Hello
With summer in the UK we are now starting to get some better weather to take photographs, however with better weather comes Heat Haze. Over the past month or so I have had many photo's rejected because of Heat Haze, however I am struggling to fine any on most of my photos such as the example below.
https://www.airliners.net/addphotos/r...038.988ly-ven_edit_1200-0041-3.jpg
Can anyone please shed some light on this rejection ad tips to avoid Heat Haze. I have just done a 2 day spotting trip to manchester were the weather was 25 degreese ad some Heat Haze, does this mean all my shots are worthless?
Here is an examply of a Manchester shot.
https://www.airliners.net/addphotos/b...65059945.3968dsc_0031_d-aipb-2.jpg
Many thanks
Moderators: richierich, ua900, PanAm_DC10, hOMSaR
RE: Heat Haze
Neither example looks especially bad but heat-haze is a big problem at the temperatures we're seeing this week. If you look at the top of the fuselage on the TCX, you can see the effects of haze; there is also evidence of softness and oversharpening to compensate, particularly at the front of the aircraft, near the nose. This is very often how haze manifests itself.
I don't bother with MAN in the mornings after the end of April, and even in April I tend to come away before the haze kicks up at around 0900. MAN is much better summer evenings, north-side after about 1830 (when the haze has died down). Plenty of spots where you can get close enough to eliminate any trace of haze.
Karl
I don't bother with MAN in the mornings after the end of April, and even in April I tend to come away before the haze kicks up at around 0900. MAN is much better summer evenings, north-side after about 1830 (when the haze has died down). Plenty of spots where you can get close enough to eliminate any trace of haze.
Karl
RE: Heat Haze
Thanks for the reply. I have been to Manchester a few times now as Newcastle is my local. I have never had any problems until around this january, i am lucky if i get 1 accepted in every 50. I also get photos pulled on softness and too sharp, however if i apply any more sharpness it becomes jaggy.
I have never knowen it to be sooooooo hard to get them accepted.
Many thanks
Posted on my tablet so spellings may be off
I have never knowen it to be sooooooo hard to get them accepted.
Many thanks
Posted on my tablet so spellings may be off
RE: Heat Haze
I won't comment on the site's acceptance criteria but I will say that the light you've shot in is not premium. Heat-haze at MAN typically starts towards the back end of February, and subsides by late October/early November (depending on which spots you choose to shoot from and when, of course). Often it's little to do with temperatures but the height of the sun - in Dec/Jan, when the sun barely gets above the horizon, it isn't powerful enough to warm the ground to a point where haze can be problematic. Some of the worst haze tends to come in late March/April, when an increasingly higher sun - coupled with a low ground temperature - results in a greater variance between air layers.
I've heard a lot of stories about heat-haze, and at what temperature it starts. It's mostly nonsense. There is only one successful way to avoid heat-haze, and that's to position yourself as close to the aircraft as possible. Luckily at MAN, there are a number of good spots very close to the action.
I've heard a lot of stories about heat-haze, and at what temperature it starts. It's mostly nonsense. There is only one successful way to avoid heat-haze, and that's to position yourself as close to the aircraft as possible. Luckily at MAN, there are a number of good spots very close to the action.
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- winterlight
- Posts: 1432
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RE: Heat Haze
I would associate winter with better weather for photography.
RE: Heat Haze
| Quoting winterlight (Reply 4): I would associate winter with better weather for photography. |
Generally speaking, yes, but at the end of the day heat haze happens when layers of air are at different temperatures (and therefore densities), causing refraction. Having shot in the Himalayas in the dead of winter, where one would think there's barely enough air for refraction to be an issue at all, I can assure you that heat haze sometimes shows up when and where you least expect...!
Cheers
A
RE: Heat Haze
Summer light very early mornings and late evenings can be just as good as winter light, providing you can get close enough to your subject for haze not to become an issue. I am lucky in that I live only a few miles south of MAN, which offers some of the best close-up photography of airliners not just in the UK, but arguably the world.
Whether it's summer or winter, getting as close as you possibly can to the action is about the only way to eliminate (or at worst reduce) heat-haze. Another trick is to try and get some elevation, although you'll still need to be fairly close to your subject. In summer, there's little point in shooting aircraft just above or on the ground, unless they are close enough to require wide-angle (a 320 on the deck at 30mm or under shouldn't show any signs of haze, providing it's free of jet-blast or APU exhaust).
You really do have to be surprisingly close to avoid haze; even at the 23L mound at MAN - where a 320 requires about 60mm - you'll begin to see haze in June after about 0800. The RVP is about the best place, because you are ridiculously close, and the mounds give you some decent elevation. The downside, of course, is that the north side is only good for the light between early March and early October.
Karl
Whether it's summer or winter, getting as close as you possibly can to the action is about the only way to eliminate (or at worst reduce) heat-haze. Another trick is to try and get some elevation, although you'll still need to be fairly close to your subject. In summer, there's little point in shooting aircraft just above or on the ground, unless they are close enough to require wide-angle (a 320 on the deck at 30mm or under shouldn't show any signs of haze, providing it's free of jet-blast or APU exhaust).
You really do have to be surprisingly close to avoid haze; even at the 23L mound at MAN - where a 320 requires about 60mm - you'll begin to see haze in June after about 0800. The RVP is about the best place, because you are ridiculously close, and the mounds give you some decent elevation. The downside, of course, is that the north side is only good for the light between early March and early October.
Karl
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- Photomadmat
- Posts: 1
- Joined:
RE: Heat Haze
Heat haze is a sad reality of aviation photography. I was recently at Manchester using a 150-600 and found the heat haze made me lose about 70% of my images from that day.
This is the worst of mine from that day:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/26741850153/in/photostream/
This is the worst of mine from that day:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/26741850153/in/photostream/
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- kulverstukas
- Posts: 1101
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RE: Heat Haze
Another trick (if you can't be closer or shoot in winter) is to use as slow shutter speed as possible.
RE: Heat Haze
| Quoting kulverstukas (Reply 8): Another trick (if you can't be closer or shoot in winter) is to use as slow shutter speed as possible. |
For stationary shots this can be slightly problematic, as it usually results in fuzzy edges, but if you're good at panning, this is solid advice for aircraft in motion. Of course, it doesn't always work, particularly in the worst heat haze conditions.
Cheers
Angad
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