Moderators: richierich, ua900, PanAm_DC10, hOMSaR
Quoting 777LR (Thread starter): I think most of the rejections I'm getting now is heat haze / soft / oversharpened https://www.airliners.net/addphotos/r...09454778.2361aa_762_lax_200usm.jpg This one was rejected for being soft and blurry. I don't really get why though. More sharpening will just make it oversharpened. Heres my edit: https://www.airliners.net/addphotos/b...m.jpg |
Quoting 777LR (Thread starter): This one is rejected for heat haze/quality/soft https://www.airliners.net/addphotos/r...930.7556airtahitinui_a343_lax2.jpg I'm surprised about this one b/c I thought it was pretty decent. I guess I lost my feel for editing |
Quoting 777LR (Thread starter): https://www.airliners.net/addphotos/r...11_a1309538659.6703sqa345_lax2.jpg The SQ A345 was rejected for oversharpened Heres my new edit: (hope it's not soft now) https://www.airliners.net/addphotos/b...1.jpg |
Quoting gonzalu (Reply 1): Hawaiian is back-lit United is back lit and poor quality/heat/distortion/distance? |
Quoting 777LR (Thread starter): This one was rejected for being soft and blurry. |
Quoting 777LR (Thread starter): This one is rejected for heat haze/quality/soft |
Quoting 777LR (Thread starter): The Korean Air 777 got rejected for that it needs a little more contrast. I still don't get how to tell contrast, so any help on that will be great |
Quoting 777LR (Thread starter): The SQ A345 was rejected for oversharpened Heres my new edit: (hope it's not soft now) |
Quoting 777LR (Thread starter): Pre - Screening : Lastly here's some new photos I uploaded. Some help with these would be great too |
Quoting gonzalu (Reply 1): Hawaiian is back-lit United is back lit and poor quality/heat/distortion/distance? |
Quoting dlowwa (Reply 3): I see images with worse heat haze every day, but it is somewhat noticeable in yours. |
Quoting dlowwa (Reply 3): Does seem to be some minor blur, but it could just be the way in which you've processed the image. If there is no blur on the original, try another edit and you might get better results. I wouldn't just throw on another layer of sharpening as you seem to have done, you'll probably need to start again from scratch. |
Quoting dlowwa (Reply 3): Need to be a bit more selective in your sharpening. It seems you're just applying blanket sharpening to the whole image/aircraft. Certain areas will get oversharpened easily (titles & cheat line on the SQ for example), while others will take an extra pass before they lose the soft look (gear, etc...). I'm not sure you've got the balance right on this one, so next time try to work on that. |
Quoting 777LR (Reply 4): Should I go for appeal or not? |
Quoting 777LR (Reply 4): Yeah, for me that's a problem. I have a hard time telling whether the airplane is soft or oversharpened in certain parts. |
Quoting 777LR (Reply 4): Also I think a big problem I'm having is that I select the entire background and then select inverse and apply USM to the entire plane. What USM parameters do you guys use. I use 200%, 0.2, 0 on Photoshop Elements |
Quoting 777LR (Reply 4): Yeah, for me that's a problem. I have a hard time telling whether the airplane is soft or oversharpened in certain parts. |
Quoting dlowwa (Reply 5): |
Quoting dlowwa (Reply 5): If you want, I can take a look at the original of the AA and tell you if I think it's worth another edit. |
Quoting vikkyvik (Reply 6): For shots against a blue sky or other un-detailed background, I do a similar thing: 1.) Select sky (may take a bunch of clicks). 2.) Select inverse. 3.) Expand selection by 1 or 2 pixels. 4.) Use the polygonal lasso tool to select any areas of the airplane that aren't already selected, if they exist. 5.) One pass of USM on the whole airplane (usually something like 70-80%, 0.3, 0). 6.) New duplicate layer. 7.) Expand the selection by 1 pixel. 8.) Another pass of USM on the whole airplane until the softer areas are acceptably sharp (usually 60-80%, 0.3, 0). 9.) Use eraser to erase oversharpened areas and noise if necessary. 10.) Flatten image. |
Quoting gonzalu (Reply 7): I have a better feeling for it (oversharpening) so I tend to get soft more than not because I just don;t like overdoing it. |
Quoting gonzalu (Reply 7): When you get it right, it just looks right. I have been trying to apply the art of "Does IT Look Right?" and have had much more success with centering and sharpening using those basic rules. |
Quoting 777LR (Reply 8): Sweet, I'll try that next time I edit. Two questions though, where do you select the polygonal lasso tool on Photoshop? Not sure if Elements 9 has it because I never saw it. So you basically do two passes of USM and then use eraser, not doing selective sharpening on the aircraft? I always feel that the eraser will blur the picture. |
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Quoting 777LR (Reply 8): I always feel that the eraser will blur the picture. |
Quoting dumbell2424 (Reply 9): Here it is in regular Photoshop, hope it can help |
Quoting vikkyvik (Reply 10): |
Quoting 777LR (Reply 11): Got it, I'm just not used to making new layers, I usually just edit directly (background) |
Quoting gonzalu (Reply 16): |
Quoting gonzalu (Reply 14): Typically you want to paint in the mask in white or black. Just remember that black hides and white reveals... anything between black and white (the grays) is a fade ... so full white reveals 100% of the layer and BLACK hides 100% of the layer. 50% gray will reveal 50 percent of the layer... IF it is not clear, just ask... but do practice on a dummy image or even on real images, just don't save... |
Quoting vikkyvik (Reply 17): The key to this all though (for me), is first sharpening the image as much as it can handle without being oversharpened anywhere. Then any sharpening beyond that is done on a duplicate layer. This way, I ensure that when I erase part of the duplicate layer, the underlying layer isn't too soft. |
Quoting 777LR (Reply 18): Dang this is a lot more complicated than the stuff I used to do (I follow the a.net photoshop editing guide), but I'll follow the step by step instructions you typed on reply 6 this weekend. |
Quoting 777LR (Reply 18): Dang this is a lot more complicated than the stuff I used to do (I follow the a.net photoshop editing guide), but I'll follow the step by step instructions you typed on reply 6 this weekend. |
Quoting dlowwa (Reply 19): I was going to say... if you have to spend more than 5-10 minutes editing an image, you're spending too long. |
Quoting dlowwa (Reply 19): Kevin, as I mentioned after seeing the originals, your images tend to be pretty badly heat hazed, which no amount of editing is going to fix. |
Quoting vikkyvik (Reply 20): That's about how long they typically take me, though sometimes I'll sit there for a few minutes agonizing over whether an airplane is actually sharp or not. But most of those steps I wrote above are incredibly quick. |
Quoting vikkyvik (Reply 20): My recent shots from the In'n'Out were/are ridiculously easy to edit, as they were mostly between 100 and 200mm focal length. When I start getting out to 240-260mm, although the shots are usable, they take more time. |
Quoting dlowwa (Reply 19): Start with a good, clean image that needs a minimal amount of editing. |
Quoting dlowwa (Reply 19): I was going to say... if you have to spend more than 5-10 minutes editing an image, you're spending too long. |
Quoting zbot69 (Reply 22): . If I could learn to apply masks properly in seconds flat, yeah, that would definitely make life a bit easier. |