never made it to me. So don't check any luggage if at all possible. And if your'e in Havana and see a Cuban wearing a linen JCrew sportcoat, give him a beating for me!